waste gate issue
11-07-11, 02:46 PM
#1
rotory chicken
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waste gate issue
my waste gate plunger is bent i have a very modded seven but its my first turbo should i worry about this ? should i just replace it ?
11-07-11, 03:56 PM
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rotory chicken
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im not sure how it got bent it is kinda way up there it looks stock. i have checked with mazda trix and they sell some new ones that dont use diaphrams if i decide to buy it will it effect my tuning ? and also by the looks of it it could have been damaged when the rebuild was being placed in the car would that have effected the tuning in the first place ?
11-07-11, 04:05 PM
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You could always buy a cheaper used one in the 2nd Generation RX-7 (1986-1992) Parts section.
As long as it is the same part, I wouldn't think it would have an effect on your current tuning.
As for this affecting your tuning in the first place... I am not sure. Was it bent while being tuned?
As long as it is the same part, I wouldn't think it would have an effect on your current tuning.
As for this affecting your tuning in the first place... I am not sure. Was it bent while being tuned?
11-07-11, 04:13 PM
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rotory chicken
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i could oh also im told that the wasstgate that is installed is ported that sounds kinda fishy to me can you even do that ? and yes i think if it was damaged when it would be out in the open it would have been before the tuning sessions
11-07-11, 04:15 PM
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Yes. Porting the wastegate is very common. It prevents boost creep and overboost... As stated here: http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/s4wastegate.htm
Do you not do the work on your car?
Do you not do the work on your car?
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11-07-11, 04:28 PM
#8
rotory chicken
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ive been trying to do as much work as i can on it myself i purchased it from a fellow member as nice as it is i think it was a mistake due to its a little over my knowlede base and its my first turbo it was kinda a time versus money deal had too much money not enough time lol so as far as my wastgate if i buy the nice mazdatrix one would it need to be ported as well im getting a little worried now
11-08-11, 08:44 PM
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http://mazdatrix.com/wastegates-blowoffs.htm im thinking one of these
11-10-11, 10:48 AM
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You should take a pic of the area in question. Looking at your album, your engine is pretty far from stock and you can't really see the wastegate situation. I have an S4 TII with a ported wastegate and stock wastegate actuator. The porting definitily controlled my boost creep issue and the whole system works fine. And if your car is making 339 rwhp like it says in your profile and boost levels are within check, you're wastegate is probably fine.
As Karack said, spend some time reading before you go to far into messing with your nice TII. Here is a good site to waste some time reading about turbo FC's:
http://www.fc3spro.com/main.html
As Karack said, spend some time reading before you go to far into messing with your nice TII. Here is a good site to waste some time reading about turbo FC's:
http://www.fc3spro.com/main.html
Last edited by TIIFC3S; 11-10-11 at 10:53 AM.
11-10-11, 11:49 AM
#15
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Well I thought I had a boost leak karak. And i did a smoke test cuz i have a access to a full shop when I'm home no boost leak when we applied a few psi of smoke so we put it up on the rack to inspect everything. While inspecting I found the wastegate had its plunger rod bent the rod wouldn't move back and forth my waste gate is supposed to be ported as well by the way thanks for the suggestions of books karack they have been helpful
11-10-11, 07:28 PM
#17
^ Sometimes. I don't think it's really an issue though. If the compressor housing gets clocked to a different angle, the wastegate actuator rod might not be at the proper angle to open the wastegate.
Ported just means that there is more room for exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo when the wastegate is open. At a set boost pressure (whatever the wastegate is set to) the wastegate will open, allowing exhaust gasses to go directly to the exhaust system, instead of through the turbo, thus preventing over boost. I highly suspect it is ported.
Ported just means that there is more room for exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo when the wastegate is open. At a set boost pressure (whatever the wastegate is set to) the wastegate will open, allowing exhaust gasses to go directly to the exhaust system, instead of through the turbo, thus preventing over boost. I highly suspect it is ported.
11-11-11, 06:28 PM
#19
No. It's really not that easy.
If you're that concerned with the wastegate operation, get a hand vacuum pump (aka mityvac) and see if it operates. The mityvac has 2 modes of operation... vacuum and pressure. Yes, it will be enough to move the wastegate.
Do you have a boost gauge? A car modified like that should have a boost gauge at least. If so, what does it reach?
If you're that concerned with the wastegate operation, get a hand vacuum pump (aka mityvac) and see if it operates. The mityvac has 2 modes of operation... vacuum and pressure. Yes, it will be enough to move the wastegate.
Do you have a boost gauge? A car modified like that should have a boost gauge at least. If so, what does it reach?
