what would cause a car to rev slower???
08-12-04, 06:50 PM
#1
what would cause a car to rev slower???
As most of you know I've been playing round with my car for quite some time trying to get it perfect before I start driving it and something struck me as wierd. I've always noticed my car rev ok but not especially quick then the other day for some reason I turn my car and and damn was it responsive. I mean I hit the gas peddle and the tack flys almost to redline (very nice!) I drove it just to see what it felt like and man was it responcive. I was even pealing out! But then I cut it off and then a bit later cut it on and it was back to same old slower rev. I still hit full boost and all just not responsive and crisp throttle responce as that one time (clearly a big differance). Would this be caused by bad grounds or by throttle plates??? Is there anything else that could cause this??? THanks!
08-12-04, 07:17 PM
#3
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Is that supposed to be wily sarcasm, Ted? Will our cars actually run with just trailing active? If it does, wouldn't it be kinda rough, like one rotor's dead?
08-12-04, 08:44 PM
#4
The mystery of the prize.
Check if your secondary double throttle plates are moving freely, they are actuated by a sprung plunger, if they don't like turning they will turn slower than they should, causing the car to be less responsive to pedal mashing, something might need some lube there... or if you want you can just do the tb mod and ditch the double throttle altogether.
08-12-04, 08:59 PM
#5
this is wierd I had already posted that I have the tb mod and I even gave pics??? Anyways I was wondering if maybe it could be a ground because now I'm getting horrible bucking and backfiring around 3500 to 4000 rpm. It's like right when the turbo kicks in hard core it does this around those rmps. Yesterday worked great however today it backfired and sputtered again. Like I said before this weekend is hopefully dedicated to regrounding everything.
08-12-04, 09:06 PM
#6
The mystery of the prize.
Originally Posted by hondahater
this is wierd I had already posted that I have the tb mod and I even gave pics??? Anyways I was wondering if maybe it could be a ground because now I'm getting horrible bucking and backfiring around 3500 to 4000 rpm. It's like right when the turbo kicks in hard core it does this around those rmps. Yesterday worked great however today it backfired and sputtered again. Like I said before this weekend is hopefully dedicated to regrounding everything.
thats what you get for starting two threads about the same subject, I didnt see your other thread til after my post in this one.
08-12-04, 09:14 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Is that supposed to be wily sarcasm, Ted? Will our cars actually run with just trailing active? If it does, wouldn't it be kinda rough, like one rotor's dead?
The engines will run with just trailings.
(Actually, it'll run with just the leadings.)
In fact, it'll crank, start, idle and run sorta kinda.
Don't believe me?
Unplug the connecter off the *ignitor* and see if you can drive the car.
No, you would think it would run rough, but it runs pretty darn well.
It just starts just a tad bit later, and it revs a little slower, especially under 3kRPM.
Once it gets over 4RPM, it feels just like normal.
If you have a turbo, the turbo will make all kinds of boost, but the engine will have no power.
-Ted
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08-12-04, 09:27 PM
#8
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i always thought that rotaries just revved slow. i'm trying to deal with that.
mine revs slow and doesn't seems to have any power below 3k. and intermittently, it'll sputter and backfire around 5k+ while boosting 9psi+
on my way to the city, doing about 55 or so, i dropped it to 4th to make a pass. boost went up to around 9psi and it started backfiring and sputtering like i had a dead rotor. a few minutes later, i kept it in fifth and let the boost go back up to 9 and it ran fine. later that night while messing with an SRT4 and WRX it ran flawlessly through all gears at 16psi. i was told that it may be a faulty injector(s), but the possibility that the leading plugs not firing is intriguing.
mine revs slow and doesn't seems to have any power below 3k. and intermittently, it'll sputter and backfire around 5k+ while boosting 9psi+
on my way to the city, doing about 55 or so, i dropped it to 4th to make a pass. boost went up to around 9psi and it started backfiring and sputtering like i had a dead rotor. a few minutes later, i kept it in fifth and let the boost go back up to 9 and it ran fine. later that night while messing with an SRT4 and WRX it ran flawlessly through all gears at 16psi. i was told that it may be a faulty injector(s), but the possibility that the leading plugs not firing is intriguing.
