88IntegraLS

Some calculator on a Mustang site told me that if I had a 2400 lb. car (with driver in it) with 180 hp. to the wheels, I could run 13.8ish.

BlackRx7

well that is an RX7 Calc!

RETed

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dvcn
In the 'New Drag Times Thread' thread I admit to somewhere between 200-210hp at the flywheel. This is from a certified scale reading of 2420lbs and reverse calculating hp. The actual number I come up with is 205hp at the flywheel and that equates to around 175hp at the rear wheels. I really don't feel that these are unreasonable numbers.[/.QUOTE]
No, those are not unreasonable power numbers.&nbsp I'd like to see an FC3S chassis trip the scales under 2500# in "race trim"?

I have never seen proof of that myself.

I did not own the car, so I can't comment on that.

As far as I know, it was running a Kouki auto ECU, "full exhaust" (which includes header), cone intake, CDI box, lightened flywheel.

Agreed.


-Ted

rx7_ragtop

There's more to be had in your 60' time. I get close to that in my 300# 'vert with no LSD.

If you have decent tires (yes just decent street tires) try dropping your tire pressure to about 20# and see if you can't launch a bit harder.

rx7_ragtop

Nope... a LOT more. There isn't a 4.88 gearset made for it. You COULD have the pinion gear extended (cut and welded) but I would then be leary of weakness... or you could have a machine shop make a new one, then heat treat it... etc. The pinion is longer on the FC than the FB.

Quote:

Uh, streetable? I drive almost 100 miles round trip to the track on the short 205/55-14 555R's. Is that streetable? If I have to make really long, high speed trips I put on my other tires which are 225/70-14's which bring the effective gear ratio down to GTUs range. Gas miles with 205/60-14's (4.88 effective ratio) is 18mpg mixed driving. I'm pretty sure that this is better than 90% or the FC's I've seen. It is even better with the 225/60-14's.

Ted, the point of the post is that you don't have to go turbo, nitrous or ported to make 200+hp. You can do it by doing modifications that matter. You can make your car hit a particular number (1/4 mile time) by adjusting the power to weight ratio. Adding HP is not the only way to go faster. In fact, weight reduction not only makes your car faster in a straight line, it also brakes better, handles better, and is easier on parts, provided you maintain balance.

So, instead of this thread being encouragement to others, it has now turned into flaming. Thanks.

Ted didn't flame... he just pointed out that it's harder to get a FC down to 2400# than it is to start with a 2400# (from the factory) FB.

GLHS

Why is it hard to get a FC to weight under 2400?


I only unbolted things and got the car " 88 SE" to 2,187..

BTW it just ran a 14.5 @ 94 and burned first and second. So I assume 13s are possible on a FC with a stock port engine. Also the engine has 310,000 miles, and that is ****** crazy to see..I have had this car for 11 years now and gets faster as it gets older..

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Could you elaborate a bit on what you just "unbolted"?

GLHS

Seats, bumper supports. tow hooks, accessories under the hood, just the normal ****..A/C P/S, BAC, ACV, A/P,clutch fan, half the main pulley. stuff like this.. oh and headlight motors, carpet, plastic parts...all parts that unbolt. I did cut off the front bumper mount off, to run my two 4" ducts to the air filter, but thats was maybe 1/3 lbs......I still have more to remove.. also I have a lightweight hood..I think thats it..

BlackRx7

wow so thats not a daily driver....pray you don't crash. **** at 2187 you could add a nice size roll bar and still be good!!!

GLHS

You may not swallow this, but all the tar **** on the metal is still there, the dash is still complete with fan, and controls. idoit lights. and glove box, and stereo, but only 1 speaker...

GLHS

I drive this car to work every day its very streetable and driveable...

also if you think those 2 1/2 mph bumpers are gonna help you, well maybe if your going 3 mph....

BlackRx7

WOW Definatly need pics, btw those plastic bumpers saved my engine and frame rearending someone at 30 mph but that was my old car (first car) but I have to see who you car looks

GLHS

Sure any time, I am the president of a RX7 club..

once we get a complete set of good inside pictures, I will add them to our website...

If you go to my site and check out last meet pictures @ 1320, its the white S4 with the white painted trim...

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Yes, could you post pics, Id really be interested in seeing this. If I can get my FC down to 2400 Id be plenty happy....**** Id be exstatic..

GLHS

Pictures are on my website..

www.fafracing.com

RETed

Are you running around with the headlights permanently in the up/on position?

What does your registration say on what your initial weight of your vehicle?

I find it really hard to believe you lost about 500# of weight just be removing those items.

One seat is only about 30#.
if you had rear seats, they are only about 15# with hardware.
Underhood non-essentials are maybe 100# max.
Headlight motors are like another 30# - unless you lights are permanently in the up position, that makes your car illegal on the street due to insufficient lighting at night.
Carpet and interior plastic panels are maybe another 50# max.
This does not break 300# - does that mean your car initially weighed about 2500#?

When you mention bumper support, do you mean the fiberglass reinforcement?&nbsp Or are you talking about metal cutting here?&nbsp Those fiberglass reinforcement helps distribute forces in case of a frontal or rear accident.&nbsp You hit something front or rear and the car will cave in pretty spectacularly - this is just asking for trouble in my book.&nbsp These things can't weigh more than 50# for both + the styrafoam pieces.



-Ted

GLHS

I understand what you are saying.. My title said 2425.


In Florida there is no such law about headlights, " I love Florida". also it works fine, gives plenty of light with the FTP lenses out..


I did cut some of the metal support on one side. I have done 150 MPH and have had no flexing of any kind, not even any paint cracking. and since we have body layin around, and a good one is less than $500 without an engine, I amnot worried about wreacking it. I have been driving it for 11 years and haven't cracked it yet, or any of my cars..ever. But I know it can happen. Thats why its good to know GOD.

Its cool if you guys can't swallow this, I am by no means worried about it..

dvcn

GLHS-
Good job on your car!

Weight reduction is a cheap way to add performance. Don't think a 300lb reduction makes a big difference? Add 300lbs to your car and see what it does to the acceleration, braking and 'feel'. Now imagine what it would be like if you removed 300lbs or more.

For those who are weight conscious, be aware not only of wheel/tire weights but of rotational inertia. Big, tall heavy wheels and tires have the same effect as adding weight to the flywheel. This month's Grassroots Motorsports has some excellent technical articles that address rotation inertia.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Bump, waiting for GLHS's pics

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

I love doing 150 in a FC its so calm at high speeds.

sonic7

iTrader: (1)

It just takes a little bit to get there in an NA...