what would cause a car to rev slower???
#26
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Originally Posted by hondahater
could it have anything to do with my tps??? THanks! I changed the little screw that actually reduces the idle rpm while I had the tb off yesterday and it did lower the idle from abou 1200rpm to about 1000rpm would this play any factor it whats going on with this brick wall???
The TPS can only be adjusted correctly ONE WAY.
Any other deviation from this proper adjustment, and the car can run like crap.
-Ted
#27
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Originally Posted by hondahater
just took it for another drive. It has to be something I did yesterday when I took the tb off. It's not intermittant anymore, happens all the time. Anyways like I said I messed with the screw that ajustes the idle would this have anything to do with it?? Is there anything I could have done to cause this???
Do you know what you're doing???
If you have no clue what you are doing, FIND SOMEBODY THAT DOES.
-Ted
#28
I'm turning the screw that sets your idle speed up or down. Is that ok to touch that??? I always thought it was.... Anyways maybe hopefully just maybe when I took the tb off yesterday the ground for the rear rotor housing came off??? lol long shot I know but something has changed just by doing that... Oh well.
#29
Ok. Go download the factory service manual. Sit down, and readjust the idle and TPS (good idea to do both at once). Undo all the goofing around you've done.
Then proceed.
-=Russ=-
Then proceed.
-=Russ=-
#30
man I really didn't think changing the idle via the idle adjustment screw would harm anything??? I still don't think it would. Anyways here are some pics with the tb off. Does anyone know where the rear rotor housing ground is? And I don't want to hear anyone say on the rear rotor housing
Anyways see what you think of the pics (anything wrong)!
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#31
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Left picture, the ground with the "black thing" on it. Thanks for posting that, I've been looking for where that ground goes. Can anyone confirm if that's the right place for it... If so, yay!
#33
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not sure what that black thing is but that's where mine is bolted to. also i have added a 4ga wire for ground from the water pump to the right strut tower where the pressure sensor mounts to. the rear iron ground is supposed to be where the rear bolt on the hoist/TMIC bracket is.
i'm still having my problem. i haven't really tried diagnosing it just yet. been kinda busy prepping for the huricane. all my grounds are intact. we do have something a little different tho, see, i'm using 850 secondaries. which makes things run extremely rich but that's not the problem. when i get a chance, i'm gonna see if i can disable the leading coil pack and see if it does the same thing
i'm still having my problem. i haven't really tried diagnosing it just yet. been kinda busy prepping for the huricane. all my grounds are intact. we do have something a little different tho, see, i'm using 850 secondaries. which makes things run extremely rich but that's not the problem. when i get a chance, i'm gonna see if i can disable the leading coil pack and see if it does the same thing
#34
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also, you need to fix the primary fuel rail mount. there is supposed to be a black plastic spacer that goes there. there is a possibility that you can break the injector tips off if you make those bolts too tight. i have the spacer you need, i just have to find it.
#35
where is that mount supposed to go??? Is it one of my pics? Sorry to sound ignorant just never heard of that before. anyways I have 720 secondaries on mine so we aren't to far off. Thanks for the help fstrnyou I think if you diagnose the problem we may turn out to have the same exact solution (in a perfect world
) Anyways off to bed so I can wake up early and start grounding my car.
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#37
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well, i found that my timing wasn't what i thought it was, somewhere abouts 7-8 degrees retarded. setting it back to stock helped out a lot but still doesn't rev "fast" like hondahater describes his.
#38
Mine is still the same thing however with a new tps going in soon and new wires and new ignition system everything should iron out ok (fingers crossed). Anyways I will deffinatley let you guys know if this works or not. I noticed when I was unpluging my plug wires from my leading coil one of the contacts broke off from the plug wire (metal piece inside of boot). This tells me they where either getting old or maybe I just tugged to hard but I don't really think that was the case. anyways with new plug wires this may help.
#39
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It could have just been corroded to hell...Since the leading coil pack sits so close to the battery, a lot of corrosive fumes permeate it (along with the fuse box & associated wiring), so you just may have found your problem!!! Don't forget to thoroughly clean up the internal electrode sockets on the coil now
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#40
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the black thing is a condensor, i.e. a capacitor. It's a ground from the oil pressure sending unit. It grounds to the tranny at the clutch slave cylinder. It's supposed to cut down on signal noise from the sending unit. When I got my car, mine was just floating free in the engine bay, and the wire broke when I went to put it back in it's home. Doesn't seem to harm anything...
#41
ahh thanks strikland had no idea what those black things where. and thanks wayne for your input I got brand new blaster 2 coils to go with my msd box so I won't have to clean them however do you guys recomend putting in that gel stuff that helps conduct electricity??? Thanks.
#42
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I never use it, I prefer nice dry shiny metal-to-metal connections, but if you want, go ahead...That stuff's mostly used to keep moisture & corrosion out, but nothing beats a tight metal-to-metal electrical bond...
The capacitors are there to keep EMF from the ignition system from screwing with your oil pressure readings (on the slave cyl), and to keep EMF from screwing with the igniter timing signals (below the trailing coil pack), also small ones are used in your meter cluster for the same purpose...
The capacitors are there to keep EMF from the ignition system from screwing with your oil pressure readings (on the slave cyl), and to keep EMF from screwing with the igniter timing signals (below the trailing coil pack), also small ones are used in your meter cluster for the same purpose...
#43
gotcha well after already getting an after market oil pressure gauge I don't believe I need that ground however it would have been nice to see that the ground was not connected before I bought the aftermarket gauge oh well, live and learn plus after market is better anyways.
#44
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If your aftermarket gauge's sensor wire runs the same path as the OEM wiring, that cap still might help you, then again if your gauge seems to be working fine I wouldn't worry about it. Remember it's not really a ground- it only acts as a ground when a voltage spike (caused by EMF) induces a current in the wiring that would otherwise harm the circuit that the cap is protecting. Kinda like a dam on a river- normally it blocks all flow, but when the water level spikes, it allows the "excess" a path for escape...
Well, here's hoping you get her good to go
Well, here's hoping you get her good to go
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#47
ok just got the new tps in yesterday and my coils mounted and wired sunday I just have to wait for the plug wires to come in (ebay specials
) probably they should come in thursday or friday after witch I will take it for a test drive and let you know.
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#49
doesn't do it every time now just speraticly! I think its my idle messing with it really I'm going to set it lower and see what happens also with my mods I deffinatley need a front mount intercooler I'm sure the hot temps going into my engine is not good for it
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