When i launch my car at the track i get wheel hop big time...i just put in my new t2 lsd and i still get wheel hop...i saw on the 300zx forum they make a bushing for the back that will eliminate the wheel hop...is there anything for the rx-7 like this...also...when i used to shift from 1st to second i would squeal the tires...now with the new lsd...its different...doesnt squeal...kinda shakes then goes...is this normal? is this what the lsd does? i dont know the difference between the 2 rear ends...so i am not sure how it effects my car.

Peace
Buddy

 

Yea, I think its RP that sells the new bushings, and about the 1st to 2nd thing you should still squeal, I dunnp whats up with that.

 

you probably just need an alignment. my car wheel hopped REAL bad. i got an alignment and i have NO wheel hop anymore.

 

There are 2 things that will cause wheel hop on an FC. One is alignment, and the other is underdamping. Worn shocks will gause the wheels to hop, as will too high of a springate(if you dont have stock springs). On alignment, the ride height is extremely important. My car was higher than stock in the back from the weight reduction I did, and I got horrible wheel hop. I lowered my car to where it is now, same springs and shocks as before, I never get wheel hop, ever.

Like vosko said, get your alignment checked, and check your shocks.

 

you think you got wheel hop? Drive an FD. The FD has almost un-cureable wheel hop.

 

my N/A hops easily.

 

Something isnt right. See my above post for possible causes. I can drop my clutch at 8K rpm, spin all the way through 1st, shift hard into 2nd, and spin for half of 2nd gear. No wheel hop, ever. Just clean spinning and nice black marks on the road

 

Yea I'm sure my shocks are worn.

 

well think about it. LSD is for traction. squealing means no traction... so now you have more traction...

I've been told that a rear strut bar helps wheel hop as well. but I can't see how.

 

It ties the rear struts together, which prevents the suspension geometry form changing due to flexing of the chassis.

 

ya it prevents them from flexing towards each other. there is no inward force on a lanch, only up and down. I don't think a bar helps up and down movment.

 

Another way to fix/lessen wheel hop on the track is lower the psi in your tires ... also will help your take offs.

 

2nd gens have really bad rear susp. geometry for drag lunches.. just try getting the stiffest rear springs and shocks you find.. remember under a launch the wheels want to pull up off the ground.. and the car wants to push down on the tires... good luck guys...

 

Thanks for all the replies...i think my strut is shot to ****....i will update when i change them.

Peace
Buddy

 

Youre kidding about the springs, right? Stiff springs will give you HORRIBLE wheel hop. The FC's dont have that bad of a suspension for drag launches, as long as the geometry is right where it should be.

I dont know how accurate this is, but I think the stock suspension works better for launches when lowered somewhat. I got horrible wheel hop before I lowered my car, but after I did, it went away completely.

 

oops

 

i only get wheel hop when its wet out and i launch hard
other than that just nice squeels

 

actually it does, but i highly doubt that he has that kind of power.

get some strut and springs and an aligment and it shold solve your problem.

I used Tokico HP w/ Eibach Pro-Kit springs, and NEVER wheel hopped, not even with slicks. I would average about a 1.98 60' on my drag radials.


a strut bar won't kill you, but it's going to solve your problem.

As for geometry, it's hard to find something that's better overall.

 

I read the V-8 rx-7's use pinon snubbers to help wheel hop.

 

if your shocks are worn, maybe you should get new ones

*ahem*forsalethreadplug*ahem*

 

i get wheel hop up the *** and i konw its not my shocks because the're new but i was thinking some bushings or maybe an alighnment i havnt tried that yet

 

Amur_ did a thread on installing the pinion snubber above the rear axle input housing. It was great info. Basically all that is involved is dropping the subframe a few inches, drilling a hole above where you want the pinion snubber (basically a rubber bumper with a stud coming out the bottom) to go, bolt it in from the passenger compartment above and reinstall the subframe / rear axle.

The stock front differential mount's shock absobing rubber is stressed in shear, not compression like it should be. It is a bad design in my opinion; notice how many people break this mount when drag racing. The pinion snubber almost touches the front of the rear axle housing and provides a rubber compression member for the axle to bump into as it tries to rotate opposite the force turning the rear wheels when launching, taking away the massive shearing load which breaks stock front differential mounts. To anyone who keeps breaking differential mounts, I would recommend doing this mod. It is cheap but time consuming.

 

I get wheel hope when I am going around corners, haven't managed to figure it out yet, Maybe its the alignment. Could it be worn bushings in the trailing arms?

 

I get HORRIBLE wheel hop. I have Tokico 5ways in the back with Eibach's all around. The Eibach's dropped the car 1.5 inches.

Is it normal for the rear wheels to stand at a slight angle...? Meaning the bottom of the wheel is slightly outward and the top is slightly inward...? It's hard to notice... but it's definatly angled.

Is this what you guys are refering to by an alignment...?

 

thats called negative camber, you got this because you lowered the car.