Most likely a "Satch" question.lol!
.I got a Haltech PS1000 installed,so the stock ECU harness is no longer in the car.
I noticed that the Fuse box is sitting there with the EGI and EGI Comp(?) fuses.
Are they Now "available",if the Haltech is taking care of the injectors,Trigger,and coils?
I would like to use the fuse(s) for things like my E-Fan,or anything else I may hook up..maybe WI injection.
thanks Guys.Cheers Dave/STYX.

 

Not familiar w/the aftermarket stuff but which wire are you using to power the Haltech. And the Comp fuse powers the Emission solenoids. Are you suggesting that the Haltech provides the voltage to the coils w/key to on that the B/Y wire from the INJ fuse did? And your Haltech powers the injectors as well as triggering them?

 

I have the power for Haltech (B+) hooked to the positive Battery side of the Fuse box(nice clean place to put it)The Haltech has wiring for the injectors.Also the Crank trigger( went from stock Cas to a Trigger setup by FullFunction Engineering.It is nice).
I am just taking the stock coils out,which the Haltech was wired to also,and replacing those with Coil w/ignitor.The Haltech harness will go to those individually and trigger them,But I need a 12 volt switched.
Now,I just need a source that I can put my efan and WI on.
Right now I have the fan on a Relay and switched by the 6 pin Connector( near L coil.)power to B+.

 

You can use the EGI as it is "available" now. Just follow the stock wiring and use it where you want. As for the ignition, use the stock wiring to power it all, even if you are changing coils. It's already in place for you.

 

about the only thing that it may still be wired to is to power the ignition coils, but the PS1000 should have a feed to power them. just depends how and who wired it.

 

imo this is the problem with the haltech, as its harness is wired for a car that didn't have factory fuel injection, i always cut up the haltech harness, and just wired the ECU up following the mazda diagram. that way if there are any problems i can just use the factory wiring diagram.

in stock mazda trim the black/yellow wire (EGI circuit?) powers the fuel injectors and the ignition. and the black/white wire powers all the emissions solenoids and the BAC valve and things like that.

i'm not sure how the haltech powers things, but both mazda circuits are something like 30amp, so if they are free, you can totally use them for fans, etc.

 

Wiring on the Haltech is done by C Ludwig,so I definitely do not question that.
My concern is the factory Fuse block.
I know that is getting 12 volts,But I do not know what the wires control after the EGI and EGI Comp fuse..So IF I cut the wires to use the Fuse itself as a feed for fans,or coils and the WI,am I going to De-Power anything that I still need on the car?
I am not concerned with the Haltech wiring at all.It Stays as is.

 

look it up in the fsm wiring diagrams. or you could just take the fuse out and see what doesnt work lol.

i hate having extra wiring, i ditched the haltech fuse box and relays too and just wired it in to the factory stuff. a lot cleaner install if u ask me

 

the factory harness powers the coils, the haltech fires them. keep the fuses in place.

 

Sorry,that is incorrect. I just took the subharness off the Haltech and Took my coils out and nothing was left.The Harness had the coil connectors,and one wire that went to tach.
GXL.That is why I went Haltech.The stock wiring sucks *****.I'd rather have New wiring than depend on Old stuff and 25 year old connections.

 

by the how does the haltech run ...any pros and cons on that unit

how much did you spend with the finished product

 

I am into the ignition for about 2k.(give or take 400 bucks)
I got the PS1000 and custom harness(to plug and play into FC TII engine).
The Crank Trigger is an FFE setup(so no old CAS any more) and then I opted for 4 AEM IGN-1A coils.
Just to keep the setup plug and play, I bought another Subharness.This will hook the AEM's to the harness.
That way if I sell the buyer has 2 ways to go...stock or hi Powered Aem Coils.

 

I did that too. it still drew to many amps and melted my main harness and the whole fuse box. ludwig ran 2? relays in my engine harness I think and will now be controlling the fan thru the haltech i'd recommend fan control thru the ecu

 

^ I'm not following. Are you prewarning running the haltech straight to B+ or are concerned about the the fan being run through the EGI fuse?

I run my fan straight from the battery off of some terminal adapter things, kinda junky looking but it gets the job done. From there its a dedicated 40amp fuse and off to a relay that gets switched by the haltech.

 

The haltech runs as well as you set it up, like any other standalone ECU.

 

That's kinda funny since it's usually the wring that I have touched that always causes me problems instead of the 25 year old stock connections.

 

I wouldnt run the fan to the AAS connector on the strut tower, srry
even with a relay installed it didnt blow the fuse incabin but melted the fuse box and harness. I could just have bad luck it ran like that for about a year now im controlling it with the haltech

 

Farberio.
I have the power for fan from the battery right now,BUT no fuse..
So I want to use the EGI Fuse for the fan.
....
It's sunny and 65 today..and 4 more nice days.
I will update..

 

then yours is setup differently than mine.

im speaking in normal circumstances. once the ecu is removed, all thats left for the egi fuse and whatnot is the coils pretty much.

 

Just to clear up the confusion in this thread, we built the harness for the OP. Our harnesses utilize the Haltech flying lead harness as the basis for the build and use the ignition power circuit that is part of that harness. Factory power to the coils is NOT retained. Power and signal for the coils is routed through our harness to a breakout connector near the middle of the firewall. We then build an ignition sub-harness that plugs in to the breakout and continues on to the coils. The breakout allows the customer to change ignition systems easily and cleanly. All they need to do is go back to the breakout and use a new sub-harness to match their new ignition. This makes it easy to go from stock coils to IGN-1A (as is the case here) or to CDI or whatever you choose.

In this particular case we have built a new sub-harness for the OP which includes signal and power for the coils. We have discussed this, but apparently I have done a poor job of explaining it. He will not need to source power from another location to run his coils.