who has used a rebuild vid
11-14-05, 07:17 PM
#2
i am legendary
I used the atkins vid as well as the FSM for my first rebuild and it went fine. No issues except I pinched the front cover o-ring during the build and had to replace it later. Other than that it's fine with 3k+ on it so far. Though I no longer have the engine myself, sold it to a friend, and have built another (better) engine since then. I used the FSM only for my latest build.
11-14-05, 07:23 PM
#3
Compression Tester Guy
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I used the FSM and the Bruce Turrentine video to rebuild my TII and NA. The video helped me the most as I work best when I can see how something is done. I have 5k+ on the motor and it's holding up just fine. I do have a bit of an oil leak from the pan on my TII, but that was my own fault for not using enough RTV. I learned my lesson and the NA got plenty of RTV.
-John
-John
11-14-05, 09:23 PM
#5
i started out with Atkins video but i had to watch it about 3-4 times because i kept falling asleep. it gives you the basic knowledge and gives an idea about specs but VHS tapes are about as worthless as... anyways, use the FSM for specs and the video for basic undertstanding.
i have built many engines since then and had no issues with any of my builds(except the very first which turned out to be a nightmare but it was also a very rare problem with the engine, not covered in the video or FSM). 13+ years of auto mechanical experience helps though.
i have built many engines since then and had no issues with any of my builds(except the very first which turned out to be a nightmare but it was also a very rare problem with the engine, not covered in the video or FSM). 13+ years of auto mechanical experience helps though.
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11-14-05, 10:13 PM
#8
i am legendary
Originally Posted by Turbo II-FB
any tips on anything guys
11-15-05, 01:56 AM
#10
having an electric or air operated impact gun is also essential IMO, most of the other tools needed are just basic hand tools and measuring devices like vernier calipers and a feeler gauge plus you'll need a 3/8" torque wrench which ranges ~10ft/lbs to ~50+ for accuracy, a smaller torque wrench is good but not necessary unless you have serious anger issues with 10mm oil pan bolts.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-15-05 at 01:59 AM.
11-15-05, 02:20 AM
#11
Rotary Freak
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alright tomorrow I'll pick up a fsm any other tips. I did learn one thing that is it good to put RTV on the tension bolts to reduce harmonic vibrations
11-15-05, 04:51 AM
#15
Turrentine vid, FSM and Haynes. Missed the front cover o-ring on the first build and had to rebuild after 6 hours of run time in the shop. Toasted all 4 bearings and the e-shaft. 2nd motor is almost broken in with no problems.
Super glue is the only way to install the apex seals. Glue them together on a heavy piece of plastic, have some acetone handy in case you glue your fingers to something. Clean the seals with brake clean, acetone or laquer thinner, and blow dry, then glue. Once the glue is set, scrape the side of the seals to remove any excess glue. If the seals are not glued up straight and even, they won't fit, or the glue joint will break, before it is in place. If the joint is crooked, heat it with a propane torch, lightly, then snap the joint. You will need to remove all of the old glue, before re-glueing. I found a new type of super glue that is thicker than the original, works much better, less messy and less runny.
Test fit and assemble the rotors completely, before you even start with the block. Use 2 rubber bands on each rotor to hold the seals in until you are ready to install them.
Super glue is the only way to install the apex seals. Glue them together on a heavy piece of plastic, have some acetone handy in case you glue your fingers to something. Clean the seals with brake clean, acetone or laquer thinner, and blow dry, then glue. Once the glue is set, scrape the side of the seals to remove any excess glue. If the seals are not glued up straight and even, they won't fit, or the glue joint will break, before it is in place. If the joint is crooked, heat it with a propane torch, lightly, then snap the joint. You will need to remove all of the old glue, before re-glueing. I found a new type of super glue that is thicker than the original, works much better, less messy and less runny.
Test fit and assemble the rotors completely, before you even start with the block. Use 2 rubber bands on each rotor to hold the seals in until you are ready to install them.
11-15-05, 08:22 AM
#16
Locust of the apocalypse
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Originally Posted by Turbo II-FB
I also heard of ppl using super glue to hold the 2peice seals toether is that a good idea?
Here;s my advice on gluing the end pieces..
Get yourself two pieces of glass, (go to home depot or somewhere) about 2" wide by 3 or 4 inches long.. glue the glass together at a right angle, one piece lined up at the edge of the other so that you have half a box get it?? Now, Wax the glass with some regular turtle wax or any other paste car wax.
Now, when you superglue the endpieces, you use a VERY SMALL amount of super glue, just enough to wet the edge, then you lay it on the glass and push it up against the corner where the two pieces meet. that makes sure that the end piece is glued to the main piece perfectly straight and that the top of the seal is perfectly level... Get it?????
if some glue gets on the glass and the assembly sticks.. no biggie.. the wax will help the glule release from the glass, just use a piece of plastic as a drift and knock it of the glass with a hammer (I use the barrel of a plastic pen with the guts removed)
now, you take a razor blade and shave any superglue off the assembly so that it doesn't bind in the rotor groove!
