What rebuild kit do I want?
#1
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What rebuild kit do I want?
do i need the
86-88 N/A 13B 2mm Overhaul Kit C
or
86-88 N/A 13B 3mm Overhaul Kit C
I am also geting the Atkins Rotary Rebuild Video #16771 to help
The main goal in this is to get my coolent seal fixed, I was told i need to rebuild....
86-88 N/A 13B 2mm Overhaul Kit C
or
86-88 N/A 13B 3mm Overhaul Kit C
I am also geting the Atkins Rotary Rebuild Video #16771 to help
The main goal in this is to get my coolent seal fixed, I was told i need to rebuild....
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Get the 2mm kit...
You don't need a 3mm kit unless you're planning
very high boost, and even then, you'll have to get
the rotors milled for the 3mm seals... "$$$"
It's actually a popular debate these days,
as to whether 3mm seals are even better at all...
Go with the 2mm kit...
And you can probably skip by without new corner/side seals,
so you should go with the cheapest rebuild kit available...
www.rotaryaviation.com and I think it's about $600...
You don't need a 3mm kit unless you're planning
very high boost, and even then, you'll have to get
the rotors milled for the 3mm seals... "$$$"
It's actually a popular debate these days,
as to whether 3mm seals are even better at all...
Go with the 2mm kit...
And you can probably skip by without new corner/side seals,
so you should go with the cheapest rebuild kit available...
www.rotaryaviation.com and I think it's about $600...
#3
Haven't we ALL heard this
![](/images/misc/20_year_icon.png)
Uhhhh, are you planning on milling out your rotors to accept a 3MM apex seal?
Stock is 2MM.
I am going to guess not by your question.
So you need the 2MM kit .
James
Stock is 2MM.
I am going to guess not by your question.
So you need the 2MM kit .
James
#6
Haven't we ALL heard this
![](/images/misc/20_year_icon.png)
Just wanted to add this.
Since you deciding to rebuild the engine think about this. If you wait say one month to do a rebuild you are going to have coolant water pooled inside of the combustion chambers. This will rust the hell out of it and you might damage the housing or the irons or the rotors.
So, if you decide to rebuild just pull the enigne out and get it appart. Or else your gonna rust up the combustion chambers and cost you more money.
Good luck!
Since you deciding to rebuild the engine think about this. If you wait say one month to do a rebuild you are going to have coolant water pooled inside of the combustion chambers. This will rust the hell out of it and you might damage the housing or the irons or the rotors.
So, if you decide to rebuild just pull the enigne out and get it appart. Or else your gonna rust up the combustion chambers and cost you more money.
Good luck!
Last edited by Wankel7; 05-09-05 at 03:57 AM.
#7
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Originally Posted by 13b4me
Get the 2mm kit...
You don't need a 3mm kit unless you're planning
very high boost, and even then, you'll have to get
the rotors milled for the 3mm seals... "$$$"
It's actually a popular debate these days,
as to whether 3mm seals are even better at all...
Go with the 2mm kit...
And you can probably skip by without new corner/side seals,
so you should go with the cheapest rebuild kit available...
www.rotaryaviation.com and I think it's about $600...
You don't need a 3mm kit unless you're planning
very high boost, and even then, you'll have to get
the rotors milled for the 3mm seals... "$$$"
It's actually a popular debate these days,
as to whether 3mm seals are even better at all...
Go with the 2mm kit...
And you can probably skip by without new corner/side seals,
so you should go with the cheapest rebuild kit available...
www.rotaryaviation.com and I think it's about $600...
Main (internal) Gasket Set* 1
Rotor O-ring Lg 4
Rotor O-ring Sm 4
Rear Main Oil Seal 1
Front Main Oil Seal 1
Corner Seal Plug 12
Corner Seal Spring 12
Side Seal Spring 12
Thrust Bearings 2
Thermal Pellet Plug 1
Apex Seals 1 set
Apex Seal Springs 1 set
Hylomar® 1
Silicone 1
Brushable Sealant 1
Supplemental
instructions 1
the master kit has but it is $900 something
Oil Pump Chain 1
Rotor Oil Seal Set 4
Side Seal 12
Corner Seal 12
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#9
Haven't we ALL heard this
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New housings ! That box looks farmilar ![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Looks like you got your irons lapped?
Looks good!
Why does it look like the bearing on the rotor on teh right is scoreD?
James
![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Looks like you got your irons lapped?
Looks good!
Why does it look like the bearing on the rotor on teh right is scoreD?
James
#10
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Are you gunna be using the oil gasket? That is the aftermarket kit from atkins right ? Have you used it before? Anyways everything looks good, im rebuilding mine next week. Pulled my motor out today.. Plus I just noticed your in Miami, goodluck and pm me if you need to some help.
#11
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Why does it look like the bearing on the rotor on teh right is scoreD?
The engine was running fine when I opened it. It's just that it was a bit low on compression and who ever built it used 88 and 89 housings.
Are you gunna be using the oil gasket? That is the aftermarket kit from atkins right ? Have you used it before? Anyways everything looks good, im rebuilding mine next week. Pulled my motor out today.. Plus I just noticed your in Miami, goodluck and pm me if you need to some help.
305 345 2679
Luis
BTW: What happened to your motor?
#12
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Originally Posted by luiml73
Thats the first thing i noticed when i opened the engine. The shaft is in good condition though and I'm installing new bearings anyways.
The engine was running fine when I opened it. It's just that it was a bit low on compression and who ever built it used 88 and 89 housings.
First time i use it martin and yes i will be using it. I'll be rebuilding it at my friends house on 103st 22ave in Miami. He's done this **** 30 times already. He's there to make sure I don't do anything wrong, but with the video this should be a piece of cake. You can come down and we'll have of few beer if your not working.
305 345 2679
Luis
BTW: What happened to your motor?
The engine was running fine when I opened it. It's just that it was a bit low on compression and who ever built it used 88 and 89 housings.
First time i use it martin and yes i will be using it. I'll be rebuilding it at my friends house on 103st 22ave in Miami. He's done this **** 30 times already. He's there to make sure I don't do anything wrong, but with the video this should be a piece of cake. You can come down and we'll have of few beer if your not working.
305 345 2679
Luis
BTW: What happened to your motor?
#13
Carter 2.0
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Back to the topic,
Zigma, there is a thread in the Archives called "13b rebuild kit" from Karack. There is a lot of good info in that thread that discusses your very question. The 3mm thing is overkill for you and your price for 3mm apex seals are going to kill you.
Just to let you know ahead of time. I bought all my parts from Mazdatrix including the Thermo pellet Oil mod. It all came out to $877. There are cheaper kits from RA. The RA video is excellent. Just set up a VCR in the garage with a remote (inside a plastic bag for oil spill reasons) and get familiar with the rewind feature.
Zigma, there is a thread in the Archives called "13b rebuild kit" from Karack. There is a lot of good info in that thread that discusses your very question. The 3mm thing is overkill for you and your price for 3mm apex seals are going to kill you.
Just to let you know ahead of time. I bought all my parts from Mazdatrix including the Thermo pellet Oil mod. It all came out to $877. There are cheaper kits from RA. The RA video is excellent. Just set up a VCR in the garage with a remote (inside a plastic bag for oil spill reasons) and get familiar with the rewind feature.
#14
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One more thing, Be thinking ahead for sourcing a new/used good front Iron. The thin spot may have cracked on you (watch the video for more info on "The Thin Spot"). It may be a good idea to have one located if you find that you need one. Mine had the same probelm as yours. When I got mine apart the front Iron had cracked and left the coolant seal to fend for itself without a groove. The seal gave away.
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