whats the problem with my engine? - VIDEO
#1
rice killa
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whats the problem with my engine? - VIDEO
Hey guys. My primary concern is that I cant figure out what the heck is the sound my engine is making. While making the post, i decided to write a few more questions and see if you can maybe tackle those as well.
Here is what I have:
non turbo to turbo s5 swap.
jdm turbo s5 engine. compression checked.
n/a wire harnes (s5)
n370 ecu, afm, boost sensor
new spark plug wires
somewhat new spark plugs (3rd set)
Racing beat 2.5" turbo back exhaust
air pump removed
egr blocked off
s5 n/a fuel pump
My car was extremely hard to start and it flooded a lot. I assumed this is because of leaky injectors (cause spark issues have been checked many times in the process, including a purchase of new plugs, wires, CAS restab/check and so on)... so anyway I made a fuel cut off switch to the fuel pump relay and I can somewhat start the car now. this is the only good news so far.
Question1.
Now, in order to start the car i have to floor it around 50% meaning i need to let some air into the engine, i assume this is because my air pump is removed? the engine came from Japan with egr blocked off already, so i dont know...
Question 2.
Once i start the engine, while cranking, my tachometer needle is bouncing, once the engine starts and needle goes above 500 rpm, it stops working, so i cant freaking see what rpm i am working with.... the engine seems to idle on its own around 1200rpm (i would guess from the sound).... without any idle hunt or anything like that. Bad trailing coil? Shitty spark plugs?
Question 3.
Below is a video I uploaded where I start the car, hold the throttle for a bit, then slowly let go and at the end of the video, engine starts to idle on its own.
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6QbtCW5P7qA&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6QbtCW5P7qA&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Now about 1 minute of idling like that and the engine starts to make this weird sound (video below) like its misfiring or detonating, or i dont know what the hell?
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MOky3epH690&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MOky3epH690&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Any ideas?
If someone can at least point me into a right direction, i would appreciate it.
Thanks!
Here is what I have:
non turbo to turbo s5 swap.
jdm turbo s5 engine. compression checked.
n/a wire harnes (s5)
n370 ecu, afm, boost sensor
new spark plug wires
somewhat new spark plugs (3rd set)
Racing beat 2.5" turbo back exhaust
air pump removed
egr blocked off
s5 n/a fuel pump
My car was extremely hard to start and it flooded a lot. I assumed this is because of leaky injectors (cause spark issues have been checked many times in the process, including a purchase of new plugs, wires, CAS restab/check and so on)... so anyway I made a fuel cut off switch to the fuel pump relay and I can somewhat start the car now. this is the only good news so far.
Question1.
Now, in order to start the car i have to floor it around 50% meaning i need to let some air into the engine, i assume this is because my air pump is removed? the engine came from Japan with egr blocked off already, so i dont know...
Question 2.
Once i start the engine, while cranking, my tachometer needle is bouncing, once the engine starts and needle goes above 500 rpm, it stops working, so i cant freaking see what rpm i am working with.... the engine seems to idle on its own around 1200rpm (i would guess from the sound).... without any idle hunt or anything like that. Bad trailing coil? Shitty spark plugs?
Question 3.
Below is a video I uploaded where I start the car, hold the throttle for a bit, then slowly let go and at the end of the video, engine starts to idle on its own.
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6QbtCW5P7qA&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6QbtCW5P7qA&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Now about 1 minute of idling like that and the engine starts to make this weird sound (video below) like its misfiring or detonating, or i dont know what the hell?
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MOky3epH690&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MOky3epH690&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Any ideas?
If someone can at least point me into a right direction, i would appreciate it.
Thanks!
#2
rice killa
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this sound happens every time, all the time, from approximately 10 to 60 seconds of idle depending on how hot the engine is. hot engine = 10 seconds and it starts bsin.
Also in case you wondering, my down pipe is not hooked up to precilenser, thats where the exhaust leak is from.....
And
1. My o2 sensor isn't hooked up
2. Main ground might be bad
3. no knock sensor
thats all i can remember so far..........
Also in case you wondering, my down pipe is not hooked up to precilenser, thats where the exhaust leak is from.....
And
1. My o2 sensor isn't hooked up
2. Main ground might be bad
3. no knock sensor
thats all i can remember so far..........
#3
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1: read up about flooding, nothing to do with the air pump.
Also mate I recon its your plugs... sounds like its running on 1 rotor.
Pull em out and have a look. will be fairly obvious straight up.
Also mate I recon its your plugs... sounds like its running on 1 rotor.
Pull em out and have a look. will be fairly obvious straight up.
#4
rice killa
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went through 3 sets of ngk spark plugs, pulled them out and dried them out with air compressor, just before installing the fuel cut switch yesterday.
Before i got my n370 ecu, i ran on n374 and i definitely know that i now run on both rotors, 100% positive
dont want to buy new plugs again![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
maybe my coil is fked up?
Before i got my n370 ecu, i ran on n374 and i definitely know that i now run on both rotors, 100% positive
dont want to buy new plugs again
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
maybe my coil is fked up?
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The starting problem sounds just like mine a little bit ago when my car would flood when sitting. The compression would drop to nothing when flooded and made it near impossible to start.
I am going to rig a cut switch but i have just been unplugging the fuel pump and now the hard starting problems are gon, it starts right up.
Now the idle i don't have a clue, though i would get the O2 sensor hooked up. I could see that making the mixture be way off.
I am going to rig a cut switch but i have just been unplugging the fuel pump and now the hard starting problems are gon, it starts right up.
Now the idle i don't have a clue, though i would get the O2 sensor hooked up. I could see that making the mixture be way off.
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#9
so you got pistons oh wow
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to me it sounds like its running on one rotor. plus it took a while to start so that reafirms my beleifs even more. I know the flooding also causes this. you say you are having problems wit the tach. that leads you to the rear coils. that is where the tach gets the signal. make sure the rear coils are doing their work. another question I have is whyy are you running an N/A pump with a turbo engine you might also not have enough fuel to run the engine.
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rice killa
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L1 goes to bottom front(radiator side)
L2 goes to bottom rear(gas tank side)
T1 goes to top front
T2 goes to top rear
correct?
the flooding causes to run on one rotor?
I checked the trailing coil couple months back and both spark plugs connected to it were firing, so i assumed the trailing coil is fine.
I run with n/a pump because i haven't bought, or don't have any more money to buy anything better yet.
ecu is stock n370 so its not tunable, no
I guess i will have to check my compression and see wtf is going on. So you guys are saying one of the rotors lost compression by the sound of it?
L2 goes to bottom rear(gas tank side)
T1 goes to top front
T2 goes to top rear
correct?
to me it sounds like its running on one rotor. plus it took a while to start so that reafirms my beleifs even more. I know the flooding also causes this. you say you are having problems wit the tach. that leads you to the rear coils. that is where the tach gets the signal. make sure the rear coils are doing their work. another question I have is whyy are you running an N/A pump with a turbo engine you might also not have enough fuel to run the engine.
I checked the trailing coil couple months back and both spark plugs connected to it were firing, so i assumed the trailing coil is fine.
I run with n/a pump because i haven't bought, or don't have any more money to buy anything better yet.
I guess i will have to check my compression and see wtf is going on. So you guys are saying one of the rotors lost compression by the sound of it?
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#21
No rotary, no problems?
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#24
No rotary, no problems?
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"Note difference in overall compression between rotors, which should be no more than 20psi max."
Notice is says MAX? That's the absolute highest you can go before it's still going to somewhat function. This would indicate a serious problem. Like I said before, I recommend a rebuild.