what is too high of a water temp?
#27
Old Rotary Dog
I don't completely buy the "if the thermostat sticks closed" argument either. If anything, the needle sitting below 100F after you've had your car running for five minutes tells you quite a bit, especially if the stock gauge is telling you it's at operating temps.
If you are paying attention to what the gauge is telling you, then you're set. If you are not paying attention, then all the gauges in the world aren't going to help you a bit.
-bill
#28
Old Rotary Dog
The back line is such a pain to get to that if I ever have a new engine built I'll just have that nipple replaced with a plug (at least for the track car).
-b
#29
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
Well. It was 108 yesterday and they are claiming 110-113 today.
My car holds around 200 on regular streets with moderate load.
Highway 80mph constant load I see around 210-215.
Bursts of load have generated around 235 but I immediately let off and try and make less load to let it cool down.
Not having heat shields is no bueno
My car holds around 200 on regular streets with moderate load.
Highway 80mph constant load I see around 210-215.
Bursts of load have generated around 235 but I immediately let off and try and make less load to let it cool down.
Not having heat shields is no bueno
#30
W. TX chirpin Monkey
Join Date: Sep 2001
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Ted:
I'm running a Haltech with an Elelctric Fan. My radiator I think you're somewhat familiar with, since it's a K2RD crossflow. Now as far as my thermostat it's a 160*F unit from a mustang that I've drilled a 3/32" bypass, and removed the little pellet that was there. I've seen engines let go after hitting 225-230*. stock coolant seals. The fact that some go to those temps repeatedly impresses me.
I'm running a Haltech with an Elelctric Fan. My radiator I think you're somewhat familiar with, since it's a K2RD crossflow. Now as far as my thermostat it's a 160*F unit from a mustang that I've drilled a 3/32" bypass, and removed the little pellet that was there. I've seen engines let go after hitting 225-230*. stock coolant seals. The fact that some go to those temps repeatedly impresses me.
#31
Lives on the Forum
I'm running a Haltech with an Elelctric Fan. My radiator I think you're somewhat familiar with, since it's a K2RD crossflow. Now as far as my thermostat it's a 160*F unit from a mustang that I've drilled a 3/32" bypass, and removed the little pellet that was there. I've seen engines let go after hitting 225-230*. stock coolant seals. The fact that some go to those temps repeatedly impresses me.
The GM sensors are notorious for being off, and the Haltech temp numbers are not very accurate.
-Ted
#32
Beast Mode
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I know this thread died almost a month ago but I've asked this question before in other threads and I've also done A LOT of research on this as well and I still cant find an answer to why my temps run hot.
Here's what I'm running..... new OEM thermostat, new OEM water pump, Koyo radiator, Ford Taurus 2 speed fan, GP Sport front bumper, Greedy 2 row FMIC, stock oil cooler, both upper and lower radiator panels and traditional Autometer short sweep temp gauge (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...d=3063&sid=13).
The problem I continually have is that in around town traffic the temps are fine even when in boost I don't see temps higher than around 195*F. Its when I get on the highway and just driving at a steady speed (NOT in boost) that I see the temps get up to about 215*F or so and it was on the cool side last night too. Why is this happening? I just cant figure it out. How do I keep the temps down when on the highway? I cant even imagine how hot the car would get if I was to actually drive it hard on the highway or if it was hot out!
Can the temp be directly effected by timing?
Is it possible that the gauge itself is faulty?
I originally had the temp sending unit mounted on the top passenger side of the radiator right next to the upper radiator hose but I just relocated the temp sending unit to the stock location on the goose neck right on top of the thermostat.
Please guys any help or suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
John
Here's what I'm running..... new OEM thermostat, new OEM water pump, Koyo radiator, Ford Taurus 2 speed fan, GP Sport front bumper, Greedy 2 row FMIC, stock oil cooler, both upper and lower radiator panels and traditional Autometer short sweep temp gauge (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...d=3063&sid=13).
The problem I continually have is that in around town traffic the temps are fine even when in boost I don't see temps higher than around 195*F. Its when I get on the highway and just driving at a steady speed (NOT in boost) that I see the temps get up to about 215*F or so and it was on the cool side last night too. Why is this happening? I just cant figure it out. How do I keep the temps down when on the highway? I cant even imagine how hot the car would get if I was to actually drive it hard on the highway or if it was hot out!
Can the temp be directly effected by timing?
Is it possible that the gauge itself is faulty?
I originally had the temp sending unit mounted on the top passenger side of the radiator right next to the upper radiator hose but I just relocated the temp sending unit to the stock location on the goose neck right on top of the thermostat.
Please guys any help or suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
John
#33
Lives on the Forum
Start you own thread?
Is there a way you can wire in a kill switch for the fan temporarily?
If you can, try turning the fan off on the highway and see if that helps.
Some fan designs don't work well at higher speeds and can impede cooling...
-ted
Is there a way you can wire in a kill switch for the fan temporarily?
If you can, try turning the fan off on the highway and see if that helps.
Some fan designs don't work well at higher speeds and can impede cooling...
-ted
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