fcdrifter13

You can also use a long screwdriver put up to your ear f you don't have a stethoscope. IF you have either and you place the tool used on the injector you should here clicking if it is working, but sometimes if the injectors are close together, like in the FC it is hard to listen for just one injector.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i have a mechanic stehoscope i'll check tomorrow

you think in the newest video its running on one rotor?
if anything its a wiring problem...i still have to work out the bugs...i'm not sue if the bac is working right....it clicks but when i un plug it it doesn't drop the idle any?

keep in mind i never worked on a running rotary....i just put everything together from the books still familiarizing myself with stuff

the computer is tuned for a highflow fuel pump and i still have the stocker in ....wouldn't that effect my idle
i used an old gasket on the UIM too twice now
i have all winter to get it running mint....if i have to rebuild it i won't really care

but right now there is no smoke at all? i don't know if that good or bad...

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Yep. I'm just not sure for which reason - plug, injector (wiring for either) or compression.

Not like this. And what "highflow" pump was the car tuned on?

There's a possible vac leak culprit, but its also easy to access/check.

Get new plugs, run the car for a good 1/2 hour, pull them and check. They'll tell the story, well at least they'll tell you where to find the story.

HAILERS

There's one thing that sticks out like a sore thumb that nobody seems to see or mention in the above posts. It's the significance of the 1100 rpm figure.

Over 1100-1200 rpm the ECU advances the timing from minus 5L and minus 20T. If a regular engine is slowly rev'd above 1100rpm, the timing goes to plus 12-13 for both L and T (if held just above 1200 steady).

My way of saying the timing gets retarded below the 1100rpm figure, so the tone etc of the engine will change.

I'd set the timing with a timing light and the rpms well under 900 rpms and then see what happens. If you've already done that, then ignore this post.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

thanks hailers....i'll mess around with that today.....I think i might have a problem gettin the ecu to switch to diagnostics mode (grounding that pin)
is there anyway to tell if its goin in diagnostics mode?....when i ground the test pin on my mx3 the check engine light flashes and you can tell the differance with the idle.....but on the rx7 theres no differance....i have the test pin connector pliced to the switch solenoid wire?
i might just try groundin it out right at the ecu and see....i'll have it figured out today
when i unplug my BAC when its idling it doesn't drop like it sais it should in the FSM?

i'm goin to switch back to the spark plug wires and coils it came with...i'd put the coils and plug wires of my 13b n/a motor when i was trying to get it running right...i know the coils won't really make a differance but the spark plug wires might

HAILERS

IF the rpms are over approx 750-800rpm, removing the plug from the bac will have NO effect on the engine speed.

IF the engine was idling around 750 or so, THEN removing the plug from the bac would most likely have an effect on the idle speed.

I've no experience with series five diagnostics. None at all other than reading about how if you gnd that single socket green connector, that will cause it to go into that diagnostic mode. Seried four are different.

EDIT: I forgot. You have a series five ECU and motor in a series four car and spliced/diced the wiring to fit. So I see where you might have to go directly to the ECU to gnd the right wire and then look for codes using????a LED with power to it and then the codes from the ECU would pulse a gnd to that LED to make it flash.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

And who knows if the DIA mode is still available on this ECU which is apparently chipped/tuned. Its circuitry might be non-existent.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

thats what i was thinking about the ecu...i double checked the timing when i kick it below the 1k mark it the timing marks go on....but theres a couple things


have you guys saw a N374 BAC valve....theres no idle adjust screw...i was messin with me TB before
i bet a higher base fuel pressure at idle will help it out..
i could live with a higher idle either way

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i think i've basically got it figured out.....the TPS on the S5 is automatically adjusted by the ECU, my S4 throttlecable is about 1cm to shortso i have it back as fas as it'll go but it held my TB open a bit and the ECU adjusted the TPS to that....because when i test the TPS when it should be closed was alittle bit higher than normal unless i took the throttle cable off it reads within spec.
so it would be as if the TPS is off abit

I'm goin to oval the holes on the throttle cable bracket to set it forward more and give me some more room for adjustment....clear the ecu's memory so it resets the TPS reading and i think that should clear up the idle problem

