Weird electrical stuff with Turboed n/a
#1
Weird electrical stuff with Turboed n/a
Alright got everything togther, but it doesn't get any spark, it buzzes, all the idiot light are on, and the code checker that i made stays lite instead of going off in three seconds. I tried another ECU but same thing. Does anyone have an idea?
#6
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I'm wondering if you have the code lamps installed properly, specifically the terminals positioned the right way on the plug in the engine bay.
Does she still do the same thing with that circuit disconnected?
Does she still do the same thing with that circuit disconnected?
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#14
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Dude, I don't know about the reprogramming thing, but if I was you the first thing I'd do is install an ECU that's compatible with the harness you're using...
#15
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The 881 means it was a Mazda remand.
The N332 and N333 ECU will work without a glitch. High imp injectors were introduced in jun of 87.
Check the Ohm’s on the injectors if they are 2-3ohms you need the resistor pack in the harness.
Check the CAS with a continuity tester and see if it is good and within specs. If it is good and you are not getting spark. Check the coils. If still no spark bad ECU. I went through 4ECU's in my application before I got a good one.
S5 ECU has major differences. Avoid this if you can.
From your title I gather you have a turbo NA motor. If wrong please verify you swapped a TII motor and year. As well if you swapped any harnesses over. And if they are J-spec or A-spec
The N332 and N333 ECU will work without a glitch. High imp injectors were introduced in jun of 87.
Check the Ohm’s on the injectors if they are 2-3ohms you need the resistor pack in the harness.
Check the CAS with a continuity tester and see if it is good and within specs. If it is good and you are not getting spark. Check the coils. If still no spark bad ECU. I went through 4ECU's in my application before I got a good one.
S5 ECU has major differences. Avoid this if you can.
From your title I gather you have a turbo NA motor. If wrong please verify you swapped a TII motor and year. As well if you swapped any harnesses over. And if they are J-spec or A-spec
#16
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Somethings screwy here. A N332 is just fine and dandy. Even a N333, N327,N326 would work.
A 88 model car would have had high impedence injectors..........so I can't tie your remark about the solenoid resistor into what your doing. You had a 88 (no resistor pack) so why the remark about the resistor pack??????????????????
What's the talk about a series five harness if you have a 88????????????????? You should not be using a series five harness on a series four chassis.
You should not have had any problems if your car was a 88 non turbo and you just put a turbo engine in the car (with turbo ECU N332) and turbo boost/pressure sensor (even a na sensor will not keep it from starting and driving).
Just last week I took a turbo ECU, turbo pressure sensor, turbo afm and put it in a 86 non turbo and the car runs and drives just fine with no alterations to the harness. I use this as an example of swapability with the same series.
I suspect you put a series five emissions harness in your car and that is the real problem. Got me. If you did....ditch it and put your non turbo emissions harness in the car. Some minor alterations to the tps wire lengths required.
A 88 model car would have had high impedence injectors..........so I can't tie your remark about the solenoid resistor into what your doing. You had a 88 (no resistor pack) so why the remark about the resistor pack??????????????????
What's the talk about a series five harness if you have a 88????????????????? You should not be using a series five harness on a series four chassis.
You should not have had any problems if your car was a 88 non turbo and you just put a turbo engine in the car (with turbo ECU N332) and turbo boost/pressure sensor (even a na sensor will not keep it from starting and driving).
Just last week I took a turbo ECU, turbo pressure sensor, turbo afm and put it in a 86 non turbo and the car runs and drives just fine with no alterations to the harness. I use this as an example of swapability with the same series.
I suspect you put a series five emissions harness in your car and that is the real problem. Got me. If you did....ditch it and put your non turbo emissions harness in the car. Some minor alterations to the tps wire lengths required.
#18
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Just last week I took a turbo ECU, turbo pressure sensor, turbo afm and put it in a 86 non turbo and the car runs and drives just fine with no alterations to the harness. I use this as an example of swapability with the same series.
#19
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Originally Posted by Houstonderk
The S5 harness doesn't have the same plugs at the ecu though does it?
#20
Alright here is the whole shebang. I took a running 88 n/a and took both the intake manifolds off and installed Tii manifolds with the Tii high impendence 650's. Switched the whole drivetrain over and the front cover with baffle plate from my 87 Tii. Custom did the whole oil inlet for the turbo along with the coolant passages. Put an 88 Tii harness with ecu but for some reason it makes that buzzing like the coolant level on top of the radiator is not grounding but it is. I had the two led lights to check for codes and it worked before but now they just both stay on and there is no spark. woo thats alot.
#21
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Originally Posted by Houstonderk
The S5 harness doesn't have the same plugs at the ecu though does it?
By the way, it's best if you buy a series four turbo pressure sensor to go with the turbo ECU. The non turbo I believe it's been said is a 1bar sensor and the turbo a 2bar sensor. The deal is that at zero manifold pressure they put out different voltage to the ECU. It matters very much. Although the car will start with either, just not run very smart. So if you still have the non turbo pressure sensor, not to worry, the car should and will start and idle and even run up and down the street.
#23
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Originally Posted by Houstonderk
Alright here is the whole shebang. I took a running 88 n/a and took both the intake manifolds off and installed Tii manifolds with the Tii high impendence 650's. Switched the whole drivetrain over and the front cover with baffle plate from my 87 Tii. Custom did the whole oil inlet for the turbo along with the coolant passages. Put an 88 Tii harness with ecu but for some reason it makes that buzzing like the coolant level on top of the radiator is not grounding but it is. I had the two led lights to check for codes and it worked before but now they just both stay on and there is no spark. woo thats alot.
First no no need for the harness put your N/A one on.
TII injectors are 550cc
Your intake manifol is a 4port manifol and the NA is a 6port so major issues here that need immediate attention.
Edit: I would go back to the N/A ECU and use a SAFC at the least. Do not run it without a fule controller! Well unless you feel like tearing the motor apart.
Last edited by iceblue; 06-11-05 at 09:23 PM.
#24
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**********Alright here is the whole shebang***********
About the 88 harness and ECU. The ECU should be a N333. Even a N332 or the non turbo would give you spark and let the engine run.
When I say emissions harness, I mean just that. The harness that runs from the fuel injectors, around the engine to the right fender, thru the hole in the bulkhead and to the ECU (plus a couple more plugs in the right passengers side)
IF that is the ONLY harness that has been changed, then I'd pull the small plug off the ECU and put a meter on the two sockets on the HARNESS PLUG on the far left and see if you get battery voltage with the key to ON.
About the 88 harness and ECU. The ECU should be a N333. Even a N332 or the non turbo would give you spark and let the engine run.
When I say emissions harness, I mean just that. The harness that runs from the fuel injectors, around the engine to the right fender, thru the hole in the bulkhead and to the ECU (plus a couple more plugs in the right passengers side)
IF that is the ONLY harness that has been changed, then I'd pull the small plug off the ECU and put a meter on the two sockets on the HARNESS PLUG on the far left and see if you get battery voltage with the key to ON.