I always torque the UIM down using a torque wrench, from the inside bolts to the outside.

 

Getting a drill later, but I can't find another bolt to ground my wire on.
Even if I extend the length I don't see a bolt on the engine I can get to.... easily.

 

Update: I found a bolt that I can use it is on the lower park of the intake manifold.

 

those are not bolts, but studs. remove the intake, and replace them with the appropriate legth bolts.

it happens to me, so i have a whole set of replacements. lol

 

So that place... where I had my ground set-up... Wasn't good.
I started my car and it was too lean I assume since I couldn't keep it running for more than a few seconds.

 

I'm beginning to wonder if you should be working on cars.

A torque wrench would save you and everyone else a lot of time.

 

Yeah, me too. I had to learn somehow.
Probably should've started on a honda or something but I thought; I love rotary engines.
I love fc's.
Why not go ahead and learn on an fc.

 

lol a torque wrench is a great idea... if you have been working on cars for years u get a "feel" for how tight bolts should be.

but man when i was 16 i rmemeber breaking/striping lots of bolts from over torqueing,

haha my first diy job was to replace the alternator, you sure as hell bet i striped out that alluminum bolt hole on that brand new alternator! haha.

 

Lol, thanks. Makes me feel a bit better.
I'm 19 and this was the first car I've owned... thanks to a student loan.
Anyways, I think the problem was that I had left the MAF sensor unplugged so it went into limp mode. Then when it died it was flooded. I don't know if the MAF will actually cause it to go into limp mode or not but I'm hoping I'm right.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2#ht_500wt_749

 

ROFL, I think I might buy that.
Actually that joke just made me decide not to go to the dark side. (Honda).

Also, after reading A LOT of threads on here I'm 85 percent sure that it was just limp mode because of the MAF sensor being unplugged.

 

Thought I'd go ahead and update this for everyone that wants to rolf@me and such.
It was mostly likely in limp mode due the Mass Airflow sensor being unplugged.
Plugged it in, got a jump, I had to rev it to keep it alive for about a minute and then it ran fine. Drove it 20miles or so to charge my battery.
I love this car.
It is almost always something stupid keeping it from running.

 

OK, a few things here:

DONT buy a cheapo *** torque wrench, ESPECIALLY the 'click' type. Ive seen those cheap ones lock up and never click, and they are never accurate. Go to sears and buy one of the 'beam' type torque wrenches. A 3/8 drive will be better for normal size bolts, and I'm guessing you probably have limited sockets. The beam type are better for beginners anyway because you can watch the beam move as you add torque so it gives you a good feel. The 3/8 beam type should be only like $30.

NO, the bolt isnt doing jack **** just because 1/4 of it is in the hole- the nut is what holds the manifold together, the threads and shank are just along for the ride.

also, DONT drill the bolt out and then tap it. you will end up ruining the threads because the tap will want to cut the aluminum easier than the bits of old bolt. Also it is nearly impossible to drill the bolt perfectly centered, especially without a transfer punch. If you try to drill it close to its full size you will likely be off center and end up with an oval hole.

Get a set of easy-outs. They are not expensive, and it is something every mechanic has just for the occasional time like this. For this bolt (M8) you will want to use something around a 1/8" - 1/4" easy out. This means you center punch the bolt exactly in the center, then drill a 1/8" hole in it. It is best if you drill all the way through the bolt, you should feel it go through the bottom. Now put your shiny new 1/8" easy out in the hole and tap it in lightly with a hammer. Use your torque wrench and a square drive socket (if you dont have these, you can likely get away with using the right size 12pt) to turn the easy out counterclockwise (lefty loosey). An 1/8" easy out is only good for 20ft-lbs or so, so if you get this high without progress, move up to the next size easy out (you may have to redrill with a larger bit). A 1/4" easy out can take pretty major torque, so I would guess that by the time you get here you will have it out.

It is always a good investment to buy tools, I have spent roughly 20% of my yearly income on tools for the past 10 years, and I don't regret a penny of it.

When it comes to hand tools, if youre poor, buy craftsman. Only buy them on sale unless its something you need right now like the easy outs.

If you ask me, dont waste money on anything with a cord or an air hose. Cordless power tools are SO good nowadays. I like dewalt, but many of the others are good as well.

For right now, if youre really that broke, buy the cheapest 12-18v cordless drill you can find ($25). Buy a 3/8" craftsman beam type torque wrench($30). Buy a set of Craftsman drill bits (1/16-1/2")($25), and buy a set of craftsman easy outs ($13). Unless you are already really skinny, skip your next bigmac and throw down the extra $4 for the $17 craftsman easy out set with the reverse turn drill bits. Half the time these drill bits will pull the bolt out while youre drilling and you wont even need the easy outs.

One thing to remember, you can get by with a shitty drill, but you can't do a damn thing with cheap drill bits. Anything that has to have good material properties like a drill but, saw blade, or other cutting tool you want to buy a decent quality one, even if you are using it with a lame machine.

In one stop at sears, for the cost of 2 tanks of gas, 4 cases of beer, or 3 lap dances, you will have made yourself considerably more dangerous in the garage. Try not to demolish too much stuff. Oh wait, youre only 19, forget the beer, focus on the lap dances. Good luck with the bolt and the car. My last and very best piece of advice for you is to find someone local to you that is willing to help you out. I know you probably want to learn it all on your own, but if you just get someone knowledgeable to lend a hand and show you some things every once in a while, it will get you a lot farther a lot quicker.

 

I'm probably going to try and make it to sears sunday, but if I don't will the other bolts/studs/nuts hold the manifold together for a little while?
I'm not asking because I plan on leaving it this way, I just live 60-75 miles from the nearest hardware/department store.

I want someone to help me learn because I'm tired of breaking all my stuff.
Just hard to find anyone in this town, all they want to do is go mudding.
Not my type of people, really.

 

yeah it will most likely be fine for as long as you need it to be

 

Craftsman model number 45281 3/8ths drive = $85
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=torque+wrench

Use it for manifold bolts, suspension pieces, brake work, etc...


Craftsman model number 45282 1/2 inch drive = $85
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945282000P

Use it for subframe, crossmember, larger suspension pieces, drivetrain stuff like axle to hub nuts.


Good tools are a godsend buddy.

First of all, I like to use PB-Blaster on a stuck bolt... Soak that ************ in it.

My saving grace has been REVERSE FLUTED (Left Hand) drill bits. Cobalt type are the best. They stay the sharpest and are the hardest to break.

You may have to order these... Look up the local Grainger office.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml
That's where I got mine.

Drill S-L-O-W-L-Y...

Here's the rub. Putting a regular drill bit in might actually start tightening the bolt. Once the reverse drill bit bites in, it tries to loosen the bolt as it drills...

If the bit doesn't work, try moving up to a larger bit.
As you take out the center of the bolt, there will be less material pressing against the outside threads. This will reduce friction and you may get lucky...

You want the extractor to do the LEAST work possible. The extractors are very brittle and once you break that sucker off in there, it's almost impossible to get out because extractors are tempered... They're brittle but harder than most drill bits.

 

I don't think anyone mentioned heating the manifold around the broken bolt with a torch.

 

If you try to center a drill bit on the uneven broken stud the bit will wander.

Grind the broken bolt to a flat surface and center punch a small dimple in the middle of the stud prior to drilling.