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What triggers the fan temp light on a 5 speed?

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Old 05-08-06, 10:52 AM
  #26  
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It seems some changes NEED to be made to the instrument harness. I see where the speed sensor isn't going to work since the series four and five wires are in different holes on the C0-1 plug.

It SEEMS you could print out a series four instrument cluster picture with the plugs and compare it with a series five and swap wires as required.

Personally I would put the series five n/a instrument gauges back in the car. All you gain???? gain????? with a turbo instrument cluster, is a boost sensor and lose a VOLT meter. Not a good tit for tat in my opinion. I miss a volt gauge in my stock turbo car (RTEK2.0 fills the void).
Old 05-08-06, 11:23 AM
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Ok lets clear a few things up and again i thank you very much for trying to figure this out with me. My car ran fine with no problems for about 6 months and about a month now with the new motor. The cluster works 100% and it came in the car when i got it, along with a full TII drivetrain but n/a motor. that why i wasn't sure if it was an s4 cluster but the thats what the guy said. Also I just went and unplugged the wire on top of the rad. The add coolant light in the idiot/clock cluster came on along with the loud annoying buzzer after about 10 seconds. So that seems to be operating as planned. Also the red light is still on even with my jspec ecu and the good oil pump plugged in but not installed. Also the car is back to running fine so it must have been the oil pump. Im going to test the mop as per the fsm right now to see if it indeed bad. If it tests ok Im going to get real worried. Becouse then where pretty much back to square one.
Old 05-08-06, 11:47 AM
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The only way I could tell what is wrong is to take off the C0-1 plug and compare the wire colors to the S4 and S5 pinouts. Either that or find the other end of the Instrument harness where there is a single rectangular plug and compare those wires with the pinouts in the S5 manual.

It's possible the previous owner already did a pin swap on one end of the instrument harness or the other. That's the only way a S4 instrument cluster would have everything working. Expect he seems to have missed a wire,. The one that is turning on the FAN light.

Too many wires have been swapped to figure it out from here. IceMark has written a pinout of S4 to S5 instrument harnesses. How to swap etc. The previous owner MUST have swapped wires in the harness plugs for everything to work on a S4 instrument.
Old 05-08-06, 12:24 PM
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well again thank you for the help and ill keep this thread updated until the problem is totally fixed. As for the mop the sensor didn't give the right resistances so it is toast. After all this i think im going to go premix. I dont want to have to go throught this again. Any comments on premixing? Do you premix?
Old 05-08-06, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
The only way I could tell what is wrong is to take off the C0-1 plug and compare the wire colors to the S4 and S5 pinouts. Either that or find the other end of the Instrument harness where there is a single rectangular plug and compare those wires with the pinouts in the S5 manual.

It's possible the previous owner already did a pin swap on one end of the instrument harness or the other. That's the only way a S4 instrument cluster would have everything working. Expect he seems to have missed a wire,. The one that is turning on the FAN light.

Too many wires have been swapped to figure it out from here. IceMark has written a pinout of S4 to S5 instrument harnesses. How to swap etc. The previous owner MUST have swapped wires in the harness plugs for everything to work on a S4 instrument.

Yep, You can't use a S4 gauge harness in a S5 car unless the harness has been repin'd and it sounds like a wire got missed.
Old 05-08-06, 02:42 PM
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if i describe the actions of the light could you maybe take an educated guess on what wire may have been missed or miss pinned? Basically the light would never light. If i put the key in any position. the only time it would light is when i would pull the egi fuses to unflood my engine. That along with the fact that it came on when my car started running like crap seems to me like it has something to do with the coils or injectors. But maybe not.

*Edit: also it would be ok to run my car with the bum mop setup still installed and the good one plugged into my harness as long as i start premixing right? Just until my block off plate comes.
Old 05-08-06, 03:32 PM
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The only way your going to find out is to pull the CO-1 plug apart and find what is in the socket that has that BR wire. Once you find what color wire is really there, then you'd have to go to the other end of that Instrument harness and find which socket that wire is inserted into.

Once that is determined it won't take any time at all to find out where the other end is and what is there.

The instrument harness isn't that long from the meter where there are two plugs and to the other end where there is ONE plug.

I wonder if they used a turbo emission harness or used the na one. There might be a diff.
Old 05-08-06, 03:49 PM
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I will def. pull apart the dash and try and figure out what wire is in that spot. I just cant do it today. I have one last exam and i need to do good. So after that ill be on break and i can rip that bitch apart.
Old 05-09-06, 11:21 AM
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ok i got it apart. What color plug is it in? The white or the black?
Old 05-09-06, 11:47 AM
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Got me. I'm not going to remove my cluster to find out.

