Yeah, I'm reading where the pins go into the plug, so no problem there.


Funny thing, I ringed the wires, but all show no reading/infinite ohms... all 4. I redid and redid tests, but get the same results. I know the car has been heavily rigged, so perhaps they knocked something out? Or could there be a posibility I'm doing something wrong? I tested the EGI fuses, motor and the like. All seem fine. The CAS wiring was recently replaced, so I was kind of thinking that wasn't it. My local junkyard is having a new years special, where everything is 1/2 off. Should I just go and pick up a wiring harness? I'm going to try and follow the wires through, although I'm betting it won't be easy. Thanks for all the help thus far, I really appreciate it.

 

Nope. IF you went to the cas. Pulled the plug off. Put one lead of the meter on the socket where the RED wire is....then put the other meters lead on the RED wire where it connects to the ECU (plug disconnected from the ECU) and then put the meter on OHMS, then the meter should read continuity i.e. some ohm figure like .3 ohms.

Now most meter leads are not that long. So get a piece of wire that will reach b/t the ECU and the CAS. By hook or crook attach one end of that new piece of wire to one meter lead and the other to the RED wire at the ECU. Do the same with the other colored wires at the CAS plug.

IF none of the wires show continuity.....then you are on the wrong pins at the ECU ...OR you have a cut harness(not likely at all).

Hmmmm. I wonder if there is a connector b/t the cas and the ECU. Don't think so. I'll look. Doubt it though.

 

No you're right, sorry about that hailers, I was looking at it backwards. Checked all wires, all show little to no resistance, so that's good. So it's definatly the CAS then, right? Can't be ECU, wiring, coil, so must be cas. Also, as per your statement, the CAS was removed numerous times, perhaps setting the timing off. I looked and found that I need 5 ATDC (at the dead center..correct?) on the yellow mark for leading, and 20 ATDC on the red mark for trailing. I looked at the pulley just below and to the lower right of the fan, but can't seem to find a mark. Well, again thanks, you've been a great help to me.

 

This is what I replaced (with another from the junkyard). Anyway to test them?

 

When the pulley is aligned with the pointer, your cas should look like this following jpg once it's bolted down.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=23226

 

ok damn it im not getting anything..i turn the key and its dead now...i had just cleaned the coil connections too.

 

Razor, why don't you give a detailed list of what it is that you have and haven't tried.

Your problem seems interesting that you went from it wanting to kick over to totally "dead".

You do have a t2 with a bridgeport so I'd humbly suggest that you start a little more organized.

Compile the problem/symptoms in one post starting again from its initial failure.

 

xXhybrid,

Good 'ol hailers beat me to it.

 

ok tried it earlier today turned over took out plugs and cleaned dried them. then cleaned the connections on the leading and trail packs. i hooked everything back up and tried to start it and it didnt even turn over. i checked all the wired i could until it got too dark. i am charging the battery to see if that has any effect on it. i will try tomorrow when i wake up to see if anything has changed. im pretty sure i did not knock any connections loose.

 

when you replaced the ECU, are you sure you did not knock out any connectors that run up the side. I know one of those harnesses sends the firing signal to the coils

 

ok now it cranks..i guess the battery was just low. tomorrow im going to try the oil trick..maybe that will get it going if not then i dont know..

 

would the o2 sensor affect anything like starting? i need to replace a wire on mine that is exposed..

 

o2 sensor is not used during idle at all in any way shape or form.

 

then i think i figured out why im getting like 8 mpg..

 

OK - I have basically no voltage there. This is bad, right? It's consistent with no spark, no codes, but what would have caused it to go bad? The car was running before I tore it apart to do the oil seals.

thanks
Greg Landry

 

If you put a ground on the brown/white wire for any length of time.....it'll kill the reference voltage source in the ECU. That brown/white wire goes to about five sensors, so I have no idea where or what was shorted out. The ones that come to mind are the pressure/boost sensor/ atmospheric pressure sensor, tps, afm, variable resistor. There might be others. Whatever device in the ECU that it goes to also is related to the ability of the ECU to produce spark. A fellow named HENRIK might know just what that device is. I know not what it is. I just know the characteristics (spl) of it being burnt out.

 

Then again, before removing and replacing the ECU, make sure it's gettig 12v on pins 3I,3J just pull the small plug off and turn the key to ON and check. Also look for a ground on pin 2C, 2R, and 3A and 3G.

 

btw i got my car started. it was a severe case of flooding. thanks for your help