foild

hey guys, i guess its time for my brake pads to be changed now thast they are squeeling, but i had a couple questions:

should i a: buy 4 new pads (kvr.. hawk hps...?)
b: buy just two front (they are they only ones worn out)
c: replace all pads with mazda oem, and get new better brakelines.


which pads are best for just street?

are KVR pads any good?

my goal is to reduce fade, and have a nice bite when i brake, as i would like to practice a little light drifting.


thanks!

foild

what i would mainly like to know also, is:

do i need to machine the rotors when i change pads?

can i just replace the front pads with street performance pads, and keep rears stock?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Just because the fronts are making that squeeling noise, it doesn't mean that the pads are gone. Need to pull wheels and check before making assumptions.
If your going performance pads, I'd replace all 4 corners. If your not into panic stops, just replace the front pads. If rotors are grooved, best to replace as turning will usually take the rotor thickness past the factory limit. You can always check with a micrometer to be sure though.

foild

what would the stainless steel lines do if i replace my stock ones with them?

foild

come on guys..
Hawk HPS pads all around, or new stock's all around with stainless steel lines?

BraveBlueMice

I'd go with HPS pads up front, check the rears, and put OEMs in there if they need it.

If your brake lines are leaking or the rubber hoses (from chassis line to caliper) are cracked or show any other signs of wear, you need to replace them. And if you're going through the trouble of replacing lines, filling and bleeding the system, and such, you may as well go SS. SS lines are stronger as far as pressure goes, and more resistant to that cracking from age that the other lines are. Although, in twenty years, your SS lines may not be in the best of shape either.

OEM pads are always going to have fade because they weren't heat tested that far. They were designed for professional use, (pro driver on closed circuit.) Many of the aftermarkets (HPS) are going to be able to withstand the hot craking for longer (thereby reducing fade)

If you can feel 'ridges' in the rotor, you could use to have it turned. Any shop that will turn it will not turn it past safe spec (as per DOT). If you have any doubts about it, take it in. I personally never turn my rotors, I just take a little 300 grit sandpaper to them in a swirling motion to remove any glaze. unless they're damaged, then I replace.

If your brake system doesn't leak, you shouldn't need to bleed it, only press the pistons back in. Remember on the rears, you have to turn the piston ninety degrees before it will slide back in. (took me an hour to figure that out)...

foild

well, turns out OEM pads cost nearly as much as HPS pads all around
(60 canadian, as oposed to like.. 48 for HPS american)
i might as well replace all 4 with HPS

thanks alot for everyones help.
cam