I'll make sure to check that out......Do i have to remove the intake manifold to get to them? are they the injectors on the top or the bottom?

 

top, you should be able to get to them easy, also check fuel pressure, fuel pump etc, they injectors could be clogged aswell.

 

Did this happen before you replaced the plug wires?

 

Yes i started this money pit of ideas because of the problems...The car was doing great one day and then started hesitating for no reason the next.

27.99 for fuel filter
13.43 for intank filter
27.99 for O2 sensor
36.00 for TPS sensor
$179 for trailing coils

so far i've spent way too much for it not to be fixed.

I got the rest of the parts from a running parts car I have.... What about theh solienoid resistor up front would that do it?

 

swap the secondary injectors

 

RRTEC. If this is a secondary issue, you should have a DEFINATE wall at 3800. HOWEVER in neutral, you should still be able to rev higher then 3800. IS this the case?

 

No in nuetral it starts missing at 4.1k but will keep going if i leave my foot in it.... it does it while diving or just in neutral....

 

Made sure your MAP sensor isn't farked?

 

of all the times for the search function not to work.......

 

New plugs.......****, thats the first thing I swap when things start actin up. It does sound like your arching somewhere. Change the wires too. I tuned up my moms bonneville one time and it ran like crap, I took it to the dealer (friends) and he sprayed water from a windex bottle on the coils where the wires plug and I saw the arching myself. Like littlle zaps.

 

Hmmm... Starting to really sound like a pissy injector.

 

I pulled some injectors off my parts car and am going to check the resistance on them in a little bit here, it's raining like a ****, so i don't know if i'll get them in before i have to go to work... But i will test them resistance wise before i install them. I won't be able to flow test them but hopefully the resistance will check out. BTW any ideas on the coil acting up when it starts to miss, liek the trailing coils stop firing all together at high rpms....is that normal because the leading coild fire wasy harder at high rpms according to my timing light....

 

The injectors ohmed out ok..2.2 on each bump for the night i am going to the junk yard in the morning to buy a solieniod and a cpu... wish me luck and keep the ideas comming,

 

Good luck man.

 

where's the MAP sensor?

 

You dont have one. So I dont know what that ding-dong rat is thinking.

 

why did S-RAT ask if it was "Farked"? Do s5's have them or something? I wish i didn't have college algebra in 5 hours.......Just glad the search is back up. S-RAT had the same problem, i found a post of his, but he must need sleep to function because he is offline.......uggh.

PS. my apartmen t complex "threatened" to evict me for working on my car in the parking lot...I told them that there were pleanty of complexes here in franklin that would gladly take my $850 a month for a 2 bedroom. They haven't said anything about it since.... I hate apartment living...

 

Unless he is calling the AFM the MAF, no. The S5 doesnt have one either.

And you should try buying a house. Nothing like having your own garage...

 

an AFM and a MAF is the same thing, just a different name. a MAP sensor is what newer cars or standalones run off (or some piggy backs like my HKS VPC in my GVR4). I believe the difference is that one reads off air flow, the other off air pressure...

 

blah, manifold air pressure, the damned pressure sensor on the passanger strut. Sheesh!

 

Technically, thats a pressure sensor. A MAP is something different....

 

Well update and $27 poorer.... I went to the j-yard and bought the pressure sensor, the resistor soilenoid, another tps just in case and a fuse box cover.... Well they didn't have a cpu for my model, i must have a weird one mine has 9 prongs across the bottom where as every other one in the j-yard as well as my 86 parts car have a 7 prong accross the bottom row..... so anyways i am going to go outside and beat a tree, Anyone wanna buy my car, I think i might get out of the Rx-7 buisness...just too much heartache, I mean i just bought her new wheels and exhaust and suspension and strut bar, and what does she do? craps on me... ughh

 

You can use any ECU witht he same prefix...an N338 will work with an N333 etc...maybe you should PM Reted, he's very knowledgable. If the car starts and idles fine the motor is not blown - you'll find the problem soon

 

Well update again, I know you guys are probably sick of this thread but....Anyways. I have the car idling as smoth as a baby's bottom now after all the parts swapping i did, I am getting a ton of afterburn now, poping durring decel and HORRIBLE gas consumption, like 25 miles and i've used a 3/8's of a tank!!! So now i am wondering I am pretty sure the ecu is to blame, I think it's telling the injectors to dump fuel and cut off fuel intermitently. How much of an influence does the ecu have on the fuel system? I also am having trouble locating a vacume leak i can hear under the hood, it seems to be comming from the rear of the TB somewhere, i'm getting some carb cleaner in the AM and will try to track it down...

Here is the current list of things i've done

ohmed out injectors- 2,2kohms
Set TPS according to fsm
replaced solienoid resistor
replaced pressure sensor
new plugs
new wires
regrounded the motor and tranny
checked and tested CAS
New Trailing coils
New fuel filters (both)
cleaned K&N
new o2
checked connections on injectors and thremosensor
adjusted timing
tested BAC
Beat up tree
Stressed out over this too much

That's about it....
thanks for the help so far, even though none of it has fixed the problem at least I know they are replaced checked and good now....that's what my wife said today to try and cheer me up....

 

This may be a dumb question, but have you tried to pull codes yet?

And the ECU has EVERYTHING to do with fuel delivery. it takes readings from all the sensors and computes the duty cycle (or pulsewidth, whatever) of the injector for that engine event. If a sensor is giving it bad info, or if it is malfunctioning itself, then you have yourself a problem.