Water leaking into the engine
#1
Water leaking into the engine
I just had my car diagnosed yesterday and the results came back saying I had water leakage in both of my rotor housings and rotors...They suggested having it rebuilt, what is your guyses opinion on what I should do?
I'm sure I could of searched this but I would like to hear some new opinions on what is wrong and what can be done.
I'm sure I could of searched this but I would like to hear some new opinions on what is wrong and what can be done.
#2
What do they mean by water leaking into your housings? Are they referring to coolant? If so, does the car smoke a lot? Are you losing coolant somewhere? If you answer no to both of those questions, it is doubful that you have an internal coolant leak and it sounds like they are trying to sell you something you don't need.
Tell us why you had it in for diagnosis and maybe someone here can offer up some suggestions on other things to check.
Tell us why you had it in for diagnosis and maybe someone here can offer up some suggestions on other things to check.
#3
Well the car was heating up very very quickly. And it has a had a lot of hot start problems. They said Water was leaking into the oil an into the engine.
more details later...I don't really have the full report with me at the moment.
more details later...I don't really have the full report with me at the moment.
#4
Are you constantly having to unflood it?
if so thats exactly what is happening to me right now. except its only my rear rotor housing. My coolant seals are gone. What you do is take out the bottom spark plug and if you see water comming out of it then your seals are gone. And it will need a rebuild. But with the price of rebuild i jsut chose to do a T2 swap on the car instead, since it will cost me about the same. And i can Achieve the HP numbers(300) that i want with a T2 and still keep it relativly stable then i can with a N/A.
if so thats exactly what is happening to me right now. except its only my rear rotor housing. My coolant seals are gone. What you do is take out the bottom spark plug and if you see water comming out of it then your seals are gone. And it will need a rebuild. But with the price of rebuild i jsut chose to do a T2 swap on the car instead, since it will cost me about the same. And i can Achieve the HP numbers(300) that i want with a T2 and still keep it relativly stable then i can with a N/A.
#5
ok what you need to do is learn how to diagnose your problems. about 2 days ago a guy on the forums had a possible blown coolant seal. My suggestion: top off the coolant and burp it (make sure it is 100% full. its tough sometimes to know if it is topped off). when you start it (cold) with the rad cap off if you see small bubbles then they are right. Also smoking and a sweet smell when running is a dead giveaway.
best of luck
dave.
best of luck
dave.
#7
Originally Posted by CrypticApathy
Are you constantly having to unflood it?
if so thats exactly what is happening to me right now. except its only my rear rotor housing. My coolant seals are gone. What you do is take out the bottom spark plug and if you see water comming out of it then your seals are gone. And it will need a rebuild. But with the price of rebuild i jsut chose to do a T2 swap on the car instead, since it will cost me about the same. And i can Achieve the HP numbers(300) that i want with a T2 and still keep it relativly stable then i can with a N/A.
if so thats exactly what is happening to me right now. except its only my rear rotor housing. My coolant seals are gone. What you do is take out the bottom spark plug and if you see water comming out of it then your seals are gone. And it will need a rebuild. But with the price of rebuild i jsut chose to do a T2 swap on the car instead, since it will cost me about the same. And i can Achieve the HP numbers(300) that i want with a T2 and still keep it relativly stable then i can with a N/A.
One thing I noticed is afetr the car had been runing for a while I would touch the radiator cap and it would feel cold, not hot like it had before. I had a friend say that it was my water pump going out.
I'm gonna take the time to see exactly what it is, I was planning to rebuild the engine in the summer anyway...But now I might as well start now.
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#10
then you're not burning coolant... have you removed any of your emissions/idle equipment? An external coolant leak is easy to find. Look for the drips. Are you having to add coolant? That's an easy way to see if you're "burning" or leaking coolant? The flooding, I've learned from personal experience, can be more than compression and injector problems.
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
coolant o-rings are toast.
when your car is being run it pushes exhaust into your coolant, when shut off, the coolant leaks into your combustion chamber and you get white smoke at start up especially.
This smoke will be whiteish and will smell sweet like coolant. Fuel Flooding will also come out whiteish if you're unflooding w/o ignition but smells horribly of fuel.
time for a rebuild. You can get away with just the o-rings and soft seals if your motor and all seals are still within specs. Although new seals are always nice, along w/ housings. But gets expensive.
Just replacing whats out of spec will work just fine. You won't gain any power, but it will fix the coolant leak problem.
A cheap but TEMPORARY fix is to use that copper radiator sealer junk. I stress on temporary. Do not expect this to last more than a few months.
-Ben Martin
when your car is being run it pushes exhaust into your coolant, when shut off, the coolant leaks into your combustion chamber and you get white smoke at start up especially.
This smoke will be whiteish and will smell sweet like coolant. Fuel Flooding will also come out whiteish if you're unflooding w/o ignition but smells horribly of fuel.
time for a rebuild. You can get away with just the o-rings and soft seals if your motor and all seals are still within specs. Although new seals are always nice, along w/ housings. But gets expensive.
Just replacing whats out of spec will work just fine. You won't gain any power, but it will fix the coolant leak problem.
A cheap but TEMPORARY fix is to use that copper radiator sealer junk. I stress on temporary. Do not expect this to last more than a few months.
-Ben Martin
Last edited by Node; 04-09-06 at 02:36 PM.
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