What Mods on a BNR Stage 3 or 4?
#26
Okay. So I can use my stock ECU with a piggyback fuel computer (S-AFC II) and my car would still run fine with a stage 3 or stage 4?
I plan on getting a stand-alone not long after the turbo upgrade so i can tune my car a lot better actually. I just have to get a job now and get the stuff done.
I plan on getting a stand-alone not long after the turbo upgrade so i can tune my car a lot better actually. I just have to get a job now and get the stuff done.
#28
I own a haltech e6x. If I had to do over I would get a microtech with the dash display setup. But thats just me. If you plan on running more than 12lbs I would recommend you buy a standalone first. Then you can put any turbo setup you want. I am not a fan of halfway doing your turbo system and if I was you i would get the EMS and then save for a full t04.
#30
Originally Posted by Bukwild
I own a haltech e6x. If I had to do over I would get a microtech with the dash display setup. But thats just me. If you plan on running more than 12lbs I would recommend you buy a standalone first. Then you can put any turbo setup you want. I am not a fan of halfway doing your turbo system and if I was you i would get the EMS and then save for a full t04.
A hybrid is perfect for someone looking for a little more power than the stock turbo can provide without the financial burden of a full t04 swap.
the microtech and haltech both can be viewed via a laptop. I suggest you do some more searching in the different sections of this site, and on other rx7 boards. This question has been asked several times before.
#31
Originally Posted by gsracer
A stand alone is better on an entirely stock set up, much less a modified one.
Is it neccessary?
Absolutely not, with the proper fuel system and intercooling an AIC set up would work just fine on a larger hybrid turbo like the stage III or stage IV bnr turbos.
Is a stand alone better?
It has the potential to make more power, while probably delievering better fuel economy and arguably more reliability. Installing a stand alone EMS is not very complicated - tuning one however is a totally different story.
Is it neccessary?
Absolutely not, with the proper fuel system and intercooling an AIC set up would work just fine on a larger hybrid turbo like the stage III or stage IV bnr turbos.
Is a stand alone better?
It has the potential to make more power, while probably delievering better fuel economy and arguably more reliability. Installing a stand alone EMS is not very complicated - tuning one however is a totally different story.
I would almost be more scared with an EMS because I am making the entire map while the stock ECU has a proven "BASE" map that you just modify up and down.
The Rtek 1.7 would be an enhancement of this map.
Using the stock ecu will have problems if your changing the primaries though since I think the starting maps are seperate that the regular maps.
I've been thinking of doing a stage 2 or 3 upgrade later on since it is a bolt on system upgrade. I would then try the Rtek 1.7 upgrade with something like 890's or something. An SAFC to tune an already higher than stock map shouldn't be that bad.
My idea is to always run way richer and then work down to some what rich AFR's.
I've seen to many people blow motors trying to tune too aggressively.
#32
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
I've seen 2 high HP FC's blow their motor during EMS Dyno tunings.
I would almost be more scared with an EMS because I am making the entire map while the stock ECU has a proven "BASE" map that you just modify up and down.
The Rtek 1.7 would be an enhancement of this map.
Using the stock ecu will have problems if your changing the primaries though since I think the starting maps are seperate that the regular maps.
I've been thinking of doing a stage 2 or 3 upgrade later on since it is a bolt on system upgrade. I would then try the Rtek 1.7 upgrade with something like 890's or something. An SAFC to tune an already higher than stock map shouldn't be that bad.
My idea is to always run way richer and then work down to some what rich AFR's.
I've seen to many people blow motors trying to tune too aggressively.
I would almost be more scared with an EMS because I am making the entire map while the stock ECU has a proven "BASE" map that you just modify up and down.
The Rtek 1.7 would be an enhancement of this map.
Using the stock ecu will have problems if your changing the primaries though since I think the starting maps are seperate that the regular maps.
I've been thinking of doing a stage 2 or 3 upgrade later on since it is a bolt on system upgrade. I would then try the Rtek 1.7 upgrade with something like 890's or something. An SAFC to tune an already higher than stock map shouldn't be that bad.
My idea is to always run way richer and then work down to some what rich AFR's.
I've seen to many people blow motors trying to tune too aggressively.
#34
If you can afford it, go stand alone - end of discussion.
My next choice would be additional injectors.
Yes, the car will run with the safc - but not at it's optimum ability. At some point the afm voltage will be pegged and then you will have to switch to a MAP based piggy back or stand alone EMS. I'd wager this happens around 300ish rwhp
My next choice would be additional injectors.
Yes, the car will run with the safc - but not at it's optimum ability. At some point the afm voltage will be pegged and then you will have to switch to a MAP based piggy back or stand alone EMS. I'd wager this happens around 300ish rwhp
#36
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by gsracer
A full t04 swap is much more detailed than swapping on a hybrid turbo. The average FC owner can barely afford to put gas in his car, much less buy a new manifold, wastegate, turbo, fab up oil/coolant lines, modify the downpipe etc...
A hybrid is perfect for someone looking for a little more power than the stock turbo can provide without the financial burden of a full t04 swap.
the microtech and haltech both can be viewed via a laptop. I suggest you do some more searching in the different sections of this site, and on other rx7 boards. This question has been asked several times before.
A hybrid is perfect for someone looking for a little more power than the stock turbo can provide without the financial burden of a full t04 swap.
the microtech and haltech both can be viewed via a laptop. I suggest you do some more searching in the different sections of this site, and on other rx7 boards. This question has been asked several times before.