I know you guys have your heart set on it running on one rotor....but i'm not goin to tear the motor apart over poor sound quality and people getting confused over a huge exhaust leak .....loosen off the flange at the downpipe to the cat or test pipe so theres a HUGE *** LEAK and see if it sounds like mine

I might not be that familiar with rotaries yet but i am with motors in general and i can figure out any motor.....i spliced in the S5 engine into the S4 chassis with a couple hours of work and basically the only person that actually helped was HAILERS....I keep waiting for this to get hard but it still hasn't yet.... I had a minor set back...but it was my fault but its in starts up perfectly...its not idling perfect yet...but guaranteed once i fix that it will...all this with never even doin so much as an oil change on a running rotary...
so when you guys try to tell me that i can't tell the differance of an exhaust leak from a blown motor ...it doesn't sit to well with me

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The reason people say it sounds like one rotor is because it's very obvious when an engine is running with one rotor freewheeling. There's a clear missing stroke. Even with a maladjusted TPS and the engine idling like poop, the difference between one rotor and two is very distinct.

Some of us here have years of rotary experience and can recognize things like this immediately. I myself have been doing this since before you could legally drive.

I could be wrong, it could just be the crappy sound in the video. YouTube's audio is horrid and can introduce all sorts of artifacts. However I just listened to it again and I don't hear a 2nd rotor.

Here's a proper sounding engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRWxbLDJEPI

Notice the difference in sound?

turbodrx7

iTrader: (43)

To OP: You have a problem with your motor somewhere, as all of these FC guys who have YEARS of experience(Aaron and Karack) are telling you. Fixing your throttle cable to lower the idle isnt going to fix your problem internally(or electically). I suggest you listen to what they say and find the REAL problem.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Your being stubborn, maybe if you would have done what the experienced builders told you to do you could have solved the problem a long time ago and you could be driving the car right now..I just watched both videos and its blatantly obvious that its running on 1 rotor IMO...listen to the knocking and uneven noises..it sounds a lot like a piston motor unbalanced, down a cylinder.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

why is there no shake above 1250rpm only running at 50% would have somewhat of a shake at all rpm

you guys tune your own engine.....what happens if you lean it out to much at idle idle ?? probably gets a shake to it doesn't it?

a properly adjusted TPS, high flow fuel pump,and a properly adjusted throttle cable should clear up my idle problem

keep in mind the 2 places you hear the engine is through the intake and exhaust....in my case i have a huge exhaust leak popping and distorting the actual sound of the engine ....when you are standing right there you can distinguish the sounds better than a crappy video...in that last clip i never revved it above 3000rpm

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

both video's ...oh you mean the one from my cell phone when it was running the secondaries as primaries...or this one with me screwing the idle...that popping noise that sounds like a piston engine missing a cylinder....or coincidently kind of like a HUGE *** EXHAUST LEAK from the shitty exhaust system i rigged up in 10 mins to quiet the car down a bit

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

The biggest thing that does it for me (after watching the entire vid and not just the first 5 seconds listening for porting overlap) is the revs.

Even a light stab of the throttle should get a much better sound/response/speed of reaction from the engine in neutral. Which, sure, you can hear an exhaust leak, but the leak sound doesn't contribute to the speed and reaction heard when its revved a bit.

Try some fresh plugs and go from there.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

yeah i have to switch the plugs for sure....the ones that have been in it are the ones it came with.....i bought some after i had flooded those out....and when i was messing around with it i didn't wanna screw up my new $50 set of plugs so i left the originals in it and haven't switched them back yet
but those old ones were flooded many times lol they didn't work till after they dried for a couple days
i should have changed them back before...now that i think of it i haven't had the new plugs in since i fixed the fuel injectors

Spannersrx7

thate engine is definatly not running well, as these guys above me have said the inches of mercury is a good indicator of the health of the engine.. My engine running on 1 rotor would pull 10 in hg. definatly start by doing a compression test otherwise your other checks are just going to ruin the engine more

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Even a blown engine will run fairly smoothly at higher RPMs, but will still sound like it's only running on one rotor.

