skatingsamurai

so, hailers helped me out alot with getting my car started a couple weeks ago, and ever since then it hasnt been running right. the last thing that i decided to do was change the timing, and thats what changes...so i think its a timing problem. i got a timing light and checked it. when i have the light on the lead lines, i adjusted to TDC. or 5* ADV. but then i throw it on the trailing and the light would not even light up steady. it would stay off like every 5th or 6thish fire even though the others stayed on a steady pattern of light.

bump. this is very weird. here are the tests that i did and the results i got

WITH the timing light and the idle at 800

lead one - lights up rarely maybe a flash every once in a while, i cant tell if its on the mark becuase its not even lighting up.

lead two - a fast steady flashing light. and its right on the yellow mark

trailing one - NO light at all, so i cant tell if its on the mark at all...the timming light isnt flashing at all

trailing two - a steady but SLOW flashing light. NO marks on the pulley are visible.

one thing that i am SURE OF is that when its idling...i def. only here one rotor powering the engine. the idle gets higher as i rotate the yellow mark AWAY from me. (leaning?)

i tried restabing the cas with the alignment of all the bolt marks. if you draw a line between two bolts thats where the tdc is...well i tried all four sides and the same resulted with the opposite of stock tdc. and diddnt even start with the adjacent lines.

every time i restabbed the cas with the stock yellow mark i got the same result of having only the rear rotor working on idle. i restabbed like 5 times the right way.

i checked the ohm of the cas, leading and trailing coil. and these were the results.
cas- ne1-ne2 = 177
g1-g2 = 178

lead coil - .5 ohm
trailing - between t1 and t2 .3 ohm
between the two leads on each terminal = .8 ohm

so...what could be the problem??? why is the front rotor not even working during idle. when ever i give it gas it starts to work. then i will be driving down the road and give it half throttle, it smooths out ALOT.

when i rewired the afm harness a while back, i thought i did everything right, could i have gotten the ground wires wrong? is there anything in the ecu i check to see why the front rotor doesnt want to spark? why in the heck would the the timing light not even be working for the front lead and trailing leads??? this doesnt make sence??!

RotaMan99

Keep it to PMs you two please.

try moving the pickup for the gun closer to the coil or plug. If you still think there is an issue, remove the plug wire in question from the coil slowly, enough to hear a skip in the spark or far enough to see the spark. Make sure you hold the boot closer toward the wire so you don't get shocked.

a lot of times its just the pickup on the gun.

skatingsamurai

alright. anyways, i tried holding the pick up at all points on the wire. coil, plug, and middle. the front rotor ISNT fireing at all..i distinctly only hear the sound of ONE rotor. only when i rev it slowly does the front start firing and smoothen out.

RotaMan99

Leading should fire in rotor one if its firing in rotor two since the leading uses a wasted spark system. Remove one of the wires from the coils a little and slowly to watch for spark.

Make sure there are no fuel leaks at the primary injectors and that the spark plugs are in good condition and clean. Make sure the wires are good as well. I would say do a compression check but you say its an ignition issue.

skatingsamurai

the plugs have 200 miles on them. just replaced. just fixed fuel leak as well. nothing visible, or smellable.

will pull the cables in the morning.

what do you mean, a wasted system? all i know is that the front rotor was getting ANY light from the timing light. and it sounds like only half of engine is running on idle.

RotaMan99

Meaning both Leading spark plugs fire at the same time. The other spark that is not in the combustion chamber that is in the ignition cycle, is a wasted spark that doesn't do much of anything. I can't say it does nothing, maybe someone else can say it does absolutly nothing.

You can view the ignition cycle animation here

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If the timing gun that you are using is an induction style timing light,the timing light won't work unless it is in a "particular position",..you see they are "very Finicky" and have to be Set just so,or they Seem like do not Work!..They Will work!..Try having a Buddy hold the Lead that wraps around the High tension Spark plug while you Hold the gun,..Get the end with the Clamp as far down to the Plug..IT is Not Reading the wire,that is why you are getting Intermittent firing on the gun,..you may also want to try Changing Wires out..or as a last Measure Plugs.,you can also SEE if the plug is getting spark by taking the Plug lead off at the Coil.it will Arc from the coil to the wire,..But PLEASE Use a Pair of Insulated Pliers to do this,or you will look like Einstien!

skatingsamurai

yeah, i accually shocked myself in the nuts once, lol. will check later today

cynikal

here are my thoughgts the trailing coil is not even really needed its only there to reduce emissions i have known people to disconnect it and have no problems what so ever is your CAS good?..i know you tested resistance but did you take off the cover and see maybe there is a chipped tooth on the CAS that would cause it to act funny as well other than that i would check your wiring on everything usually if you have problems with the AFM the car wont start or if it does it willhave idle problems i would also def check the spark at the coil

RotaMan99

you will loose power without the trailing. Well, atleast I did. Lots of power.

skatingsamurai

okay, first off. i AM getting spark through all my cables. but when i hear that its idling really rough.(only rear rotor working). i pulled the number one lead plug wire, and there wasnt a change in idle. plug it back in, then i get the occasional smooth idle for a split second then it goes back to jumbly idle like its got the rabbit shakes.

after warm up, the only was to start the car is by having the yellow mark be about and inch and half (samish distance between yellow and red )counter clockwise ( AWAY) from the the staionary pin. so does that mean its at 20* delwayed timing?

i also notice that with the timing light on, the marks move progressivly away from the stationary pin, the harder i rev (it also becomes a smoother rev) and as i let off the throttle, the marks come back towards me and the pin. (but never hitting the yellow mark, just the spot where i had it.)

what i notice with leading 1, is that as i let off the gas, the marks will rotate back (clockwise) toward the pin, and just as it hits idle, the marks shoot back and away from the pin (counterclockwise) and out of sight

if i have the stationary pin closer to the yellow mark. the idle is much less (keep in mind its still probobly one on one rotor)

also, the only way to get the rotor number one timing light to become steady is to rev the car (i dont know if i already said this)

thanks for the input everyone
steve

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Search "Stabbing CAS"... this may help you. Not sure.

skatingsamurai

i put it up fs in the fs section. ill take any offer above 1k

RotaMan99

Sold yet?

I wonder if its low compression causing the front rotor to flood and foul the plugs or if the injector is bad or dirty.

When my engine did this it was the rear rotor but it was a leaky o-ring on the injector after installation of the fuel rail. Had the exact same symptoms. Would smooth out after reving it up and would idle on one rotor.

Have you done a resistance check on the wires to make sure they are good?

skatingsamurai

revive-

okay still nothing has been happening. home for thanksgiving and im going to take some parts back with me to school. im going to take a lead and trailing coil pack and a new tps....what do you think? someone said that the tps could be a coulpret becuase of the weird acceleration problem....but still doesnt account for the odd idle....i dont know.

but i'll hook a charger up to my battery and give her a nice charge and piggy back the ecu at those terminals....and tps.. and coils...and CAS.........going to go look at some old threads and see if i missed something

RotaMan99

Sounds like a fuel issue to me. Bad / Dirty Injector?

If the TPS reads between 4.5-5v at WOT, than its fine and its not the culprit. If you still think its the TPS, disconnect it and drive to see if the issue goes away.