I realize this depends on climate, conditions, etc. I've always used 10w-40 myself, but I've never lived in a cooler climate than SE Virginia (well, until now). I used what was recommended by the owners manual for my conditions.

The reason I ask is, when I first moved to Charleston, SC, I met a guy there who had a rotary race car. I believe it was an old factory race car, which had a PP 13B. Anyway, he said he ran straight 30w on the track. Well, ok, so he didn't have to deal with cold startup, but I kinda thought 30w would be a little light for heavy-duty apps. He said no, he always had good pressure.

Another thing that boggles me is the recommendation by most manufacturers these days to run 5w-30. Now, I understand that the thinner oil is for reduced fuel consumption. However, at the Porsche/Mercedes/Infiniti dealer where I used to work (as a tech, if you can believe it), I remember seeing cars pushing 2k miles on 5w-30. This actually applied only to Infiniti, as Benz and Porsche always specified heavier oils.

Comments, anyone?

Ren

 

what the hell I drive an 87 sport
I use 20w-50
I konw that n/A buys should use 10w-30 but oh well

 

During the summer I used to use 20W 50, but I started using 10W 40 due to the winter, and Im not sure I will go back to 20W 50 unless I notice my oil pressure dropping in the summer. My engine was a lot smoother and had a little more power with the 10W 40.

 

My fiance is using 5W-30 in his FC right now, but prefers to use 0W-30

 

Yep, I prefer to use 0W-30 in my cars.

 

My first oil i was using was castrol 10W40, then i switchted to Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50 (my oil pressure was always 90+). Now i have my car here in this ******* winter, i`m using some kind of castrol 15W40 (i`m not sure right now ;o) and my oil presurre isn`t really good....well...lot of things isn`t really good.....Oils are like 10x more expensive than in USA and they don`t have here that Valvoline VR1 Racing which i liked....

 

I'm also using the 20w-50 summer and 10w-40 winter weights. I'm not as concerned with the minor amounts of HP difference and fuel mileage as I am with keeping the motor as well protected as possible. Just my view of the sitiation

 

Wow, the old motor oil question!!!!!!!

Motor oil has been a hobbie of mine for many years, but only in the last five have I had a rotory!!!There is a difference!!!!!

I have an 87 N/T which I purchased with 148,000 Mi, and now has 250,000, and it still runs great, but I am getting a little nervous!!!!!!

The first owner used 10/30, with regular changes,and when I got it I started useing 20/50 valvoline or Castrol. As you can see, dos`nt seem to make a lot of difference!!!!

However, some things do!!! I think in a turbo rotory a synthetic blend or full synthetic would be best, 5/50 Mobil 1, just for the sake of the tourbo, nothing else, and oh by the way the synthetics do burn clean!
That`s a MYTH!!!

Something else regular racing oils have too high of a zink content and cause sparkplug fowling, but no other ill effects!!

Castrol is a well balanced oil as is Valvoline Turbo, chose your own weight by climate!!

15/40 diesel oils {delo 400} have a place also, they are very high detergent and for one oil change have about the same effect as the ATF treatment!! Diesel oil also has a high zink content an is`nt good for continued use!! Try it, your car will start running smoother in about a week!!!

Now there is some food for thought!!

Why listen to me???You surely don`t have to, but I`ve been a mechanic of sorts for 25 years, and been studying oils for most of that time, but you be the judge,I would also like more input as I still don`t know it all!!!

HUMMER


Oh , by the way, I`m back to 10/30 for the winter!! {Castrol}

 

20w 50 in the texas summer heat and 10w 30 in the winter.

 

LOL I just realized you were female.

 

use the heaviest weight you can find that condition allow !

 

Divinol 20W-50. Thats what all Mazda dealers and shops use, so...

 

MuHAhhahA
Sheez, put my name in the listings???



-Ted

 

 

In Florida - 140k 20w50

 

What's the benefits to using a heavy *** oil as 20w50? Won't the engine have to work harder to pump it around?

 

Heavier weight= higher viscoscity
Less wieght=thinner

Wouldn't the thin stuff heat up too much after hard runs?
Would the thick stuff retain the heat after hard runs?
Hows about pumping thick v. thin through turbos?

I don't think its necessarily what we use, it should be why we use it.

Anyone got answers?

 

This is a great sight to find out a few things about motor oil!!!


All you ever wanted to know about motor oil!


http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html


HUMMER

 

I use 20W50 year around.

 

According to mazda you should be using 20W50 for any rotary, that does not see below 0F (or -17C).

 

The sticker under the hood says 10w 30 in my temperature, so thats what i use.

Jim , 87 t2

 

i use castrol 20-50 all year round and I run premix on a regular basis. I believe that 20-50 does a lot of good. How many peope drive there rx-7's like grandmas!!! Not me.....

I've done some tests.. I used to use 10-30, but after hard runs, even in colder temps, I would check my oil and I couldnt tell where it was at. the oil was so damn thin it would basically slide off the dip stick before I pullled it out...

castrol 20-50 is the ****, When I first took it to the track and did several hard runs, and then I checked my oil again, it wasnt thin, you could actually see the oil on the dipstick....

I dunno, I would think the thicker the oil the better lub job it does.....

 

Years ago I ruined a Ford Ranger by running Pennzoil in it. The engine looked like it had been painted with varnish on the inside and sludge was everywhere. This was is spite of regular 3000 mile oil changes.

Since then (1980) I have used Castrol exclusively. I believe it is among the better oils available. My rex gets 20W-50 year 'round.

 

20w-50 in mine, just because it's a turbo, so i guess it'll keep both the engine and turbo cooler...? and plus, i run hard sometimes (like redlining almost)

but then again... doesn't matter what i use anymore, since the car is screwed up now...

 

Er, that should have read 200k miles, not 2k. That would be pretty crappy for a life expectancy...

Ren