08-12-04, 09:28 PM
#9
strange I may need a new leading coil pack. I have had problems like you said about tones of boost but no power however I found a bad ground and think that cleared it up however now my car just hits a wall at 35 to 4000 rpm. I think its just a bad ground (hopefully) if this doesn't clear it up I'm going to change the front coils as well as try the fronts without my msd6a and then with it. Any body think its not one of these?
fstrnu. have you regrounded your car yet??? that is exactly what my car does! yesterday it was fine! I was boosting to 13psi and I wasn't even getting on it but today it hits that wall. oh and that no power below 3k is exactly what is happening to me too. However I don't think it is supposed to be that way because about 2 days ago my car was reving incredibly and actually pealing out. Like instead of that bad lack of power until 3k it actually without reving it up first before taking off I pealed out. Anyways could a msd box make a coil go bad??? I've heard of this somewhere else.
fstrnu. have you regrounded your car yet??? that is exactly what my car does! yesterday it was fine! I was boosting to 13psi and I wasn't even getting on it but today it hits that wall. oh and that no power below 3k is exactly what is happening to me too. However I don't think it is supposed to be that way because about 2 days ago my car was reving incredibly and actually pealing out. Like instead of that bad lack of power until 3k it actually without reving it up first before taking off I pealed out. Anyways could a msd box make a coil go bad??? I've heard of this somewhere else.
Last edited by hondahater; 08-12-04 at 09:34 PM.
08-12-04, 09:33 PM
#10
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Ted, I'll have to trust you on this one... I'm not going to kill my leading igniter on the drive home tonight just to see how she runs, lol...
The funny thing is, if both leading plugs fire at the same time, then one of them is actually acting as a "trailing", and the trailing in that housing is acting as a "leading". Make any sense?
The funny thing is, if both leading plugs fire at the same time, then one of them is actually acting as a "trailing", and the trailing in that housing is acting as a "leading". Make any sense?
08-12-04, 09:55 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
The funny thing is, if both leading plugs fire at the same time, then one of them is actually acting as a "trailing", and the trailing in that housing is acting as a "leading". Make any sense?
The wastespark'd leading ends up being as a Far Trailing, so each rotor face sees 3 sparks.
-Ted
08-12-04, 10:17 PM
#13
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3 sparks???Can't visualize that one in my head...Two sparks, yeh, no problem....
Sorry, Hondahater, didn't mean to hijack the thread, it's like we need a little more info, maybe some troubleshooting on your part, to narrow it down...
Sorry, Hondahater, didn't mean to hijack the thread, it's like we need a little more info, maybe some troubleshooting on your part, to narrow it down...
08-12-04, 10:29 PM
#14
well I just went out to make sure I had a good conection between the msd and coil (resoldered all connections) It used to be connected with crimpers but I took those off cleaned the connections and soldered. I even cleaned the ground from the rear rotor housing to the firewall. Nothing is working! I'm going to try and get another coild pack to see if that may be the cause. fstrnyou has the exact same problem as me but seems like his is a little bit less drastic as mine being that his problem cleared up that same night. seems like one night mine will work and the next it won't. I have new 720 secondaries from rx7.com so I know it can't be them. I'm lost! But like I said I'm regrounding this weekend hopefully so this may clear it up. it happens around the 3.5 to 4k rang only when peddle is mashed but if I lightly press on it to 5 or 6 k it is ok.
oh yeah changing fuel filter out as well.
oh yeah changing fuel filter out as well.
Last edited by hondahater; 08-12-04 at 10:32 PM.
08-12-04, 10:33 PM
#15
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Did your problems pop up AFTER to removed the crimps & soldered the connections?
Did you get larger secondaries? Maybe they're flooding you out a bit...
There are all kinds of things to check, including grounds (especially that rear rotor housing & the tranny-to-firewall jumper)...Sensor inputs to the ECU also...
Do you have an inductive timing light to check each wire for spark?
Did you get larger secondaries? Maybe they're flooding you out a bit...
There are all kinds of things to check, including grounds (especially that rear rotor housing & the tranny-to-firewall jumper)...Sensor inputs to the ECU also...
Do you have an inductive timing light to check each wire for spark?
08-12-04, 10:37 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
3 sparks???Can't visualize that one in my head...Two sparks, yeh, no problem....
