I was wondering if it would be stupid to run that thing from the o2 sensor up through where the shifter is and then to the ecu? This is the way I have it run so it doesn't have to go into the engine bay (where there is excessive heat) and then to the ecu. I know the trany gets hot so maybe it's a dumb idea, anyways if you guys don't mind just let me know if where I have it is dumb or not that way I can changed it now that the downpipe is going back in. THanks.

 

mine was insulated and braided stainless steel coated, so i wasnt concerned about the heat. however that seems like a good idea. I ran mine up from the dp over to the driver side harness and into the cab from there.

 

yeah thats what I was going to do but am kind of leary about running it into the hot engine bay. Is it ok to run it how I've got it or do you think it would get hotter there?

 

I guess I'm just going to leave it like that seems ok to me. If anyone has an objections just let me know.

 

am I asking the wrong question? Am I the only one to have a wideband o2 sensor? Thats it zeitronix made a wideband just for me and no one else

 

I have an RB header, I ran mine over the transmission and looped back into the firewall ECU plug. (For the purposes of avoiding the exhaust)

 

so you think the trany isn't quite as hot as engine bay etc...? Thanks for the input, I knew someone else on this forum had a wideband

 

i ran mine through the shifter, it works fine. just becareful to make sure wires arent going to hit driveshaft.

 

cool thanks man. did you run the cables under the heatshield? I'm emagining you did. Let me go check that out.

 

If you keep it off the exhaust itself, it'll be fine under the hood. The ambient temperature under the hood isn't that severe. I've got various widebands all ran in through the engine bay with no problems.

 

thanks sonic, as a matter of fact I just took it out from the shifer and ran it up the engine bay because 1) I didn't want the cord to hit the drive shaft and 2) I think it would be hotter running the cord right above the exhaust then about 6 to 8" on the side of it. Thanks again.

 

I was in on the groupbuy for the zeitronix wb o2 a few months ago. I just finished school for this semester, and actually have TIME to put **** on my car!!! So, i am reading the instructions for the o2, and am having trouble comprehending where to splice the wires from the 11 wire connector to the rest of the unit and the ecu to the car. I am running an s4 turboII. I will be installing a Field SFC Hyper R Fuel/air controller. Basically, this is a question for hondahater and the like situation. First off, should i wire up the air/fuel controller first, then the wb, or vice/versa? also, hondahater, you have any pics as to where to wire up the o2 sensor? I am thinking the Red and black wire should be wired directly to the wire in the back of the ecu where the stock narrowband o2 sensor connects to the ecu. aside from that, i am not too sure where to splice everything else. sorry for the vagueness of information. its late, i gotta work all day tomorrow, and i have had a couple of white russians, so i am feeling kind of tired. i just read over the instructions, and i also noticed the little two prong connector that came stapled to the directions of the wideband, and i ***-U-ME that that plugs into the simulated narrowband output for the ecu, or my "Favorite air/fuel controller." in any case, any information/pics would be absolutely appreciated. supposedly there is a diagram floating around for the installation!?!? i read it in one of the ancient threads regarding the wb for zeitronix. i am a picture person, words dont do a whole lot to me at the moment...plus my car is getting the piping done for the front mount and being remachined, should have it back by tuesday.

Thanks,
Ryan Shannon.

 

ok first off, lets see, the two prong adapter is to retro fit your current egt probe and wiring to that so it can be plugged into the box. as far as the wiring is conserned, here you go:

there are 11 wires total:
1 red - switched power(ign)
2 white - wideband analog output
3 green - rpm input(0-5v square wave from tach)
4 orange - boost sensor input
5 empty
6 yellow - boost sensor +5v power
7 black - power ground
8 brown - sensor ground
9 purple - simulated narrowband o2 output(for your stock ecu)
10 grey - throttle position sensor
11 brown - sensor ground
12 blue - user input 0-5v

i have wires 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, and 10 hooked up based on a diagram i got from this forum. 2 is for a stand alone, 5 is empty, 8 & 11 aren't needed if using 7(according to zeitronix), and i don't know what to do with 9 & 12. i would assume i'd get a signal with just ign power and ground but i'm not.

I got that off of another post but it is what I fallowed and it worked great! Here is the diagram of the ecu.

 

so with that diagram in mind

pin:

3I is for 1.
2E is for 3.
2B is for 4
2A is for 6
either 3G, 3A, 2R, or 2C is for 8
2G is for 10

And that's it man. Good luck, I think I made that simple enough.

 

Hmm...looks good to me. Im going to try to wire it up tomorrow (if my intercooler pipes are finished being fitted/fabricated) and see what i come up with. Thanks for the help, youre a badass.

Ryan Shannon.

 

no problem man! hope it all works for you Tournapart, lol I like hondas for their reliability I just made this screen name a long time ago when I was pissed at them because I bought a prelude and it ended up biting me in the *** and made me go broke. 300 a month for the car note and almost 300 for insurance a month

 

Hey Honda thats the same reason I hate GM LOL.

 

lol, yeah I was young and dumb then with a good job at the local gateway country store making a crap load of money but I knew the job wasn't going to last long as gateway sucks! I just rode it out as long as possible While other people where buying houses and yaughts and nice ******' cars. So I messed up but not as much as these other guys. Ahhh good times, lol.