11-15-05, 10:34 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by TitosToy
the atkins video says to use vasoline. i'm in the middle of collecting parts to do my rebuild but i'll let you know what happes later.
yeah.. and then when you finally give up cause they keep poppin out.. everytime you look at the E-Shaft crosseyed.... you gotta clean all that friggin vasiline off before you superglue 'em!!!!!
11-15-05, 10:39 AM
#20
Engine, Not Motor
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I have the Bruse T. video. I have never seen the Atkins video, but from what I hear the Bruce video is much better (and a lot more entertaining!). Bruce also released an engine R&R video as well, which I don't think is as good.
Superglue on the apex seals is a definite must, as it Hylomar on the coolant o-rings.
There is also a rebuild thread in the archives that goes over the entire process, written by me.
Superglue on the apex seals is a definite must, as it Hylomar on the coolant o-rings.
There is also a rebuild thread in the archives that goes over the entire process, written by me.
11-15-05, 10:44 AM
#21
Green Flameless
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I found the Bruce T video to be very helpful as well. . I didn't use any superglue though, just lots of vasoline. I didn't have any trouble with corner seals?
The only issue I had was a pinched coolant seal that started to show itself after about 1500 miles or so.. Those Vioton (sp?) o-rings are a pain
The only issue I had was a pinched coolant seal that started to show itself after about 1500 miles or so.. Those Vioton (sp?) o-rings are a pain
11-15-05, 11:02 AM
#24
Did you already remove the flywheel and E-shaft bolt? If not, this'll be the first of several mini-challenges in the tear-down/rebuild process.
Make sure you have a clean, large-ish work area, because cramped and dirty spaces have a way of causing unnecessary stress.
Have an area for your tools and get in the habit of putting them back after using. This goes a long way in keeping the work area clean.
Watch out for apex seals and springs 'flying' out when you pull the rotors, lol. Make SURE you've got a clean area around the motor (in the initial stages of teardown) so that you can see any misplaced seals.
Be careful when setting the rotors down, you don't want to accidentily damage the 'tips' where the corner-seals rest.
On assembly, be very meticulous and don't be afraid to start over if you've got even 1% doubt about a certain aspect of the rebuild. Believe me, it'll save a lot of stress later on.
Also, the Atkins video says to use Hylomar on all the coolant seal slots, and to do the Hylomar/seal install all at once. Meaning you'll have the 3 irons standing upright with the coolant seals slowly coming unstuck from the Hylomar while you're constantly pushing them back in place. I'd recommend just doing one iron at a time... So, for the center-iron don't bother doing the Hylomar and seals on both sides at once. Wait until the iron is laying flat and installed before doing the Hylomar and coolant seals on the 'upright' side. This way, after you've done one side of the center-iron, you don't have to 'squirt' the hylomar in the coolant-seal slot when the plate is standing upright.
I've never used glue for the Apex seals. Just gobs and gobs of Vaseline and rubber-bands until the rotors are ready to go in. Rubber gloves will be your friend at this point in the rebuild, lol.
Don't forget the RTV on the underside of the E-shaft bolt head...
Also, don't forget to allign the oil-seal springs with their grooves in the rotors and their grooves in the seals themselves.
Make sure you have a clean, large-ish work area, because cramped and dirty spaces have a way of causing unnecessary stress.
Have an area for your tools and get in the habit of putting them back after using. This goes a long way in keeping the work area clean.
Watch out for apex seals and springs 'flying' out when you pull the rotors, lol. Make SURE you've got a clean area around the motor (in the initial stages of teardown) so that you can see any misplaced seals.
Be careful when setting the rotors down, you don't want to accidentily damage the 'tips' where the corner-seals rest.
On assembly, be very meticulous and don't be afraid to start over if you've got even 1% doubt about a certain aspect of the rebuild. Believe me, it'll save a lot of stress later on.
Also, the Atkins video says to use Hylomar on all the coolant seal slots, and to do the Hylomar/seal install all at once. Meaning you'll have the 3 irons standing upright with the coolant seals slowly coming unstuck from the Hylomar while you're constantly pushing them back in place. I'd recommend just doing one iron at a time... So, for the center-iron don't bother doing the Hylomar and seals on both sides at once. Wait until the iron is laying flat and installed before doing the Hylomar and coolant seals on the 'upright' side. This way, after you've done one side of the center-iron, you don't have to 'squirt' the hylomar in the coolant-seal slot when the plate is standing upright.
I've never used glue for the Apex seals. Just gobs and gobs of Vaseline and rubber-bands until the rotors are ready to go in. Rubber gloves will be your friend at this point in the rebuild, lol.
Don't forget the RTV on the underside of the E-shaft bolt head...
Also, don't forget to allign the oil-seal springs with their grooves in the rotors and their grooves in the seals themselves.