There's this really neat rotary engine simulator someone programmed from SCRATCH!
Try doing a search for "simulator"...
Sorry, Hondahater, didn't mean to hijack the thread, it's like we need a little more info, maybe some troubleshooting on your part, to narrow it down...
With the motor idling, slowly pull of the spark plug boot off each coil tower.
You don't need to pull them off all the way!
You'll *hear* the sparks arcing!
If you got a CDI box install, be VERY CAREFUL - we're talking about close to 40,000 volts!
This **** hurts if it zaps you!
BTW, stock coils shoot under 20,000 volts.
Make sure all four spark plugs are firing...
-Ted
08-13-04, 01:54 AM
#17
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
IWill our cars actually run with just trailing active? If it does, wouldn't it be kinda rough, like one rotor's dead?
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
3 sparks???Can't visualize that one in my head...Two sparks, yeh, no problem...
08-13-04, 02:13 AM
#18
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removing your leading is the magical anti-det device 
but seriously. better gas mileage, emissions, and powerr are the reasons for it. 787b had 3 per rotor.
silly flame propagation...........
but seriously. better gas mileage, emissions, and powerr are the reasons for it. 787b had 3 per rotor.
silly flame propagation...........
08-13-04, 06:42 AM
#19
well my car must be fireing on all plugs because the power is deffinatley there. WHen I hat a bad ground to the msd it had the problem described with a bunch of boost but no power witch would totaly make sence. Anyways I'm searching and searching and .... oh yeah searching and one thing that seems to be common consensus is that the ecu ground is the biggest cause second being fuel filter and third being alternator. I'm going to check all of these this weekend.
08-13-04, 11:14 AM
#20
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Couldn't download it, NZ, but I think I've got it down "in my head" now...No wonder our plugs don't last worth a crap, lol...Might as well use glow plugs
Hondahater- since your problem is "on again,off again", start with the electrical side of things (grounds, intermittent connections, sensor input voltages at the ECU, etc). Fuel filter wouldn't fit this catagory. Just got through helping Harley troubleshoot his "intermittent no-start" for about 3 months, and he finally found the problem- loose connection at the ECU for one of the primary injector pins, so it happens...
Hondahater- since your problem is "on again,off again", start with the electrical side of things (grounds, intermittent connections, sensor input voltages at the ECU, etc). Fuel filter wouldn't fit this catagory. Just got through helping Harley troubleshoot his "intermittent no-start" for about 3 months, and he finally found the problem- loose connection at the ECU for one of the primary injector pins, so it happens...
08-13-04, 11:32 AM
#21
well just incase I've got an blaster 2 coil in the tool box and am bidding on another one on ebay also getting a new alternator and dual pully. Hopefully may help out if not then I'm going to reground ecu......actually no I'm doing that anyway.
08-13-04, 12:19 PM
#22
could it have anything to do with my tps??? THanks! I changed the little screw that actually reduces the idle rpm while I had the tb off yesterday and it did lower the idle from abou 1200rpm to about 1000rpm would this play any factor it whats going on with this brick wall???
Last edited by hondahater; 08-13-04 at 12:23 PM.
08-13-04, 01:22 PM
#23
just took it for another drive. It has to be something I did yesterday when I took the tb off. It's not intermittant anymore, happens all the time. Anyways like I said I messed with the screw that ajustes the idle would this have anything to do with it?? Is there anything I could have done to cause this???
08-13-04, 01:35 PM
#24
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Did you take a look at that rear rotor housing ground when you had the TB off? Would have been the perfect opportunity to do so...
Could be vac leaks also...
Why can't you idle at 750?
Have you checked the TPS electrically yet?
Could be vac leaks also...
Why can't you idle at 750?
Have you checked the TPS electrically yet?
08-13-04, 01:56 PM
#25
no I haven't, today I was idling around 750 after further adjustment. However when it does idle that low it is fluxuating not steady. My car ran perfect until I did this. Damn just have not messed with it. Anyways I'm going to take the tb off again to see if I did anything wrong but it is kinda hard to seeing as how its only four bolts. Crap I'm pissed!!!! I finaly got my car running good and I go and **** it up. GRRRRRR!