driftin8ez

Just a background. my ignition is back to stock for anyone helping me with my msd threads. Anyway yesterday i install an fd fuel pump take it around the block for a spin feels great. Later that night i take her out for a cruise around town. Maybe 25mins into the cruise the fan temp light turns???? So im like what the hell. My temp guage says normal temp. My efan isn't on and it has a temp probe on it so i belive it wasn't over heating. So i pull over and the car is running like ****. Only way i can explain it is that it is running like when you do water treatment. Rough no power and wants to stall. SO i hold the revs to like 2500 and shut it off so it doesn't flood. I pop the hood. No bubbling coolant or anything out of the ordinary taht i could see. SO i limp the car home. any ideas on what the heck happened. Maybe i just got some bad gas or something so im going to get a 5 gallons and pour it in see if that helps. Also no smoke what so ever the whole ride home. Coolant level is normal and no coolant buzzer.




*Edit: Just went out and checked. All coils are firing. Problem is still present.

HAILERS

The Cooling Fan Control Unit when the Water Temp Switch on the thermostat housing sees over 207 degrees OR the connector on the temp switch falls off.

It even does it if you strip four of the five gears in the transmission. humor

driftin8ez

well i'll start there. Becouse the light lights up now. When i just go out and turn the key to the on position. The car is dead cold. fingers crossed.

driftin8ez

would that switch being messed up make my car nearly impossible to drive? Revs like **** no power at all. I did a ghetto compression test and it gave the normal 6 pulses.

HAILERS

Nope, won't effect the engine running at all.

A series five that has no power and won't rev very well is usually the electric oil metering pump being bad. You should check for codes and see if one of them is a omp failure. I forget what number that is, especially since I've a S4 that does not have a electric omp.

Then again it could be another thing alltogether. LIke having the trail plugs swapped around b/t T1 and T2. Or the Leads not firing at all. Idle the car and pull one lead wire out of the coil bore and see if its sparking or not.

And you need to say just when this problem arose. Did the car Ever run right? Did you do something b/t the time it ran right and now?

driftin8ez

i have a jspec ecu. I though i read somewhere you cant pull codes ona jspec ecu. Am i wrong?

HAILERS

That does not sound right, but I don't own one. I'd bet a few bucks that is not right. You don't get a engine fail light?? Ever?

Pull the plug off the boost sensor and that should kick a engine fail light or whatever it's called.

I added to my first post. Look.

driftin8ez

car ran great. I changed out the tii fuel pump for an fd fuel pump just to be safe. i have intake and exhaust. Drove the car for 20 mins no beating. car felt a little funny radio was blasting. looked down. Fan temp light was on. Pulled over shut down the car. Popped the hood saw my efan wasn't on. I tweaked the switch to get it to turn on at a lower temp. Limped the car home. It wont idle. Also had a friend hold it a 2k will i checked for spark on all coils. the fuel pump either works or doesn't right? maybe it was installed wrong? however i swapped out my n/a for a tii and i installed it correctly that time.

*Edit: also when i limped it home there was no smoke what so ever. If it was the coolant seals for the car to run this bad you would see at least a little smoke right?

driftin8ez

ok i've been doing some reading. It think my car is in limp home mode. my omp must have failed. Now i have an omp from my n/a motor, both s5. can i use that on my 13bt? also if i just plug in a working omp should my car run fine or do i have to actually install it?

HAILERS

From what I've read on this forum, you can just plug it in and that is enough.

During all this, did the water temp gauge ever get pegged?

You have a stock fan or/????? Aftermarket electric fan plus the auxillary fan in front of the radiator?????????

driftin8ez

temp guage never past half way. The whole time it was where it is during normal day to day driving. about 1/3 the way up. I have only a escort efan with a temp probe in the rad. Regardless of what the temp guage said the fan would have turned on if it was truely over heating. I have the fan set perfect. Doesn't turn on during normal driving, Only when beating on it or if you at a stop light or traffic for about 5 mins. I had to turn the switch to a lower temp to get it to go on. Just so i knew it wouldn't over heat. Like say the temp guage broke or something.

so here is why i think im in limp mode. Suddenly barely enough power to get going and i was cruising at like 2500 rpm. Wouldn't pass the 3k easily. Seems like it was on one rotor. But there was no smoke and the car seemed like it was getting a water treatment. pulled the plugs and did a ghetto compression test and both rotors seem to have the same compression they always did. Any thoughts from someone who actually had a car go into limp mode or if the s5 n/a and TII mop are the same?

driftin8ez

Please read the post before this one first. I would have edited this in after but the button was gone.


ok i plugged in my spare n/a mop and put my old tii fuel pump back in car runs exactly the same. I have to figure out what the heck i triggering that stupid light on the temp guage. This hole thing started when that thing lite up. Prior to this it never turned on. The only time i saw it on was when i would pull both the egi fuses to unflood the car. so does this light being lite somehow have something to do with the ignition? I already checked and all the coils ar giving spark. I tried to start the car about 5 times now and only let it run for a few second each time. It hasn't flooded and it starts up the the usual amount of time it would take, like 3 or 4 seconds.

