To My Parking And Dash Lights? I Searched And See That It Could Be The Switch, I Know For A Fact My Power Wire Touched Ground When Swaping Out My Stereo 2 Days Ago, Would The Fuse Be Out Or Switch? If Its The Fuse Is It The (radio) Fuse That Would Be Out?

 

Check the fuses in the drivers side footwell...there are "room" and "guages" fuses located there. Sounds like an easy fix for you.

 

See the pictures in the FAQ

 

thank god! i was hoping it was just the fuses, MY logical sense told me to check the radio fuse, but after reading about the headlight switch i started worrying....thanks

 

I"m going through the EXACT same crap right now.

 

checked those fuses, well the room one was fine, I didnt see a "Gauges" fuse, Im assuming its the "Meter" one u were talking about? Either case none of them were bad.... would this be an indication that the switch is bad? for some reason that doesn't make any sense to me though, why mazda wouldn't put a fuse to the radio power..... hmmm... anyone?

 

The ILLUMINATION fuse feeds the tail lights and the dash lights thru the light switch. Since both tail lights and dash lights don't work it's the fuse or a fried light switch/switch harness.

So, if the fuse is good, then pull the light switch plug off and see if there is batt voltage on the White/Green wire. Got power there? Then it's a switch or light switch problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=218303

Most likely the Red/Green wire (goes to the cigar lighter device also), was used as a gnd for the radio or some other God awful function and is blowing the ILLUMINATION fuse and or the light switch/harness/other.

Free FSM with wiring diagrams available online and for free.

OR, SEARCH and use the words Light Switch or maybe Tail Lights or?????

 

ok I just had a big long thread about this. I went through this problem last weekend. First, make sure all your fuses are good.

Make sure your headlight switch is connected. Turn the parking lights on. With your voltmeter, backprobe first the white/green wire, then the red/green wire and finally the red/black wire on the back of the harness. Wrap a paperclip around the leads on your multimeter and secure it with electrical tape, then slide the end of the paperclip on the red probe into the harness to check that particular wire, with the black probe touching a known good chassis ground. You should read around 12 volts on all three of these wires.

If the white/green wire is getting voltage and either the red/black or red/green are not, you've got a fried switch. The switch is probably fried because you said a wire grounded out.

Pull your radio and trace both the red/green and red/black wires. Make sure there is no exposed wires or lose connections anywhere. Then you can try replacing your switch (Icemark has rebuilt ones or you can try your hand at junkyard one). If that doesn't fix it, you've got a bad harness.

 

wow, at the expense of sounding like a complete moron, I RE-check all my fuses, it was the illumination one.......i know i had checked it too!!! oh well, i'm STOKED!!!! no new switch, thanks god.... just for future reference, how much is one of those rebuilt switches from icemark?

 

What is the cardinal rule, and first step when it comes to installing ANY electronic device in a vehicle??


You guessed it!!! Disconnect the battery!! It may seem pointless at the time but theres a reason that its #1 in the instructions. Not to mention, it dramatically cuts down on the headaches later on. Case in point.....This thread.

The most valuable tool any mechanic can ever possess is common sense! Im glad you figured out that it was just a fuse and got the problem fixed. Hopefully you, (and everyone who has read this thread) has learned a truely in-valuable lesson.