Well im planning on running street ported and i would like to make 600hp on around 25psi, ive been doing my research and the turbo that ive been liking is the GT42r but my concern is, will it spool quick enough for street use?
this will be my almost everyday street driven car and my weekend dragster. =) ive been seeing all these videos but everyone runs them on bridge port will a street port affect spooling compared to bridge for this turbo?? the other turbo on my mind was the GTK 1000, i kno they make like 30hp less but quiker spooling. can anyone help me out to make a more educated decision. thnx

will be running on microtech, and methanol injection.

 

a 600hp turbo fc is definitely not a good idea to have as a daily driver.

check out the single turbo section of the forum.

 

Anything over 500 whp on the street is a horrible idea. Do you really want to drive around with slicks all the time just to be able to keep traction? and I though anything over 400 hp on a rotary starts to become unreliable.

 

Why do you want 600 HP? What is the highest Hp car you have ever driven and was it boosted?

Take the idea of 'spool quick' out of your vocabulary if you want 600 HP on a rotary.

You won't have 'spool' you will have onset of boost that is more like a light switch, or an explosion of power.

This won't be fun, safe or livable on the street.

 

you can make that power on the street, just have a backup car. and be prepared to wait for the power a bit.

 

The best method to make 600hp with a street rotary is to use a street-ported 20B with a GT42R. With only a 13B you can forget about a quick spool with any turbo that supports 600hp, and a bridge port makes for a horrible daily driver.

See an example of a 600hp street ported 13B streetable car at the bottom of this page:
http://www.pfsupercars.com/projects/

 

lol sorry about that, the highest horsepower car that ive driven would be my dads rx7 first gen, its bridge ported 800cc primary 1600cc secondary T66 ball bearing turbonetics on 16psi i believe, thats my daily driver since my car is getting prepped for paint and i gotta say its fun to drive and catches boost fairly quick ive ran it at the track and made a 7.3 at the 1/8mile really fun car

Im not looking to race it at the street, i want it for the track mostly but cruising it on the street, my college is not even 5min away from my house so you get the idea, i kno its dangerous but im pretty sure i can live with it. That exposion of power sounds fun

 

you have a great point but a 20b is not an option right now =/ i wish though, i was thinking of using some 285 35 18 nittos drag radials(currently using 275 street tires at the rear). what do you think about those drag radials? only for street though, gonna get some slicks for the track

 

learn how to drive your car thats my personal opinion then think about it hahahahahhahahah lol jk

 

If you have a 600RWHP rotary you will be working on it all week in order to race it on the weekends, not driving it around all week...

Now if there are any 600RWHP rotary owners that say otherwise I am eager to hear it!

I know you can drive a 600RWHP on the streets reliably enough since you won't be using the power, but does anyone claim a 600RWHP rotary that is raced will be reliable enough to be running when not racing?

 

A 20B is going to be cheaper in the long run then doing this with a 13B.

 

pretty much..

 

a 20b would be great but i have the 13b already on the car with 8k into the engine, what im going to do is buy a microtech that supports a 20b just incase if i get a 20b in the future. how long do you think the 13b would last with this amount of pressure inside? i was expecting a couple of years seeing as my father has had his setup for 5years now and going id be happy with 3yrs if anything but i kno it depends alot on the tune and how its been built (we build our own engines so hopefully the same dedication that went into my fathers will go to mine. )

 

Sorry, I don't drag race, so I really don't know about that.

Mmm, I think the 13B-configured LTX-12 needs to be sent back to Austrailia with a fee for reconfiguration to convert it to run a 20B. You may want to check on this.

Not very long.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/album.php?al...ictureid=11171

 

ok so you got a 666rwhp FC.. Tell the guy how it drives? is the 18psi on pump and the 23psi on race gas? or is 18 on pump also.

nice full boost by 4200, i could live with that.

 

sounds like a pipe dream where in miami are you?


Does the stock drive train even handle that...even the FD guys are running cobra rear ends

 

Thats a customers car. 18/23psi runs are on race gas.

@ 13psi it blew out 4th gear at the track and still did a low 11 sec pass..

 

**** it. I'll throw some stuff out here.

1000/1680 injectors with an adjustable FPR, with over 40 psi base pressure. I'm a firm believer that dual fuel pumps should only be used when necessary, but I think here it's going to be necessary or at least very helpful. You might want to do the parallel fuel rail plumbing mod as well. Otherwise you'll have to use one of the really high flowing single pumps like the Bosch -044.

Then consider the GT4202R, but see if you can go with the T4 frame instead of the T6 to keep the spool decent. Get an FMIC if you have already. You'll probably want a divided long runner stainless manifold and 60mm wastegate, or dual 44's. You'll need a pretty good size FMIC core (consider one made by Garrett, not an ebay core for that power level) and I bet at least 2.75" intercooler piping with all the high quality clamps and couplers. Vibrant performance makes good stuff.

You'll need at least 25psi or so for this, so either have race fuel or a solid methanol injection setup. Aquamist is common. Ignition mods... well this is debateable. A lot of people have had really good luck with factory FC ignition and HKS twin power (myself included). FD owners swap in FC coils and make over 500 with them a lot. Other people would tell you to ditch the entire ignition system and go with something else. I like the stock BUR9EQ plugs and I think they're great for over 400 to the wheels, but at this point you'll probably want the Greddy race plugs.

For driveability and street manners, I recommend you keep a quieter dual exhaust (like the 3" RB) and recirculate the wastegate. Keep the BAC valve, fast idle system, and dashpot. Do not use an unsprung clutch.

Oh and get a damn good tuner who will do a lot of street driving with you. You'll want a high end wideband preferably with an NTK sensor and dual EGT probes for each exhaust manifold runner.


That's all gotta be at least $10k there. The turbo and the fuel system will be close to 4 or 5 grand alone. Manifold and wastegate(s) will be 2 grand at least. Tuning, gauges, and engine management will probably be $3k or more. It just keeps adding up. And I'm assuming you're doing all the labor for everything except tuning and exhaust/turbo manifold fabrication.

 

Which is about where my car hits full boost and my car is quite easy to drive on the street. Not sure where everyone is getting this 20b bullshit from...

 

Dude, your prices are WAAAAY too high...

 

I can't speak for the others, but where I'm trying to go is that it will be far easier to make this power reliably on a 20B then a 13B. The initial hurdle of actually mounting the engine over with, the rest of the mods are the same. For the novice, it seems like a better choice in my mind.

 

I disagree completely.. All it takes is some ingenuity and a little know how. Not too mention (and I hate to say this) but the even EASIER (and cheaper) way to get a relaible 600 would be an LSx swap.

 

Yeah, but who wants an LS1? If I wanted an LS1 I'd put it in something like a Fox body mustang to **** people off at shows. Then again, a 20B in the same chassis with one of those independent suspension kits would be sweet.

I just wonder how many 13Bs a beginner has to go through to make 600RWHP?

 

Those prices are pretty close to what I paid for new parts built to support about the same horsepower level, although I am sure that one could get used parts for much cheaper. If you think new parts are WAAAY cheaper then you obviously do not track all of your expenses. You can hide your expenses from your wife, but you can't hide your expenses from Quicken.