Mo_Jo_Jo

So my 87 TII has been down for the past six months. Two weeks ago, I got my S5 street port from Atkins. I drove it about a week or so and managed to put ~600 miles on it... and gradually, over the course of ~50 miles lost oil pressure. The engine is out now and hopefully on it's way back to Atkins in the next day or so (they can be slow at times).

When I put the engine in, I just swapped everything over and kept everything that was on the engine. Now that it's out again, I'd like to go ahead and get rid of all the things (i.e. vacuum, coolant passages, etc...) that I can. I'm also going to mod the throttle body per Rotary ressurection. My question is, what do I need to have to keep the engine running smooth? I'm going to keep power steering, but I'd like to clean up everything as much as possible (the metal vacuum lines under the IM, etc...). Can I block off the coolant to the throttle body, by running a hose from the rear iron to the back of the pump ***.?

TIA

...and any write ups would be helpful...

jjwalker

Leave the metal vacuum lines unless you plan on replacing the whole assembly with steel braided vacuum hoses.

Why on earth would you want to make it harder to track down a vacuum leak??

Mo_Jo_Jo

How would this make it harder?

~5 of the metal lines are not even being used on my engine. They've been pinched shut at the end behind the LIM.

jjwalker

Then what you aren't using, cut them off at the bracket, but leave the bracket. This is assuming you still need some of the metal lines.

By the way, I would have been absolutely enraged if it took longer than a week to build my motor. A motor build is an 18 hr. job.

Mo_Jo_Jo

I think I'm going to follow the RR thread and try that.

In all fairness Dan did tell me he had about a one week lead time when I ordered the engine... guess I wasn't his only customer.

...but, on the other hand, I have to say their wait absolutely sucks. After two weeks nobody called about my core engine, even after I called back twice. We'll see what happens this time, and hopefully he can get right on it... I don't exactly enjoy pulling an engine a two weeks after it went in, and the screw up wasn't my fault.

jjwalker

Bad business if you ask me. If you can't deliver a product in a timely manner, you need to hire more trained help. If you can't get a call back on progress, even worse, they need a secretary.

Like I said, a proper motor rebuild is an 18 hr. job. If they where so busy as to take 6 MONTHS to rebuild a motor and ship it to you it shows me a lack of logistsics or pure lazyness. I dunno man, I wouldn't go back if I where you. Of course that is after they fix your busted engine.

Mo_Jo_Jo

...ok... you've misunderstood me...

I didn't wait six months for Atkins to deliver. It took about two and a half to three weeks from the time I said build it, to the time I had it.
My car has just been down for the past six months, because it wasn't a priority...

jjwalker

AH, got ya. I have had other engines built and it took a while for it to ship. Sorry.

What writeup does RR have vacuum line removal? I'd like to see it..

Mo_Jo_Jo

They get rid of all the steel lines here:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html


...the only thing I'm hesitant about, or would rather do different, is blocking off the coolant passages... I'd rather re-route them, and that's the info I'm after here.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

take the rats nest out and throw it in the trash. keep the PCV and charcoal canister. there is a ton of stuff you can remove, just depends on how you want the car to start up/drive. i took out pretty much everything else (ac, ps, bac, all the emissions crap, abs, fan, and more.) i would probably leave the bac on, all the emissions stuff can go if your state doesnt test for them. remove the AWS system.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You must understand that when you remove the coolant to the TB, the car will idle like crap when cold. You will likely have to keep your foot on the gas for a couple minutes, or adjust the TB for a high idle so it doesn't die. This doesn't bother some people, but it didn't take long to bother me. There are a number of people who have reversed the removal of the cold start/thermowax system, myself included.

If you remove the BAC valve you will increase the risk of stalling on deceleration unless you have a carefully adjusted dashpot. The BAC valve supplies extra air to the engine during cranking, and without it you may have to put your foot on the gas to start the car up quickly. That annoys me, and it may annoy you.

Mo_Jo_Jo

Thanks for the tips guys... turns out I'll have a lot more time to do the mods than I would have cared for. I'll be lucky to have the engine back in one month... that really sucks

87t-66, when you refer to removing the wiring harness, you're just cutting the connectors out of the harness, right?

If I do this, I'd remove the harness and remove the wires from the ecu plug, and re-wrap the harness. Anything wrong with doing it this way?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i didnt say anything about removing a harness...it would be best to leave your harness in tact. once you start cutting stuff, it can lead to problems. you dont want to have to replace a harness...especially the front harness...trust me.

Mo_Jo_Jo

I assumed when you said rat's nest, you meant the wiring harness... that's usually a term I would associate with a bad-messy wiring job.

Can you ellaborate on 'rats nest'?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

rats nest = the big mess of vacuum lines under the intake manifold. including the metal lines.

Mo_Jo_Jo

So, I'm the fourth owner of this car. Two owners ago a shop put in the S5 engine (original 87 TII car), and did countless other things, so I'm already missing some things.
Here's what's under my UIM.



I'm going to remove all of this and run fuel line to the lower rail and from the regulator.
I'm going to vent the case to a catch can.
Then, I should be able to remove everything here, but what are these?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/EM/solenoids.htm

Mo_Jo_Jo

Do I need to keep any of these, if I removing everything else?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

you shouldnt need any of them