steven38305

I have done oil change, new filter, new plugs, new wires, engine treatment, fuel cleaner (lucus ftw). It has a stage 2 racing clutch dual exhaust, ac has been removed,smog pump gone, cat gone. Now what do yall think should be done next?
Its 88 n/a.

SpooledupRacing

Lucas is junk... sorry..

ok I would do suspension, make sure your 5th/6th ports are working, new fuel filter, change the thermostat with a nippon or oem one and new coolant, new radiator cap, Do your brakes if hey need it

If you already have dual exhaust I am guessing this is a non turbo, my next add-on was a SAFC and I was able to pull some fuel and it was a big help.

Thats about it on a stock n/a

steven38305

kk anything else anyone else can think of that will add some horses?

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

a lightweight flywheel doesnt add horsepower, but because its so lightweight its easy to spin and thus putting more horsepower from the crank to the wheels, theyre around 400 but its one of the first things im getting for my car

bshumate2003@yahoo.com

what does safc stand for ?? and idk if u even wanna do much with the suspension mazda already has that thing handling like a dream , especially since u got a N/A i mean they are lots of fun i got an 87 GXL with headers stage 2 clutch , short shifter , and intake,.. Point is ur not really going to blow the doors off anyways it already handles excellent for the power the N/A fc3s has

steven38305

hmm headers could be something

well uhhh

True in stock form, but 20 plus years of wear/abuse will have your suspension bushings looking like ****. bushing kits are around 100 bucks and will take a decent home mechanic a weekend or so to do and well worth every minute.

as for adding power, idk because it depends on goals/budget. I would pull the injectors and have them cleaned/flow tested. it takes about a week from the time you send them out till the time you get them back but its only about $120. This will not only help with atomization of fuel resulting in a better, more complete burn, but it will also improve Mileage, leaving you with more money to spend on mods.

Just think about the basics when modding a vehicle... Air, Fuel, Spark. Your fuel pump is adequate, as long as it is running right and has proper voltage. leaving the injectors. Fuel covered. you have new plugs and wires, so check coils, should be fine. this just leaves an ignition box. as for air, you have part of the exhaust done so maximize flow with the rest of exhaust, drop in a k&n filter and you shoud be good, as long as you have your aux ports working.

Beyond this preformance wise... get a turbo II

Just my .02

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

theres someone on here with racing beat springs going for 125, you should check those out!

steven38305

do bushings really help that much? nice

SpooledupRacing

SAFC = Super Air Fuel Controller

get new struts and lowering springs

header back exhaust is nice (dual was real nice)

coxxoc

iTrader: (3)

Bushings and suspension components would be the first thing to improve the performance of your car after doing normal maintenance work. Second, get good tires.

Power is really the last thing you need unless you are a drag racer. That can be fun too.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Next do the maintenance that actually matters. The owner's manual, FSM (links are in the FAQ) or a Haynes manual will have a list of scheduled maintenance. Cooling system maintenance is the most critical. Address all the different cooling items listed, use an OEM thermostat.

oil & filter change: usually overdone, almost never related to rotary problems. Unless the oil change guy didn't tighten the drain plug. Then the plug might fall out, all the oil drains, your oil pressure gauge hits zero and your engine blows 30 seconds or so after that.
new plugs & wires: probably unnecessary and - unlike other maintenance items - it doesn't hurt to put it off
engine treatment, fuel treatment: probably garbage

And for contrast:
cooling system maintenance: neglecting this is the #1 cause of rotary engine failure. Your engine will be running fine, then one day you'll overheat and/or the coolant seals will fall apart and you'll need a $3000 rebuild

For performance most others already made good suggestions, so I won't add anything.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

You must ask yourself "What don't I like about how the car performs?" is it too slow, does it plow through corners, or oversteer/understeer, too bouncy, too high? Address your concerns...

I'd say swap in a new ported/pinned 13bre w/ a gt45 turbo w/ dog box and a good rear diff and get a motec ecu, custom fab up a cantilever suspension in the rear, and a full roll cage w/ lexan windows and a widebody conversion w/ some wide sticky tires and light/wide rims. oh and lots of stickers! Yah!

totallimmortal

Lucas is junk? Really? I'm not a big fan of additives but everone from autoparts store employees to local racers swear its the only additive worth anything. TB mod, port that sucker, make a cold air intake that pulls cold air from ouside the engine bay. Maybe an underdrive pully, not sure how much they are good for though, might not be too good to underdrive the waterpump if your not reving higher than stock. other than that there's really not to much you can to to make more power with an NA as far as bolt ons go, but deffinetly flush coolant. I'd also change tranny and read diff fluid to a nice synthetic, the lower friction has actually showed gained WHP on dynos, of course this won't actually give you more hp just lower the loss through drivetrain