Hey all,

I know for a clutch type like I have I can go to Mazdatrix and get the thicker discs and shims: http://www.mazdatrix.com/G8LSD.HTM

But the question is how much should I increase thickness to say double the lockup? I am road racing and the rear end just does not want to use both wheel evenly when I am coming out of tight corners. I could get on it earlier and more if the LSD would share the torque between the tires more evenly. Coming off the track the tire temperature differential is sometimes 30 degrees between the two tires.

Thanks,
Ben

 

you could shim it for the price of beer lol
NoPistons! did a write up, but i cant recall if he ever had any driving impressions on it, i think he was going for drift-aggressive lock.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=108

 

My lsd was re-amemiya super racing. It's almost identical to the tII clutch type BUT it uses MASSIVE spring packs vs 2x conical washers.

Not sure how the ramps are but mine were ground 2 way so it was a 2 way diff.

I shimmed mine to compensate for whatever wear the disks had without bothering to test out the diff beforehand but i can say it wasn't agressive enough and i could have stood to add another mazda clutch disk on either side to tighten it up more to act more or less like a welded diff.

I've since sold the thing and i'm on a welded now. Trust me, it's not by choice. I needed money and was forced to sell that hunk of awesome. It's in good hands now. Grip driving, the thing was downright awesome. Drifting, it wasn't as tight as i would have liked because i am a noob and was afraid to lay the hammer down to keep it locked. I regretted selling it the moment i put it up for sale.


Pictures in my thread are long gone (sorry guys) but pretty much i just cut beer cans up and put them in the locked sections of the diff. Meaning putting my aluminum beer disks in parts of the diff that will not put any friction on them. The ends, between spring packs (if you can source re-amemiya springs) are the only places i can think of or you could double stack mazda conical springs and use a vice to lock the end plate onto the diff as you put the retaining screws on. Slipping an extra clutch plate/disk in is also an option.

I pretty much had NO previous experience doing this and it was all an "experiment". There wasn't much info on the interweb either. I think it turned out great. Just use common sense and you should be fine. If you can borrow a transmission jack (for tuning the diff without muscling the subframe back in), do so.

These CAN be very good units. It's a shame people weld em or discard them.

 

NP,

thanks for the additional info. You shimmed to compenate. Do you remember how much you compensated? How was the LSD before as compared to after? Can you give specific instances of the differences on the track?

Thanks,
Ben

 

on the 1st gens mazda sells oversize clutches, so it makes it pretty simple

we usually just measure breakaway TQ

i'm not sure whats out there for a t2 diff, but even new discs would probably help it

 

Lol. Nothing was measured. Just a visual inspect and "lets throw **** in here to make it good".

There was no before/after comparison. I took it apart and shimmed it like the week after i got it.

The less the cam/ramp has to lock the clutch plates together, the more responsive the diff will be.

Also, put THICK GEAR OIL IN. REALLY THICK. It stinks, you'll hate it but it will help your diff last heaps longer. Not sure if the off the shelf posi-additive at vatozone will do anything.

OEM style clutch type diffs are so smooth, you dont even know they are there unless you are driving somewhat spiritedly.

I KNEW it was working and staying locked like it was supposed to during "track" use.

Lol. Track......