well it was the upper oil line was split, but now i cant get the engine started. it feels like it is dragging. there is a gash in the upper line and when i was cranking it, the oil was seeping out of it. any ideas on the dragging part?

 

how does the oil look? funny smell? discoloration? burnt or anthing? Don't start it till you fix it though .. just gonna make a big mess. It's not like you can leave it running, spewing oil all over.


-Robert

 

The oil system works in relatively the same manner as the fuel system. There is pressure, it isnt a closed system like the coolant. The coolant becomes under pressure when it warms up not when it is cool. It expands and creates pressure. As it increases it gains more pressure. The oil pump pumps and pressureizes the oil lines then that pressure is released when it is dumped back into the resivor (oil pan) same thing with the fuel system, except the fuel system always has some pressure in the lines. You are supposed to check coolant pressure (FSM, E-5). The fuel system is also supposed to be under pressure (FSM, F1-50). The oil system is pressurized also. FSM D-5 "Start up engine and let warm to operating tempature" at 3000rpm the oil pressure shoudl be (64-78) psi. They are all similar but each hold pressure different ways. The fuel is constant, the coolant is only when hot(hence the warning "do not remove filler cap when engine is warm") and the oil system, only when the car is running and the pump is pumping.

 

if the line is split what was probally happening was that as the engine got warmer, the oil did also. This heated up the line causing it to expand and when it got large enough it allowed the oil to get out. Replace the line and see if it squirts again.

 

this thread seems aptly named.

 

well its not discolored, or funky smelling. it was low though. have no idea why. i will replace it and see if i can get it going.

 

LOL, cause it blew the oil all over when it blew

 

OK, this is just stupid. If the oil system is nto presurized, try unscrewing your oil filter while the engine is running. Big surprise, you'll be covered in oil.

You are using the reserve system for your examples: the oil pan is a non-pressure area, used as a sump for holding oil not currently being used by the oil system. The coolant reserve canister is a necessary part of the cooling system, as it cycles coolant in and out of the system to deal with the expanision properties of fluids in a closed volume during a change in temperature,yet if you take the cap off of it at any point, coolant will not shoot out. It si the cooling systems RESERVE. The oil pan is of the same system, and the dipstick and oil cap are a part of the system.

The oiling system is a bleeding system; that is, pressurized oil is fed through tolerances and then bled down into the oil pan. The pressure is maintained by the oil pressure regulator.

So... let's look at some facts:
-The oil flowing through the oil cooler is pressurized. This is undeniable.
- In a garage heated to ~15 degrees celsius (60 degrees fahrenheit), with the exhaust ducted to toe outside via collection ducts, the oil temperature DOES NOT CHANGE.
- These two FACTS mean you are WRONG and need to stop arguing.

 

NO, the fact IS, he blew a gash in the upper oil line and spewed oil all over the place, and now cannot get his car to start, or run properly after letting his car idle for 30-45 Mins, with none of the plastics in place.

and before this event, he had nothing but a minor coolant leak ... who is wrong?

Your theroy, or flat out evidence.

-Robert

 

I am saying it happened by fluke, yes. I just ran my engine with no adverse effects. I have done several dozen rebuilds, where you must run the engine at raised idle rpms for easily an hour without ever having the oil boil.

Care to explain to me how ambient temperature would affect your argument anyway? It only proves mine. I am saying the oil is cooled through the oil cooler by the cooling fan while the engine is running. You obviously disagree. So, if no air flows through the oil cooler, then the ambient air surrounding the oil cooler would be elevated above the ambient outside air temperatures. SO, if you start at -50 degrees, yet the air does not flow through the oil cooler, quickly, the ambient air temperature is not significant.
Obviously this is not true.

Common man. I've posted test results and given a perfect explanation of WHY. There are so many holes in you story now. Instead of arguing as to whether or not the oil system is under the same type of pressure as the cooling system, why not answer me these things:
1. With all stock plastic in place, how does air not flow through the oil cooler? The oil cooler is in the path of airflow created by the fan.
2. If airflow does not go through the oil cooler, why would ambient temperatures matter?
3. Based on 3, why is it that my engine did not see any increase in oil temperature? Why is it that none of the engines I have ever let idle for over an hour have their oil boil and blow lines? How come everytime I bleed the air out of a cooling system, which requres engine idling for well over 30 minutes, AND the cooling system is not cooling as effectively as it should (not operating under pressure), does the oil not boil?

Time to put up or shutup.

 

His oil cooling system was not correctly operating. However, we do not know for fact that his oil boiled. That is THEORY.
You started arguing before you even knew his plastics were not installed.

I suspect he cannot get his car to run proerly b/c his oil line blew and leaked all of the oil out of the system. The bearings ran under low pressure, and overheated. Upon letting the car cool, they will be distorted, causing the dragging sound.

 

If you need 30 minutes to bleed air out of your cooling system; you don't have a clue what the hell you are doing. Not to mention, drive the car... don't sit there at idle to get it to proper operating temps.

Like I said eariler with all the propper platics in place, enough draw may come through the oil cooler to stop the oil from overheating, but I still don't think it would be good enough for 45 Mins. not to mention in this case he did NOT have the plastics in place. This has been stated.

Ambient tempature will effect everything, air is going to move no matter what, it circulates around us all the time. Why do you think boost responce is so much better in the colder weather. Ambient temaptures cool the intake, and IC better!