I jpg a series five and a series four. Does one of them look like EITHER? You look at the pinout from the WIRE side of the plug.

Series four FSM says it's the outboard plug. Series five says the inboard. So compare the jpgs with your plugs. If you will write down the colors of yours counting from the top clockwise and put it in your next post.

There's a chance that the wires could have been swapped at the other end of the harness, but, we'll see.
Old 05-09-06, 11:51 AM
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ok i took the harness out of the car. The one that i matched up to be the wire is a blue with black strip with 2 close silver marks. It didn't terminate at the other end so i took off the loom. I was spliced into a blue with black strip and single silver mark. If you hold the rectangular plug with the push button clip part on top. This wire goes to last pin on the bttom right. Im not really sure if thats it but when i look at the diagram it seemed to be the right one. SO where the heck is it going to?
Old 05-09-06, 12:05 PM
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ok here are the wire colors.
White Plug looking at it from the wire side. Rectangle thing on the outside rim facing up
Going clock wise
red/blue strip single silver, empty, brown/red strip 2 silver marks, blue/black strip 2 silver marks, red/blue strip single silver mark, thick red/ white strip 2 silver marks, empty, all black single silver mark, black/ yellow strip single silver mark, green/ red strip 2 silver marks, blue/black strip single silver mark, empty, empty, back to the first one.

Black Plug same orientation and direction of wires.
blue/white strip 2 silver, all green 2 silver, tan/ white strip 2 silver, tan/ blue strip 2 silver, brown/ balck strip 2 silver, brown/white strip 2 silver, green/yellow strip 2 silver, all black single silver, white/green strip 2 silver, green/white strip 2 silver, green/black strip 2 silver, tan/red strip 2 silver.

Let me know which ones you need to know where they are at the other end.
Old 05-09-06, 12:15 PM
  #38  
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ok the wire that lights up the light is in the white harness. I plugged both plugs back into the cluster. Unplugged the black one will i was keyed on and the light was still lite. Unplugged the white and it went out. Plugged in the black alone nothing. Plugged in the white alone. Light went on. So we narrowed down the search to the white plug. the white plug plugs in the center of the clusterwhere as the black plug is right behind the fuel boost etc. guages.

*Edit: a side note. when my mop went it screwed up my Knight sport ecu. there is a switch on the side for stock and chipped mode. The car no longer will run in chipped mode. And that what it was in when the mop went. It runs fine in stock mode on the ecu.

Last edited by driftin8ez; 05-09-06 at 12:20 PM.
Old 05-09-06, 12:19 PM
  #39  
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Blue with a Black stripe is L/B. Attached jpg shows there should indeed be two L/B spliced together. It's for the milage sensor.

I'm a little busy today and will be slow to respond, so anybody that cares to chirp in, have at it. I'll look at the pinout you just posted and respond later.

Is this Blue/Black wire where the RB is in the attached jpg of the series four??? At the top of the picture at one o'clock?
Attached Thumbnails What triggers the fan temp light on a 5 speed?-blueblack.jpg   What triggers the fan temp light on a 5 speed?-seriesfour.jpg  
Old 05-09-06, 12:35 PM
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I meant BR NOT RB.
Old 05-09-06, 12:55 PM
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ok if i look at that diagram these are the one that match
1,2,3,5,6,7,8,11,12

4 there is a blue/black strip single silver
9 brown red
10 blue/black strip 2 silver marks
Old 05-09-06, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I meant BR NOT RB.
ya i figured that.
Old 05-09-06, 01:11 PM
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ok i did a little more testing. Couple of things. If i depin the wire that is in space 4 the liight doesn't light when i plug it in and key on. However a few seconds later the buzzer in the cluster starts going off???? Now if i repin it and plug it in it lights up and no buzzer. Also if i plug the white connector into the other space on the back of the cluster with the wire depinned or not the light will light??????????? Now if i plug the black one in it wont light it up from that connector so that seems a little crazy to me.
Old 05-09-06, 03:55 PM
  #44  
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Sorry about the dark/grey jpg out of the S5. It's a copy of a PhotoBucket FSM and ......well it does not work when scanned.

LIke I say, The Blue/Black are both tied to the 20,000 miles switch inside the cluster. Personally I'd depin the one from #4 so that light does not come on ever again, since you don't have a auxillary fan anyway. I THINK the 20,000 mile switch puts a gnd on a ECU pin and that is related to Emissions, but only emissions for the first 20,000 miles. A gnd AFTER 20,000 miles if memory serves.

