weight reduction
#26
The mystery of the prize.
Originally Posted by therotaryrocket
my 88 turbo II has abs. if you take out the powersteering pump and lines do you have to switch to a manual rack?
#27
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
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Originally Posted by Mint87RX7
how hard is it to move the a/c? ive wanted to but never realy looked at it, its pressurized right?
if you want to remove it all, there is a unit under the dash behind the glove box that should be replaced with a tube/hose from a non-A/C car in order to get the most weight savings. you could find that tube/hose at a junkyard or from someone parting out their car, it conencts the blower motor to the heater controls/vents when the A/C unit is removed from the dash.
#28
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by torean
if this is going to be ur daily driver....no point in making it into something thats not comfortable.....assuming u work.....or have a job or something....keep the AC....thats the best advice i can give.....and if ur really gunho about weight reduction...get those lexan hatch glass....
ps....CF does not equal cheap.... nor does anything car related.....
ps....CF does not equal cheap.... nor does anything car related.....
where can i get lexan?
#29
King of the Loop
Originally Posted by rx7b13
where can i get lexan?
#31
Originally Posted by rx7b13
where can i get lexan?
#32
i am legendary
Originally Posted by Mankdrake 2661
About that P/S remoiving.....
Is the same manual rack that's in the 7 the same as other models. Or is it RX7 specific? Could I take a rack out of a Miata or something if I can't find a RX7?
Is the same manual rack that's in the 7 the same as other models. Or is it RX7 specific? Could I take a rack out of a Miata or something if I can't find a RX7?
#34
Displacement > Boost
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Don't forget wheel weight folks, they make a difference in acceleration beyond just the reduction in total vehicle weight. Rotational inertia is greatly reduced with lighter wheels / tires, and a smaller tire diamater (for example, by running something like 205/50/15 Falken Azenis tires on stock 15" rims) gives the effect of a taller rear end ratio. I guarantee you my car accelerates faster on its autocross rims/tires which have a ~ 23" total diamater, as opposed to stockers with 24.5" diamater. Bling bling 17's have a TON of rotational inertia and will slow down the car when it accelerates or brakes.
Don't let yourself get spanked at the dragstrip by some base model FC with stock rims and smaller than normal diameter tires! Bling is not necessary for FC's. Contrary to popular belief, bling + FC does not = hott chix.
Don't let yourself get spanked at the dragstrip by some base model FC with stock rims and smaller than normal diameter tires! Bling is not necessary for FC's. Contrary to popular belief, bling + FC does not = hott chix.
#35
i am legendary
Originally Posted by 88IntegraLS
Don't forget wheel weight folks, they make a difference in acceleration beyond just the reduction in total vehicle weight. Rotational inertia is greatly reduced with lighter wheels / tires, and a smaller tire diamater (for example, by running something like 205/50/15 Falken Azenis tires on stock 15" rims) gives the effect of a taller rear end ratio. I guarantee you my car accelerates faster on its autocross rims/tires which have a ~ 23" total diamater, as opposed to stockers with 24.5" diamater. Bling bling 17's have a TON of rotational inertia and will slow down the car when it accelerates or brakes.
Don't let yourself get spanked at the dragstrip by some base model FC with stock rims and smaller than normal diameter tires! Bling is not necessary for FC's. Contrary to popular belief, bling + FC does not = hott chix.
Don't let yourself get spanked at the dragstrip by some base model FC with stock rims and smaller than normal diameter tires! Bling is not necessary for FC's. Contrary to popular belief, bling + FC does not = hott chix.
#37
Displacement > Boost
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Titanium lugs make about as much sense as putting a lexan sunroof in, the lugs are on a radius of about 2.25" from the center, compared to most of the rim weight being 7.5" out. The rotational moment of inertia is porportional to the radius squared, meaning that a pound of weight 10" away has 100x the effect on rotational acceleration compared to a pound an inch away. Titanium lugs wouldn't give you anything, I'd rather run titatinum valve stem caps, haha. j/k
Stock S5 15" rims are very light just like BBS vert rims (~12lbs ea.), and don't forget tire weight. Potenza RE92s are pretty light.
Stock 14's are 13.5lbs and are pretty light but the BBS or S5 5 star 15's are the best stock rims for weight vs. size IMO. If you have so much power that you need 16's, the S5 TII / GTUs rims are about average at 18ish lbs, but FD rims are the best choice in that size at 13-16.5lbs if you are willing to run spacers.
Stock S5 15" rims are very light just like BBS vert rims (~12lbs ea.), and don't forget tire weight. Potenza RE92s are pretty light.
Stock 14's are 13.5lbs and are pretty light but the BBS or S5 5 star 15's are the best stock rims for weight vs. size IMO. If you have so much power that you need 16's, the S5 TII / GTUs rims are about average at 18ish lbs, but FD rims are the best choice in that size at 13-16.5lbs if you are willing to run spacers.
#38
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Originally Posted by torean
true that.....upgrade to the 4 lug setup and get the 14 inch phone dialers
Look at your FC from an engineering standpoint guys, it's pretty simple. Listen to your inner physicist and analyze the car's performance potential with mental free-body-diagrams and equations of equilibrium, it's not hard.
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