Voltmeter doesn't function. :(
09-01-04, 07:59 AM
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Voltmeter doesn't function. :(
Since I've gotton the car, the volt meter has never worked. I pulled the instrument cluster out, cleaned all the connections and checked for bad solder points, and it still won't work. Where does it hook up engine-wise and get the voltage from? I might just have to run a digital meter from the battery, but would rather have the in-dash one functioning. Thanks for any advice. 
09-01-04, 08:25 AM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
did you clean the screw contacts on the back of the guages??? Most of the time if Volt is not working then the screws have corroded.
The only other thing I would look for is to see if someone swapped gauges and used a Turbo gauge harness (but it still should work if the oil pressure gauge works).
The only other thing I would look for is to see if someone swapped gauges and used a Turbo gauge harness (but it still should work if the oil pressure gauge works).
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chirmstream (03-19-22)
09-01-04, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
did you clean the screw contacts on the back of the guages??? Most of the time if Volt is not working then the screws have corroded.
The only other thing I would look for is to see if someone swapped gauges and used a Turbo gauge harness (but it still should work if the oil pressure gauge works).
The only other thing I would look for is to see if someone swapped gauges and used a Turbo gauge harness (but it still should work if the oil pressure gauge works).
09-01-04, 03:36 PM
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
well the gauge itself gets its power from the same place as all the other gauges, and that + and - travel down the screws to the gauge... so if it is not the screws (which 99% of the time it is), running a wire will not help you. You would need to replace the gauage.
10-25-04, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
well the gauge itself gets its power from the same place as all the other gauges, and that + and - travel down the screws to the gauge... so if it is not the screws (which 99% of the time it is), running a wire will not help you. You would need to replace the gauage.
Anyways, one of the screws was missing from the back of the cluster, so I put it back in, and now the voltmeter works like a charm, hehe.
After getting that to work messed with my oil pressure guage though. When you power the car down, it sinks below it's normal resting spot, so it's not at a 90 degree angle anymore.
It still works, but my readings are off by the amount it sinks when oyu shut everything. Not the end of the world, but it gives me something to do in the future I guess.
10-25-04, 03:47 PM
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by uRizen
Hey, just pulled apart the whole thing because I broke the rest of my clips for the instrument surround by trying to push the trip odometer reset while taking a corner, catching my arm in between like a dumb ***, and freaking out.
Anyways, one of the screws was missing from the back of the cluster, so I put it back in, and now the voltmeter works like a charm, hehe.
After getting that to work messed with my oil pressure guage though. When you power the car down, it sinks below it's normal resting spot, so it's not at a 90 degree angle anymore. It still works, but my readings are off by the amount it sinks when oyu shut everything. Not the end of the world, but it gives me something to do in the future I guess.
Anyways, one of the screws was missing from the back of the cluster, so I put it back in, and now the voltmeter works like a charm, hehe.
After getting that to work messed with my oil pressure guage though. When you power the car down, it sinks below it's normal resting spot, so it's not at a 90 degree angle anymore.
It still works, but my readings are off by the amount it sinks when oyu shut everything. Not the end of the world, but it gives me something to do in the future I guess. You can trry pushing the indicator past its normal stop, to repostition it, but avoid removing the indicator all together and thinking that you will be able to get it back on (its spring loaded with a counterweight, and a pain in the *** to get back on and even halfway calibrated).
Last edited by Icemark; 10-25-04 at 03:51 PM.
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