I'm not saying that the engine is blowing, just that it really, really, really sounds like it's running on one rotor.

The timing could be horribly off (has it been verified?), there could be an injector misfiring, etc. Did you ever check the plugs?

When you lean out an idling rotary too much, it will do the following:

1. Begin to have a distinct "brap". Won't shake too much
2. As you go leaner, it will begin to hunt
3. Start to misfire, which will cause shaking, but it will still be running on two rotors
4. Finally, when you get past the point of misfiring, it will simply stall

Maybe. I doubt the fuel pump has any real effect unless the ECU was tuned assuming a higher fuel pressure. This is a problem with "tuned" ECUs. You have no idea of knowing what was done so it's sort of a crapshoot.

While the TPS can cause idle issues (mainly hunting, or high or low idle) it won't cause the timing to be radically retarded or the engine to sound like it's missing a rotor.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

any progress on this?

igoring people's suggestions is just going to keep you running around in circles. as said, put a clean set of plugs in it and run it for about 1/2 hour and pull them out and inspect, if one still looks new as the moment you put it in with a little oil film on it then you are not getting combustion on that rotor meaning you have faulty injector wiring, a sticky injector, faulty ECU, spark issue on that plug or internal engine issue.

i never said it for sure was the engine at fault but it sure as heck sounds like it's running on 50-75% power after watching you tap the throttle and the lack of response in combination with the poor idle quality and distinct sound of a lack of even tone from the engine and exhaust. even an exhaust leak is easily noted due to a more even and powerful note vs a lawnmower-ish tone.

whenever you have an issue such as this ALWAYS start with the basics: fuel, ignition and compression... verify engine compression, this only takes at most 10 minutes to verify and ignoring it is only going to cost you more time. spark is also easy to verify, i doubt i need to explain this one. fuel is a little trickier, since the engine is running at this moment in time you can verify it is running rich or lean by removing a vacuum ported nipple at or before the throttle body without interrupting the AFM readings as much as possible and spraying some carburetor cleaner or ether into the port, if it smooths out then it is running lean somehow, if it stumbles more then it is running rich which also can mean it is loaded on one rotor and now getting way too much fuel with this test.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

I haven't had a chance to do anything lately, with the holiday's and we've been havin alot of crappy weather....

I got my FMIC finally and i'm just waiting for a 90 degree elbow coupler to come in
if you noticed in the video i have my airfilter stickin out on a 45 degree angle and my IC piping has a 180 degree pvc plumbing pipe routing it from the turbo to the TB
i'm goin to wait till i can run it with the intake piping set up normally right now its all rigged up just to run it

there must have been a small leak somewhere....i'll have to wait and see
i fixed my throttle cable bracket so it not holdin it open a bit anymore

once my coupler comes in i'll clear the ecu and try it out with the new plugs and a 100% sealed intake system

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

sorry.... i'm a stubborn ***!!
I found out today it is running on one rotor....i pulled the plugs wires off the one rotor and it still runs the same
so i triple checked the compression....it is good i have a video i'll post up later today of the compression tester gauge
i verified it does have spark
so it leaves one thing i must have a stuck/plugged fuel injectorafter its been running theres only alittle bit of moisture/gas on the trailing and the leading plug is bone dry
what do you guys suggest i do about that ....pull the injectors out test them and have them cleaned?
with the compression it has it and spark with even the least bit of fuel it should fire?
and those plugs should be soaked

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i got it figured out it was a problem with the ecu


heres some videos of it
running on both rotors

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWDfva41scQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QqTdm5MXtQ

this one is on a video camera and my dad copied it with the sound down so you have to crank the speakers up to hear it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0O4z1vC8Os


what kind of port job do you guys think this has

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

still doesnt sound right, check the timing yet?

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i blew up one of the mufflers lol....its split right down th whole thing....plus thats with a n351

if i can't get it goin with the tuned eprom i'm just goin to get megasquirt

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a pretty big street port...Or it's just misfiring. Though the engine sounds too rhythmic to be just misfiring.