11-11-11, 07:14 PM
#20
the S5 wastegate rod is bent at an angle, you also really cannot move it by hand, it takes a bit of force.
to test it hook up a pressure gauge to a tee and add compressed air to the other end of the tee with the third end hooked up to the wastegate, it should start to extend at around 5-6psi. inversely you can hook up a vacuum pump to the wastegate actuator and pump it up to 20"Hg and see if it leaks down over several minutes. if the diaphragm tests ok i doubt there's any issue.
im no weakling and it's a pain to move by hand for me. if it was jammed like you say the motor would be a brick first time you boosted it.
to test it hook up a pressure gauge to a tee and add compressed air to the other end of the tee with the third end hooked up to the wastegate, it should start to extend at around 5-6psi. inversely you can hook up a vacuum pump to the wastegate actuator and pump it up to 20"Hg and see if it leaks down over several minutes. if the diaphragm tests ok i doubt there's any issue.
im no weakling and it's a pain to move by hand for me. if it was jammed like you say the motor would be a brick first time you boosted it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-11-11 at 07:17 PM.
12-01-11, 01:04 AM
#21
rotory chicken
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sweet! i have tested it and it seems so be working fine .it must be my bov causing the surge. lol i guess i was thinking of the very suttle sounds that the fc in initial d makes thats pretty much what i imagine as normal. but anyway here are my latest issues took the car on a 800 mile trip it all went well exept being pulled over twice ! my car is heavily modded as we have discussed before i will try to mention anything useful. before my trip i installed a volt meter the reason for this was im not charging as much as i should. the gauge says 12v at idle and 14-15 at about 3k rpm also i have a 135 amp alty and lucky 7 pullys . also a alcohol heat gauge with the end of the lead on the top of the thermostat housing. well first i checked the fluids and the little pressure release deally on my radiator broke off i replaced it with some parts from the hardware store. cheap godspeed they could have given us quality metal parts. oh well car was fine for many miles then buzzer at about 700 miles .so i pulled over and my oil was nearly 2 quarts low ! filled it up made it home the whole time my new temp gauge never went over about 195* f so before winterizing my car i decided to burn some rubber did a few donuts pissed of some hoped up subers and went to the bar maybe 10 miles i noticed my temp gauge is going up and down from close to 220 down to 190 its never done this before . i wasnt pounding the throttle as you might think just driving at a steady pace with a few stops at lights so
! 1 whats up with my volts and amps ?
@2 whats wrong with my cooling and what are safe temps to operate my vehicle at ?
#3 where do you think my oil is going ? i did notice a small leak on my oil pan but nothing that should lose that much !
! 1 whats up with my volts and amps ?
@2 whats wrong with my cooling and what are safe temps to operate my vehicle at ?
#3 where do you think my oil is going ? i did notice a small leak on my oil pan but nothing that should lose that much !
12-01-11, 11:00 AM
#22
I don't know about the lucky 7 pulley, but if it's an underdrive pulley, you'll be showing approx 12v at idle. No big deal.
At 16psi, which is what most FC radiator caps are, plain water boils at 250F. With a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix at 16 psi, that number jumps to about 265F. Keep in mind that around 300F, the coolant seals melt. I keep temps down to 200F and below, and my radiator fan is set to come on at 185F. Check/replace your radiator cap(s), and coolant overflow tank level.
#3 is my favorite one.
It's a rotary, so I wonder where it could possibly go...
At 16psi, which is what most FC radiator caps are, plain water boils at 250F. With a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix at 16 psi, that number jumps to about 265F. Keep in mind that around 300F, the coolant seals melt. I keep temps down to 200F and below, and my radiator fan is set to come on at 185F. Check/replace your radiator cap(s), and coolant overflow tank level.
#3 is my favorite one.
It's a rotary, so I wonder where it could possibly go...
12-01-11, 06:51 PM
#23
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well that makes me feel a little better but im still woundering if the voltage is causing my e fan to not turn on all at the stop lights also before i take it out tonight i will check my coolant levels maybe they are slightly low and im geting surges of hottt engine coolant thats the only thing i can think of that would make it jump so very fast as for my volts what can i do to get it to charge a little closer to idle ? a bigger pully maybe ?
12-01-11, 06:56 PM
#24
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oh and about #3 i have no omp i premix so i know its not that it only smokes first maybe min after a start up and the smoke is very light and white smells like fuel not oil
12-01-11, 07:18 PM
#25
Low voltage won't cause the fan to not turn on. And you're only going to need the fan when the car is stopped or at very low speeds. Like I said, I'd replace the radiator cap and check coolant levels.
Find someone selling a dual alt pulley that's not underdriven. I think Japan2LA sells them.
Premix... that changes things Then you're either leaking a small amount past the turbo or oil control rings. More than likely it's going out the turbo and getting burned clean before you can see smoke.
Find someone selling a dual alt pulley that's not underdriven. I think Japan2LA sells them.
Premix... that changes things
Then you're either leaking a small amount past the turbo or oil control rings. More than likely it's going out the turbo and getting burned clean before you can see smoke.