Well, I'm looking into getting a BNR Stage 3 or Stage 4 for my S4 Turbo II. I've got the S5 turbo to be upgraded, and I was just wondering what mods I would need to really run this turbo efficiently. I've got the Racing Beat 3" Turbo-back exhaust, an intake, and I have a front mount intercooler, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, SAFCII, Greddy Profec B-Spec II, and 720cc secondary injectors waiting to be installed. I know I'll have to probably switch teh 720s to primaries, and get something bigger, maybe 1600ccs? What setups are some of you guys running on Stage 3s and Stage 4s?

 

most of the bnr stage III guys have a 720x4 combo or are running standalones with larger secondaries. I'm still working out kinks with my setup so don't ask me how my setup runs

 

So a stage 3 with 4x720s runs good?

Anyone with experience with this setup have a list of mods?

 

Lets see..

Ive got:

BNR stage 4, 2x720 primaries, 2x890 secondaries, thunder fab 3inch DP/MP, RB cat back, Haltech, and FMIC.. (probably more but I forget...) Oh, I will be spraying alcohol.

 

My real question is this...Is it 100% necessary to have a stand-alone ECU on a stage 3 or 4? I see that you have the haltech j-rat, but do you guys think that it would be possible to get away with an SAFC-II only? or do I need to save up for a stand-alone?

If it's 100% necessary for a stand-alone, I may end up going ahead and saving up for a T-66 turbo, a manifold, and a wastegate, instead of upgrading the S5 turbo.

 

I think you will be able to use the turbo with an SAFC2 as long as you have a better fuel pump and injectors. However, of course you wont see the gains that someone with a stand alone would. As long as you make most of your 12 point adjustments in the right range(basically have a good tuner who knows what he is doing) and made sure its tuned with a wideband or dyno, then youll be fine for the 15 psi that BNR quotes their hp gains at. Do you have a fmic at this point?? That would def help protect you a little better from detonation. It is not 100% neccesary you have a stand alone but I can bet there is at least a 25-30 hp difference between the two. So just run an safc2 until you have the cash to upgrade. Thats what Im doing. i dont have the BNR but I had a hybrid turbo built with t04 parts that is really close to what your doing. im running a walbro 255, safc2, fmic, greddy injectors, and will have dyno time with a wideband. Hopefully I see some good gains from this setup.

 

I've got a Walbro pump, and 2 720 injectors (secondaries) to be installed on the rebuild. This is just to keep the car running well for now. I've got a front mount setting around, waiting to be installed, but I don't have the silicone hosing to connect it, or the piping for that matter. But I believe I'm going to have Ride Revolution install the front mount, bend the piping, and use the silicone they have in stock down there to fix up my front mount setup. I was going to get them to do that along with dyno it and tune the S-AFC II.

I'm hoping I can get away with a stage 3 (maybe 4) with just the S-AFC II for now. If someone else who has got the Stage 4 and not got a stand-alone could give me a "runs good" or "doesn't run good" that would be a monster help.

 

Go standalone or Go rebuild

 

Anybody running aftermarket FPRs? Or RRFPR?

 

I have a Stage IV, front mount, etc.

I have the stock TII FPR. I am running 2x550 and 2x1600 with an E6k. You really need to be able to adjust your ignition, not just your fuel, to get the best out of the Stage 3 or 4. I say go standalone because it's only a little more expensive in the long run and it works more effectively. (Hell, it's not that hard either. I didn't have any electrical experience, and I made my harness and relocated the battery, and it all works, no do-overs )

That said, your car should run fine with piggybacks.

Does anybody have one of those RTek ECUs and a BNR III or IV?

 

Well, the S5 turbo has already been rebuilt...But I'm really wanting more power out of the car. I may save up and get the stand-alone, the stage 4, and the injectors at the same time.

Would 1600cc secondaries be too much for the stage 4? or should i got a lot lower?

 

I do so hopefully the 1.7 will have me covered as far as timing is conserned, however I'm having a bit of troubles right now with my car smoking but thats a differant story.

1600 would not be to much if you have something like the haltech or microtek to tune them down with.

 

I wish there were s5 t2 Rtek's

 

If you're pushing the stage IV in terms of high boost, the 1600s would be smart. The stage III isn't as efficient at high boost so you wouldn't run 17 or 18 psi like you would with the IV, and I guess you could get away with 1000 or 1200cc injectors. But 1600s are just as cheap, and if you buy'em in bulk (eight injectors per box, for instance) you can help out friends and forum members.

Victor

 

And my biggest concern, stand-alone? Yes or No? I'm hoping for a "not completely necessary" cause that's better than not being able to run it at all. I mean, I don't plan on running it up past probably 14-15 psi until I was to get a stand-alone anyway.

And for the 1600cc injectors, would I need the fuel rail that rx7store.net sells? it says it fits 1600cc injectors, but it doesn't say if it fits denso or bosch style injectors.

 

Well, the answer is "not completely neccessary".

You can mod the 1600cc injectors to fit in a fuel rail. Search a bit for it, you should find the writeup.

 

But along with the "not completely necessary", am I looking at just having to run lower boost pressures and getting less power or what?

I've seen the write up. I need to find it and reread it a few times though

 

ok what good is the 360* bearing in the stage III then? On the website they tell you to upgrade to this if you are going to be pushing more than 15psi?

 

I am running the AEM 1 to 1.

 

I know eventually I plan on pushing 18 or so, depending on how much the turbo will hold along with my fuel mods. But before I go up to that level, I'm going to get a stand-alone. That's already decided for me. But would 15psi be safe to push w/o a stand-alone?

 

Everybody will have different opinions of a standalone being "not completely necessary." You just got to be honest with urself and know that if you don't run a standalone possibilities of DETONATION, running like ****, etc. could happen. In your case the chances are very likely if you don't know what your doing.

In my own opinion standalone would be the smart way to go. Its safer, better in the long run, and will clean up the tune and performance of ANY setup you would like to run in the future. If you want to run SAFC, then i would just keep the stock setup and run it safely as it is. Until then, do things right and you will see how a standalone is the way to go.

On the other hand your prolly debating the price difference of a standalone vs. the safc. Well, when i got a standalone it was almost the same price after selling my SAFC, TII wiring harness, TII ecu, TII boost sensor, TII afm, etc. plus me saving money doing the labor (wiring urself). My standalone was $850-microtech LTX8. Of course tuning is recommended with any route you would go. Hope this helps a bit.

Christian

 

Hmm...
I've seen things about the Microtech, but is it that good of a stand-alone? I kinda liked the looks of the AEM.
Can some of you guys with these installed give me some pros and cons of each?

 

I just got my Rtek 1.7v, however there is still snow on the ground here so I have not even installed it yet. I also just picked up a wideband O2.

 

Rtek 1.7v? What is that?

 

A stand alone is better on an entirely stock set up, much less a modified one.

Is it neccessary?

Absolutely not, with the proper fuel system and intercooling an AIC set up would work just fine on a larger hybrid turbo like the stage III or stage IV bnr turbos.

Is a stand alone better?

It has the potential to make more power, while probably delievering better fuel economy and arguably more reliability. Installing a stand alone EMS is not very complicated - tuning one however is a totally different story.