#38
Sorry for the necromancy, but I am getting a BNR stage 3 turbo since mine is on its way out. When I put the BNR Stage 3 in my car I will also run stock primarys and 720cc (greddy?) secondarys. (Any other brands sizes reccomended?) I'm going to use the Rtch 1.5 chip I think (buying karacks when he goes standalone) along with an SAFC II. I have a cosmo fuel pump (think I should ditch it and get walboro 255?) Full 3" turbo back and custom intake. Also engine has a stage 1 port. Going to put in a fmic to keep the turbo cool. (Either a saab 900 fmic or spearco) I can't think of anything else atm, but will update once I go through my receipt book.
#40
Originally Posted by $150FC
I have a Stage IV, front mount, etc.
I have the stock TII FPR. I am running 2x550 and 2x1600 with an E6k. You really need to be able to adjust your ignition, not just your fuel, to get the best out of the Stage 3 or 4. I say go standalone because it's only a little more expensive in the long run and it works more effectively. (Hell, it's not that hard either. I didn't have any electrical experience, and I made my harness and relocated the battery, and it all works, no do-overs )
That said, your car should run fine with piggybacks.
Does anybody have one of those RTek ECUs and a BNR III or IV?
I have the stock TII FPR. I am running 2x550 and 2x1600 with an E6k. You really need to be able to adjust your ignition, not just your fuel, to get the best out of the Stage 3 or 4. I say go standalone because it's only a little more expensive in the long run and it works more effectively. (Hell, it's not that hard either. I didn't have any electrical experience, and I made my harness and relocated the battery, and it all works, no do-overs )
That said, your car should run fine with piggybacks.
Does anybody have one of those RTek ECUs and a BNR III or IV?
#42
Originally Posted by SmogSUX
Sorry for the necromancy, but I am getting a BNR stage 3 turbo since mine is on its way out. When I put the BNR Stage 3 in my car I will also run stock primarys and 720cc (greddy?) secondarys. (Any other brands sizes reccomended?) I'm going to use the Rtch 1.5 chip I think (buying karacks when he goes standalone) along with an SAFC II. I have a cosmo fuel pump (think I should ditch it and get walboro 255?) Full 3" turbo back and custom intake. Also engine has a stage 1 port. Going to put in a fmic to keep the turbo cool. (Either a saab 900 fmic or spearco) I can't think of anything else atm, but will update once I go through my receipt book.
hey nick you are upgrading too huh
well then maybe we will have to run em lol
#43
secondarys arent enough... 4x 720cc is going to demolish my economy i sn't it? And I might have to remove the stoopid 90 degree coolant hose to get the uim to move enough for me to remove the primarys >< Oh would the bigger turbo affect my emissions? CA resident here
And no we shouldn't run em...you'd demolish me :P no emissions stuff, you only have 1 belt (water pump), same turbo upgrade, etc
-also will the rtech 1.5 be good enough for the stage 3? that and the safc2 and I'll take it to motorsport dynamics or something for tuning.
And no we shouldn't run em...you'd demolish me :P no emissions stuff, you only have 1 belt (water pump), same turbo upgrade, etc
-also will the rtech 1.5 be good enough for the stage 3? that and the safc2 and I'll take it to motorsport dynamics or something for tuning.
Last edited by SmogSUX; 05-06-05 at 03:16 PM.
#44
Originally Posted by SmogSUX
secondarys arent enough... 4x 720cc is going to demolish my economy i sn't it? And I might have to remove the stoopid 90 degree coolant hose to get the uim to move enough for me to remove the primarys >< Oh would the bigger turbo affect my emissions? CA resident here
And no we shouldn't run em...you'd demolish me :P no emissions stuff, you only have 1 belt (water pump), same turbo upgrade, etc
-also will the rtech 1.5 be good enough for the stage 3? that and the safc2 and I'll take it to motorsport dynamics or something for tuning.
And no we shouldn't run em...you'd demolish me :P no emissions stuff, you only have 1 belt (water pump), same turbo upgrade, etc
-also will the rtech 1.5 be good enough for the stage 3? that and the safc2 and I'll take it to motorsport dynamics or something for tuning.
The UIM has to come off for the secondary injectors anyways, might as well replace both. The turbo will not effect emissions in any way.
- Matt
#45
I already had the UIM before when I converted to premix and replaced the 90 degree coolant hose with a slightly longer hose. I was hoping to just move the uim as much as possible without having to drain my coolant and removing the stupid hose What brand injector do you reccoment? My friend with an evo just bought RC..
#46
Ugh I think my friend just bought the last set of 720cc injectors off ebay Now what am I going to do...4x 720cc injectors @ 230ish compared to me buying new 720cc injectors @ 100 each..
#47
#48
My mods are in my Sig.
I would DEFINATELY say go stand alone. Its cheaper in the long run because if your motor blows due to insufficient maps...you're looking at, at least 2x - 3x the cost of the standalone to rebuild it.
On my dyno-tune at a mere 12psi I hit 318RWHP. Decent numbers, Brian of BNR said that at 15psi with my mods, I should be hitting around 360 to the wheels. Also, if you talk to Brian, he's extremely knowledgeable, he'll give you the pros and cons of the 3 vs the 4.
That's just my 2cents.
I would DEFINATELY say go stand alone. Its cheaper in the long run because if your motor blows due to insufficient maps...you're looking at, at least 2x - 3x the cost of the standalone to rebuild it.
On my dyno-tune at a mere 12psi I hit 318RWHP. Decent numbers, Brian of BNR said that at 15psi with my mods, I should be hitting around 360 to the wheels. Also, if you talk to Brian, he's extremely knowledgeable, he'll give you the pros and cons of the 3 vs the 4.
That's just my 2cents.
#49
Originally Posted by bigdv519
-Standalone is too expensive. I'm going to have a tuner tune my car, so hopefully It won't pop or anything. I'm so poor...a 16 year old student with a really low part time job dishing out $900 for a turbo upgrade..