I need to know the make wheel size, offset and tire size I can run on stock suspension.

 

There is a WHOLE thread on this in the suspension section, but as its about as long a war and peace, i'll give ya the quickie.. but you should read "the Official FC fitment thread"

17's are the easiest to fit.. 18's work, but your limited by tire size up front...

I'm not going to tell to the MAX... Contact a guy name Raisingarizona for that..

I run 17X7.5 wheels on the front with a +38 offset and 215/45/17 tires.. and its friggin perfect.. the rear.. I run 17X8.5+39 with a 245/45/15 and I like that a lot...

Now.. on the rears... if I had gone with an offset around +32, I could have stepped up to a 9" wheel and 255 seriies tires no problem. (i can run 255's now, but the inside of the tire would be getting too close to the trailing arm for my comfort AND they would be buldging a bit.. with the 245's my sidwalls in the rear are pretty much vertical) it also would have pushed the tire just enough closer to to make it look perfectly flush without rubbing.. hindsight is 20/20 but laying out 2 Grand... i wanted to be absolutely sure..


Thats my "SAFE" suggestion

I also spec'ed out 18X7.5+38 fronts with 225/35/18's and 18X8.5+32 in the rear with 255/40/18's


Now.. Go sniff around in here if you want to know just how retarded you can get... https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/official-fc-wheel-fitment-thread-257700/

If you want PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you my exceol spreadsheet that will automatically tell you if your wheel tire combo will work. (it uses stock wheel dimensions and clearances as compared to the new wheels..)

 

For descriptive.. here is a shot looking up from the asphalt at my trailing arm with 17X8.5+39's and Kuhmo MX 245/45/17's



here is a shot of how flush the wheels sit



with the eibachs on now,, it sits a little lower, but there is about 1/2 inch of room to go "out" yet.. SOooo you could go with a 8.5 - 9" wheel with around a +32 offset and 255's and you'd be about as close as I would want to go. (thats MEm though, I'm an old fart!!!) 265's will even fit with those numbers I am told

 

I'm running a 18X9.5" with a 265/35/18 35mm offset in the rear with no problems. Its really close to the trailing arm, but you won't get enough movement between the tire's relation to the trailing arm for them to rub. There are several who run a 38mm offset (3mm closer to trailing arm) in the same width with no problems either.

~Mike............

 

There ya go..

Remeber... its not the wheel size thats gonna kill you.. its the tire cross section... different makes of tire will have differnt cross sections

Mike.. what are you rinning up front (and do you have stock suspension) I'm compiling a list of what works and what doesn't..

 

I'm running 18X8" 38mm offset with 235/40/18 tires in front to go with the 18X9.5" wheels and 265/35/18 tires in the back. I have a trick to make this work, because stock set up the tire will rub BADLY on the lower sring perch. My "trick" works with 40mm offset 8" wide wheels as well. The tires I'm running are BFG KDW II (nice and sticky). These tires were a full 10mm wider then the size their suppossed to be. The 235 front measured 245 from the begining to the end of the TREAD, not the actual tires overall width. And the same for the rears, measuring 275mm were the tires are labeled 265. So these tires are WIDE for their rated/labeled sizes.

Now for my "trick" (I've used this long enough, I guess I can share it now ) to fitting high offset wheels on the front of the FC. I use both camber plates AND camber adjustment bolts. The camber bolts are eccentric/cam type bolts. These can be purchased from Engals, Eibach, and OBX. Its a cam bolt that slips into the strut were it bolts to the hub carrier/spindle/steering arm. Theres two bolts here were the strut clamps to it. Replace the top bolts with the eccentric cam bolt. Your now able to adjust camber a few degrees in either direction (pos or neg camber). It tilts the wheel away or closer to the strut. OK, now you can add space between your tire/wheel and the strut assembly, but the draw back is positive camber which sucks for handling and less important, looks dumb. Now this is were the top of the strut camber plates work. Dial back in negative camber. POOF!!, wide wheels that don't stick out past the fender.

I'm an advocat of wider is better. I'm also an advocate of running close to stock offsets regardless of how wide you go on rim / tire width. Running low offsets like some fools like to do or suggest is bad in a couple different ways. 1: your changing the scrub radius, or the point were the imaginary line of which your wheel's axis were it turns for steering. Running low offsets will throw this off moving more of the tires contact patch out and further away from this axis. 2: now your wheel/tire has a longer moment arm on your steering axis because your tires contact patch is further away from it. Now little cracks, seems, bumbs, dips etc. on the road has more effect on your steering making it more twitchy/darty and more enclined to follow grooves or imperfections in the road. 3: bumbs now will also have more of an effect, you'll feel more of it through the wheel. 4: That now longer moment arm is stressing your wheel bearing, lower ball joint, tie rods, struts, much more due to the longer arm as well now. So things WILL wear out pre-maturely. 5: lower offsets with wide wheels run the chance of tires making contact with innner fenders and outer body work. Yeah you can roll your fenders, but why? 6: My personal pet pev..... wheels that stick out are gay. They look horrible.

Also, keep in mind that my trick also moves your steering axis out too, so running a slightly lower offset from stock (stock is 40mm) will be negated. Another bonus.

~Mike..........