WannaSeeMyWankel

when this baby hit's 88 MPH....your gonna see some serious ****!

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

but seriously....I am off from work all day wednesday, so expect a new video...I am swapping crank pullies with another motor I have, cuz the pulley on there has no marks, re-time it, unflood it and hopefully she'll start rite up

WannaSeeMyWankel

Ok...heres a pic of my pulley...It has 2 white marks...I guess over the 20 years the red and yellow dye faded. So which one is leading and which one is trailing? Also, am I correct in assuming that this pulley can only be installed one way?

MARTIN

Those arent the marks... The marks never fade, they are etched in the outter rim of the pulley( closest to the engine). I dont know if its the camera angle or something, but that doesnt look like the main pulley to me.

WannaSeeMyWankel

I'll look into that...but I didn't see any other marks besides these two...this isn't the main pulley, this is the biggest of the three. The main one is closest to the engine, the double pulley correct? And the marks are etched into the rim or the face of the pulley?

WannaSeeMyWankel

Ok, I gotcha, there are notches in the rim of the pulley...Which one is leading and which one is trailing? Also, which one do I line up with the crank sensor's "0 position", leading or trailing?

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

IIRC, the leading is yellow. Looking a motor with the pulley facing you, and you farthest from the clutch, the leading is to the right, and the trailing, red, is to the left.

Edit: Line up the CAS to the leading, yellow.

Edit 2: Pic. :-)

WannaSeeMyWankel

Awesome...thanks for the info...I just cleaned up the pulley realy nice with a whiz wheel, it cam out really nice...I'll let you guys know how it all works out, hopefully it'll do it...

1SxyRXy

seems like an ignition problem and a short with your lights. because the tach jumps to like 2grand then to 1grand and its just all over the place. check all your wiring to see if something you wired up came loose or something check the fuse panel in the car to see if anything is melted or anything

camman

first and foremost. DO NOT tap into any power, ground or signal wire to the ecm. Solid state componants are vary sensitive to voltage and currant changes. You should run your a/m accesories their own power and grounds. Factory wiring is engineered for specific currents. After you fix your wiring to your a/m stuff start over. First check for spark. Second, check fuel pressure. Then check compression. If all are good your timing is off. Some times starting over in an orginized fashion will get your car fixed quicker.

WannaSeeMyWankel

Ok...new pulley, set timing....timing is DEFINATELY CORRECT! Still cranks like crazy but no start...I'm shot...I don't know what to do...I'm about to buy an IROC....someone help me...anyone know anybody in the Long Island Area that can come look at this thing?

MARTIN

have you tried push or pull starting it ?? By push or pull starting, its easier to diagnose a problem....

Pookie

I agree. Pull that bitch.

turbo2SE

iTrader: (1)

WannaSeeMyWankel make another vid for us bud.....i want to see your progress.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

I had to pull one TII about 20 blocks. Brought it back, and it cranked right up. Its worth a shot.

+1 on a new video.

unek87

his right

WannaSeeMyWankel

Can't pull/push start it yet, still waiting for my driveshaft (n/a auto-turbo 5sp). Any other options? Ill post a new video tomorrow for ya guys....thanks for all the help...I love you guys!

WannaSeeMyWankel

Ok...as promised, here's my current video of my f'ed up POS RX-7...01/04/06

I'm pretty sure the crank pulley can only go on one way, but is it possible it could be flipped 180* and make my timing off 180* as well? Thats the only thing i can think of...

WannaSeeMyWankel

forgot the url to the video...

http://videos.streetfire.net/player....E-353F1C0EF361

1SxyRXy

the crank pully only goes on one way. the cas on the other hand if you have taken that out you could have put that back in wrong. i watch your second video it just sounds really flooded its really close to starting. try giving it some gas when it starts to pop like blip the throttle and play with it, thats how mine started with a vac leak. so your car was just running fine and dandy and then all of the sudden it started doing this. was it after a hard drive short drive hard drive??

WannaSeeMyWankel

no drive yet...fresh rebuild

MARTIN

I believe that **** definately timing... What ecu are you using??

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

alright here is my two cents: timing still sounds just a few degrees too advanced, but hard to tell. when you reinstalled the cas are you 100% sure the it didnt move even 1 tooth as you engaged it with the gear? it is really easy to be one tooth off on it, i would try using some good grease (like you would use for tie rod ends or something) thats kind of stick to sorta hold it in place, plus it will dissolve in oil, put a little on the oring too so the the engagment with the front cover and oring isnt so abrupt. next you definately need a fuel pump cut off switch. needs to have a very high (15 + amp rating) and some heavy wiring (14-12 gauge). mount the switch somewhere accessible but not easily bumped ( i used one of those nitrous/jet fighter kind of switches with the kill switch cover rated @ 20amp, then ground the little mounting keyway off the switch cover because most are set up so that when the cover is over the switch the switch is off. this way you can mount the cover backwards making the switch on with the cover closed). then intersept the power wire to the fuel pump (i forget the color) run it up to your switch and back to the pump connector(drivers side strut tower 4 pin connector heavier gauge wires are power and grnd for pump, use voltmeter to confirm +, leave grnd alone). next pull the plugs and dry them or install new. use a torch or lighter and heat the ends, then with the plugs out, fuel pump off and cas disconctd roll the car over with gas pedal fully depressed until there is no longer foggy air coming out the plug holes and the smell of gas goes away. fully charge battery and/or hook up another car with jumper cables b/c you are going to need it. reinstall plugs, recon cas, and flip fuel pump switch to on, and try starting w/o touching the gas pedal at first, you may need to just barely crack it open but try w/o. the problem with just pulling the fuse for pump (eng egi) is it turns off trailing coils also, oem tach, and i beleive the ecm uses oem tach for inj signal. as long as you have your wierd wiring fixed everything should go according to plan. sorry for the long post i had a similiar problem with a no start condition after rebuild. after many long hours this is what worked for me and with the rebuild you will probably find the f/p switch aweful nice for the first bunch of miles. i have ~3k on mine and still have to use it every once in a great while(cold start, little movement in driveway and then turning it off). good luck

FC/DC

its a fresh rebuild? Have someone take out the EGI fuse as you are cranking it!! if timing is slightly off it will at least fireup. I have a switch for my fuel pump and can easly turn it off. But its getting to much fuel. Kill the fuel and when it catches plug the fuse back in

camman

to start a flooded car all you have to do is hold the throttle wide open untill it starts and revs smoothly. but make sure the plugs are clean and dry.

Tech_Greek

You hold the throttle and do a few consecutive 4-5 second cranks, then lift off the gas and turn it over.