Weight saving questions?
#51
i am legendary
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Originally Posted by ImprezedRS
Well I havn't removed the charcoal canistor cause i have heard diff stories about it and plus I know nothing on how to remove it? like do i need to reroute the lines or just block them off or what
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#52
i am legendary
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
unbolt it...put filter on gas tank line...plug rest.
The lights might have looked slick if you hadn't cut your bumper all up...:/...but I have no room to speak...I tried ot make it work to a few years back...
The lights might have looked slick if you hadn't cut your bumper all up...:/...but I have no room to speak...I tried ot make it work to a few years back...
#54
...94% correct.
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Why would you put a filter on the gas tank line?
Fuel pump sucks fuel from tank, creates a vacuum in the tank, air is drawn in from any source available...including the open line from the engine bay. Just a little precaution.
And before you (not referring to anyone in specific) say "that's what a vented cap is for" go get a piece of 4" PVC pipe with end caps on it. Drill three holes in it...put a shrader valve in one, then suck on another. Tell me if air draws in through the remaining open hole or the shrader valve.
#55
Just today pulled the power windows out and put the manual ones in. This is on an '85 but I bet there's not much difference on the FC.
Verdict- the manual window regulators are 3 lbs lighter than the power window ones.
This was determined by a bathroom scale. I weighed myself holding each of the regulators in turn, several times for each part. Right about 3 lbs per door is what you'll save. I'm using this method to put my FB on an autoX diet. So far I've saved an easy/cheap 50lbs without even breaking a sweat.
Verdict- the manual window regulators are 3 lbs lighter than the power window ones.
This was determined by a bathroom scale. I weighed myself holding each of the regulators in turn, several times for each part. Right about 3 lbs per door is what you'll save. I'm using this method to put my FB on an autoX diet. So far I've saved an easy/cheap 50lbs without even breaking a sweat.
#58
i am legendary
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Fuel pump sucks fuel from tank, creates a vacuum in the tank, air is drawn in from any source available...including the open line from the engine bay. Just a little precaution.
And before you (not referring to anyone in specific) say "that's what a vented cap is for" go get a piece of 4" PVC pipe with end caps on it. Drill three holes in it...put a shrader valve in one, then suck on another. Tell me if air draws in through the remaining open hole or the shrader valve.
And before you (not referring to anyone in specific) say "that's what a vented cap is for" go get a piece of 4" PVC pipe with end caps on it. Drill three holes in it...put a shrader valve in one, then suck on another. Tell me if air draws in through the remaining open hole or the shrader valve.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#61
i am legendary
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#64
i am legendary
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#66
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Im going with an Optima and and FD alternator in my car, Im ******* sick of breaking down in all of my cars due to charging problems.. Screw lightweight batteries, if you're broken down, what will that lost weight help?
#67
Originally Posted by Impreza2RX7
Im going with an Optima and and FD alternator in my car, Im ******* sick of breaking down in all of my cars due to charging problems.. Screw lightweight batteries, if you're broken down, what will that lost weight help?
#68
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Remove the big heavy bumpers under the bumper skins. Fabricate some light aluminum framing and put them in place of the heavy stock bumbers and use some of that construction expanding foam to fill the gaps. It should save weight both front and rear about equally. Just use a lawnmover 12v Battery. (weight... 20 pounds (for $17) ) half that of a full size battery. Unless you are a stereo guy then you will be fine (I have had one in my FD for years, no problems). If your car is GXL removce the power stering and go with a manual rack. Power windows are about 1 poiund heavier than manual per side... not that much. BUT the inner door panel is also heavier because of the pockets and lights.. Another 1-2 pounds.
Keep your Bins empty, run 1/2 tank of gas, remove the spare, jack and everythign else... (unless on a long trip)
Remove winshield washer tank and wiper motor (use Rain-X) Keep the wipers though so the cops will leave you alone.
remove all emmisions... Air pump and etc.
remove A/c
Get light wheels
lighter Flywheel
remove cold start assist system
under the bins is some sound deadening stuff as well as back under the spare tire flap
remove the rear wiper stuff and tank
remove the alarm control and power steering electronics box (GXL)
remove A/C
remove exhaust shielding
go on a jenny craig diet yourself
Keep your Bins empty, run 1/2 tank of gas, remove the spare, jack and everythign else... (unless on a long trip)
Remove winshield washer tank and wiper motor (use Rain-X) Keep the wipers though so the cops will leave you alone.
remove all emmisions... Air pump and etc.
remove A/c
Get light wheels
lighter Flywheel
remove cold start assist system
under the bins is some sound deadening stuff as well as back under the spare tire flap
remove the rear wiper stuff and tank
remove the alarm control and power steering electronics box (GXL)
remove A/C
remove exhaust shielding
go on a jenny craig diet yourself
#70
trying to build a racecar
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If this car is not for the street then it doesn't need side windows at all. No glass, no regulator, no crank, no guide tracks. Pull out the weather striping too.
The side impact beams are about 5lbs each.
If you are going to have a Lexan front windshield you won't want a wiper. I think it would scratch it up pretty easily. Just keep RainX on it. So that means you can pull all the mechanical bits and wiring associated with the wiper system.
Sound deadening tar is usually around 20lbs total, for the whole car.
The side impact beams are about 5lbs each.
If you are going to have a Lexan front windshield you won't want a wiper. I think it would scratch it up pretty easily. Just keep RainX on it. So that means you can pull all the mechanical bits and wiring associated with the wiper system.
Sound deadening tar is usually around 20lbs total, for the whole car.
#71
i am legendary
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Originally Posted by Impreza2RX7
Im going with an Optima and and FD alternator in my car, Im ******* sick of breaking down in all of my cars due to charging problems.. Screw lightweight batteries, if you're broken down, what will that lost weight help?
#72
S4 now S6 soon...
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Power windows aren't light, manual windows are lighter. But, lexan windows with a srap for rolling them up and down are the lightest! Look into it, they were really popular on old school drag cars. They just have this strap that if you pull it and put it on a hook in the door the window is up, but if you take it off the hood the window will slide down to the bottom of the tracks. Means you can open/close your windows alot faster too! (It was a really popular mod on old *****'s drag cars so check there)
#73
Imprez, what did you use to clean the rear of the car (inside) underneath all the carpeting and sound deadening material? after 16 years mine is a little dirty, dunno what to use on it though. obviously not soap and water because the water would have no where to drain, and with all the wires around... im thinking acetone or laquer thinner?
#74
wtf's a piston
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Dude, get an FB S1 or S2 a 79' rx7 weighs 1900lbs and some change. You have to swap out the little 12a for a nice 13bt, but its worth how fast it will be. Every 10lbs you take off is almost like getting 1 extra hp.
#75
Lets rock.
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Originally Posted by gerbraldy
Dude, get an FB S1 or S2 a 79' rx7 weighs 1900lbs and some change. You have to swap out the little 12a for a nice 13bt, but its worth how fast it will be. Every 10lbs you take off is almost like getting 1 extra hp.