So, It is just a pure fluke that none of us have ever heard of these oil ines blowing under normal circumstances, but ... the guy that makes the mistake of running his car for 45 mins with no plastics in place blew the **** out of an oil line? That is one hell of a coincidence.

-Robert

 

In all this bickering and bitching, we are forgeting the sad, but most important part.

This poor guys car might be fuked up bad But I sure hope not.

stevensimon, if you need new bearings I have a brand new un opened set you can have. I bought them for my rebuild, but never used them ... mine were still in very good shape.



-Robert

 

To bleed the cooling system you leave the cap off and idle the engine until no more air bubble show up. This does not happen instantly, it takes 30-45 minutes.

Boost response is better in cold weather because 1. the air is denser. 2. The air charge is cooler. Its the same reason why boost response is better the closer you get to sea level and the reason you would use a CAI.

Yes, I say it is pure fluke that it blew. My car is idling right now with the undertray off, in the garage, and has been for 10 minutes. Oil temps are 187 degrees, and remaining constant.
Looks like you're about to be proved wrong, again.

 

It is very sad that you have nothing better to do. If I was not at work right now, I would not even waste my time arguing with you. You have issues. Also, if you are not running the stock cooling system & fan, your tests prove nothing.

 

I am killing time before I leave on vacation for a week.
It took me all of 1 minute to drop the pan, and as I said before, I am running the stock fan shroud and stock fan. Only difference this time is there is no undertray.

The fact that you find it sad is what is wrong with your argument: Instead of trying to prove anything, you sit there and argue based solely on some abscure ideas. This is arguing out of nescience, and it is incorrect.

1 minute out of my life to end misinformation; 1 minute to shut up your fraudulence is 1 minute well worth it. I accomlished something. You did not. Which one of these is sad?

What I find sad is that when proved wrong, you take to attempting to insult me. Pretty pathetic; way to be gracious when proved wrong.

25 minutes of running time and we are at 188 degrees fahrenheit.

 

Say what you want. Do what you want ... It's no matter to me. The facts are facts, your car is the not the car in question. The car in question was damaged from nothing other than leting it idle too long. Those are the facts any way you decide to mis constrew them.

And if I recall you started throwing the insults first. Your entire inital post was nothing more than a flame with miss information thrown in along the way. You were already wrong about the oil pressure, and now you cannot deal with the fact that oil temperture alone caused that upper oil line to fail. Thus resulting in his entire problem. No 7 owner I have EVER heard of has had an oil line burst while driving his car, but this one did from improper air flow while running.

 

Wrong. There is no proof that the car in question blew its oil line from idling too long. That is just a premise, one that I have just proved unlikely.

What misinformation have I posted? If anything, I am the only one who has posted proven fact. everything you have said was either some incorrect conceptual idea of how the oiling system works or some random guess about what happened.

40 minutes of idling with temps staying at 188 degrees.

 

Iteresting buddy, You either lied then .. or you are lying now ... My guess is that you are spewing more bullshit now.

here is a direct quite from you;

Hey Scathhard which Electric fan do you have?
And were in Vancouver did you get hold of an Electric fan?




Status: Online!
Registered: Dec 2001
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 3047
"I got a black Magic.
Ordered through summitracing.
You can also get them through Lordco. I can get you a discount with them as well."




here is the post where you claim you are running a black magic E-fan.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=83935

 

You assume I have only one RX-7. Never assume anything. I have had several RX-7's since that point. I have since sold the car of which that post refers to.
That post was made may of 2002, well over a year and a half ago.

Keep trying, you're still wrong.

I shut the car down just now. Temps for the oil were maintained at 188 degree fahrenheit.

OWNED twice in one post.

 

To clarify: that car was a 1990 TII which I had modified.
The car in question now is a completely stock GXL.

 

someone quote me!!!

 

Well, I am off work in 10 minutes. So, we shall continue this argument when I get back to work tommorow. Until then, stay tuned my friends. More to come in the saga of what causes oil lines to fail, .. random acts of god, or no air flow over the oil cooler for half hr's at a time. Don't forget to ask stevensimon, would he do it again?


-Robert

 

apparently Rpeck is the only person who actually read my post. There's no arguing this.

It is not a pressurized system! Oil is flowing, by means of the oil pump... There is a pressure of the flow of the oil. There is no tight-sealed atmospheric pressure, like the coolant system. Geez.

 

Everyone has different views on what is pressure. 2 : the application of force to something by something else in direct contact with it
7 : atmospheric pressure
there is pressure in the oil system... it isnt atmospheric. I made it clear in my post that no one read...

The oil system works in relatively the same manner as the fuel system. There is pressure, it isnt a closed system like the coolant. The coolant becomes under pressure when it warms up not when it is cool. It expands and creates pressure. As it increases it gains more pressure. The oil pump pumps and pressureizes the oil lines then that pressure is released when it is dumped back into the resivor (oil pan) same thing with the fuel system, except the fuel system always has some pressure in the lines. You are supposed to check coolant pressure (FSM, E-5). The fuel system is also supposed to be under pressure (FSM, F1-50). The oil system is pressurized also. FSM D-5 "Start up engine and let warm to operating tempature" at 3000rpm the oil pressure shoudl be (64-78) psi. They are all similar but each hold pressure different ways. The fuel is constant, the coolant is only when hot(hence the warning "do not remove filler cap when engine is warm") and the oil system, only when the car is running and the pump is pumping.