driftin8ez

ok im back again. New test. N/a omp plus n/a ecu. Runs better that before. No more water treatment symtoms. Runs just about as good as an n/a ecu can run. I dont think it can be much good to run the motor on an n/a ecu so i shut it off after i decided that it was back to normal. So now i have to by an ecu but hopefully that omp can work. Well that sucks. oh ya and the n/a ecu was throwing so many codes at me i couldn't remember them all. But that just confirms that the jspec ecu doesn't support the check engine light. Funny thing was the temp light is still on ever though the engimne seemed to run fine. So how do i figure out what is triggering that?

driftin8ez

one more update than ill let some1 else talk. Ok here was the new test. N/A mop and get this my Jspec TII ecu! The car ran and idled normally. I just didn't want to let it run for long becouse there was no oil pump. The wierd part is that stupid light is still on???? Any thoughts?

HAILERS

What are the EXACT words on this light and exactly where is the location of this light?

The aux fan temp switch is on the thermostat housing. Any time you remove the single green/black wire off it the fan should run if the key is ON and the idiot light should alight.

Ground that single green/black wire and the aux fan should stop and the light go out.

driftin8ez

i dont have this aux fan. It only came on autos becouse the trans cooler was inside the rad. The light is the little red light top right inside the temp guage.

HAILERS

Do you have the temperature switch on top of the thermostat housing? Does it have the green/black wire on it?

driftin8ez

I have an s5 so the tstat housing is plastic. There are no sensor on it. However on the back of the water pump housing i have the thermosensor connected. It is a grean plug with 2 wires. one is i think black the other im not sure. I looked in the fsm and i dont have a connector on my harness or the plug on the back of the water pump housing for the aux. fan. My waterpump housing isn't even tapped in the place the thermoSWITCH is supposed to screw into. Im so stumped right now. I wired that hole engine myself when i did the swap. By that i mean i plugged the harness in to the proper sensors. There is only like what 5 or so sensors on the whole motor. It just puzzles me why it would light up when i would pull both egi fuses to unflood my car and now that im having trouble with something igntion or maybe fuel related the light is staying on. It also stays on with both ecus, omp, and both thermosensors plugged in, leading me to believe there is something wrong with a relay or sensor or somthing not on the motor itself.

driftin8ez

also i forgot to mention i have an s5 n/a converted to turbo with what i belive is an s4 turbo II instument cluster. Any ideas what could be triggering this light?

HAILERS

According to the Series five online FSM, there is no Cooling Fan light in the series five Warning Cluster.

So I'd say the S4 and S5 warning cluster wiring just are not the same. Your S4 Warning Cluster is picking up another signal other than the Fan Waring.

EDIT: OOOPS, light is in the TEMP GAUGE. Later I've another answer closer to the real deal.

HAILERS

The series five FSM shows no such light in the instrument cluster or the Warning Light Cluster. At least I don't see it.

The series four Turbo instrument cluster should have a BR in plug CO-1 that feeds that light. See the online series four FSM wiring diagram.

I'm going to give up on this. The best I can come up with is it, the signal from the light is coming from the ABS system IF YOU HAVE ONE, and it's the BR wire on the X-11 connector which is a Front to Instrument interface plug. See the FSM for a S4. I'm looking at a 87FSM and it's a touch different than the online 88FSM. Mostly in what they call a given plug i.e. reference designators, even though the plugs are the same item.

HAILERS

IF you have ABS pull the plug off the ABS unit and see if the light goes out. Then again you have a combination of S4/S5 harness and it could be another thing and I'm not interested in figuring out the wiring b/t the plugs for S4/S5 for this.

HAILERS

That sprung a idea that is the FINAL SOLUTION. Attached are two jpg. One of the S5 instrument cluster plug and one of the S4 instrument plug.

It shows that the S4 instrument cluster is fed the COOLING FAN signal on a pin that is BR at the top of the plug.

It shows that the S5 plug, at the same connector and same pin, would be receiving a Coolant Level Signal on that pin.

That's why I'm going to say that the light is lighting up because of a Low Water Level signal.

driftin8ez

Ok ill look further into that. You may be on to something big here. my coolant level seemed fine but i will check again. Also i dont have abs so that shouldn't be it. Could i have blown a coolant seal? The hole way limping home there was no smoke at all.

HAILERS

Things don't quite work like that. The coolant level sensor wire usually goes to the Coolant Level UNIT in the instrument cluster which in turn sends a low signal from the instrument cluster to the Warning Light Cluster to turn the light on in the WArning cluster.

In this case just removing the wire from the level sender on the radiator should turn the light off that is the FAN light in the instrument cluster. That light is looking for a gnd and the level SENDER is giving it that gnd.

IF removing the wire from the level sender does nothing, ohm out the level sender wire to the CO-1 plug socket called BR in the series four diagram and see what you come up with.

Actually this gets a little wormy if you start wondering about if your water level sensor is working on the car or not. Have you seen that water low light come on??? With the engine change/wiring change? Evidently not or you would have mentioned it.

I still think the clue is the printout of the two plugs I attached above.