I'll look some more later, but then again, you don't want anyting to go to the #4 since you don't have a fan.


EDIT: NOW that is odd. That LB is in#4 where, on a S5 the water level input wire would be. But if you pull the wire out, and install the plug, you get a buzzer. Almost makes me think you have a S5 instrument panel.....and it's saying your level is low. But .....................

Last edited by HAILERS; 05-09-06 at 04:01 PM.
Old 05-09-06, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Sorry about the dark/grey jpg out of the S5. It's a copy of a PhotoBucket FSM and ......well it does not work when scanned.

LIke I say, The Blue/Black are both tied to the 20,000 miles switch inside the cluster. Personally I'd depin the one from #4 so that light does not come on ever again, since you don't have a auxillary fan anyway. I THINK the 20,000 mile switch puts a gnd on a ECU pin and that is related to Emissions, but only emissions for the first 20,000 miles. A gnd AFTER 20,000 miles if memory serves.

I'll look some more later, but then again, you don't want anyting to go to the #4 since you don't have a fan.


EDIT: NOW that is odd. That LB is in#4 where, on a S5 the water level input wire would be. But if you pull the wire out, and install the plug, you get a buzzer. Almost makes me think you have a S5 instrument panel.....and it's saying your level is low. But .....................
i know it is all very strange. I just dont get it. The empty spaces and most of the wires match exactly with the s4 wiring diagram. Did you say something about the white plug being plugged in closer to the edge of the cluster on the s4? Mine the plugs go like this. Black,white, speedo cable. do you remeber if those are the same locations on your cluster?
Old 05-09-06, 08:02 PM
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The series four fsm shows CO-1 outboard.

The series five shows CO-1 as the inboard plug.

I think you've the right plugs going to the right place. About 80 percent sure.

I'm going to think about it later on. I've gotta re-read what you said above.

The way I understand it, if you remove the wire from position four, you end up getting a buzzer sound, so that's not a option.

Does your cruise control work? It's relevant in a way. The water gauge works? Fuel gauge? I understand everything works but that light is driving you batty. Again, for your car, nothing should be in position 4 since it's a series four instrument cluster. I need to stare at the series four and five instrument panels in the wiring diagrams.

Question: That Blue/Black wire that is spliced to another Blue/Black.............tell me, at the other end of the harness it terminates in a plug half that mates with another. What is the color of the wire it mates with in the *other* half of the connector?
Old 05-09-06, 08:18 PM
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my cruise control did work when i had my n/a in. Everything else on my car was the same i basically i swapped in a s5 13bt long block. Same wiring hareness from my n/a. I have since removed the switch and the cruise control thing under the hood. but it worked with the cluster. if that what you are wondering. also to answer you question. It is real hard to see the color of the wire it connects to on the other end of the harness becouse it is pretty far under the dash. Ill try again to see what color it is tom. It is to dark right now to do anything.
Old 05-09-06, 09:02 PM
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Small progress: The power for the lights comes from one plug, soooooo if disconnected there will be no lights. That might tie in with one puzzelment you had on a post above.

Secondly, I did not really realize that the plugs being called the opposite on S4 and S5 are part of MY problem. Also the center *key way* is different b/t the two pictures I've been looking at. Sooooo, you may be right about me being on the wrong plug so to speak.

Work in progress
Old 05-09-06, 09:12 PM
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so where does this leave us. Do we even know which pin on the back of the cluster lights up that stupid light. If we can get what pin light up that light. Than we can back trap all the way to the source. At least i would thing. Would it be valuable to see if the light will light when the key is on with the ecu unplugged? Also im almost positive that whateven wire makes the light turn on is the white plug. Becouse with only the both or only the white plugged in the light stays on. with just the black i get nothing form the light.
Old 05-09-06, 09:42 PM
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Yeah. Look at that series four pinout of the plug. Look at the keyway in the center of the plug.

Then hold your cars plug in the same position as the picture, with the keyways the same.

Now, is the BR in the series four picture a LB or blue/black wire still?? I think it probably is but I wasn't paying attention in your earlier post.

The keyways being the small circle in the center of the plug with the tit and half square looking thing.

I can see where if you wired a S4 into a S5 car where the best place to swap wires would be at the other end of the connector and not at the round plugs themselves.

Also I find the Photbucket page C-2 mis ID's the boost gauge as a milage sensor.

We are making progress. More time required and the question above about the LB wire being answered.


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