VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Sears sells a tool for broken studs. It's a reverse bit.
Next time use anti-seize on any bolt that come in contact with water.
It's a really simple problem you have. The front iron is cast so you really have to **** up to destroy the threads. You may not align the drill when you're looking down so use a mirror to align the drill to drill straight as possible.

In this situation , the reverse bit will be your best bet. Very easy to use.
Use a lot of WD40 in there and when you use the reverse bit, it grabs and extracts it out .

I'd replace all those old bolts.

Kenshin XI

iTrader: (2)

Its the piece that goes in front of the the first rotor housing, what the water pump housing and water pump bolt onto and only a small piece maybe about 5-6mm thats broken into the cover so I was able to get the majority of the stud securely tightened into it. Its tightened and isnt going to cause a problem after the water pump housing and pump are reinstalled and locked down by the nuts.

Kenshin XI

iTrader: (2)

When I have money, Ill buy all those things. But for now I have to work with what I have which is borderline sufficient enough. Until later by the end of this summer I may buy a new water pump, new colored lightweight pulleys and belts and maybe a double electric fan, and perhaps another RX-7 but a TII while keeping my na still.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

I'd add a couple new bolts to the list. Temporary fixes should be temporary.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

no, no, and no....

1.) The stock pulleys are light, no one that i have ever seen makes "light weight" pulleys for a practical street application.

2.) if the water pump is not bad (no shaft play) not leaking, and doesnt look like its corroded to hell dont waste your money. They are very easy to change should it ever go bad (should take no more then 30min)

3.) Taurus E-fan, search it and get learned

If you want this car to be reliable you'll need to do this:
- replace all the vacuum lines and remove the rats nest if your not in an emission picky state

- replace all the rubber fuel lines and clamps (with the good FI band clamps, not the worm screw type)

- remove the factory fuel filter when replacing fuel lines and replace with a nissan 300zx Twin Turbo fuel filter (1990+), rout the filter in some easy-to-get location in engine bay

-pull injectors and have them flow tested and cleaned at minimum, possibly rebuilt or replaced (very common on rx7's to have crapped out injectors)

-replace Radiator hoses/heater/coolant hoses and hose clamps

-inspect wires and plugs, replace wires if needed and replace plugs if they are needed or not NGK plugs

- o2 sensor (they're 12 bucks)

This will have most cars running reliably for years after this thorough of a service

clokker

iTrader: (2)

What's the advantage of the Nissan fuel filter?

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

cheap, most parts stores carry them in stock, flows lots of fuel, holds lots of crud

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Those parts I've said to use is only about 12. and another 2. for anti seize.
You can even rent it at parts store.