Vandalized! No start!
#26
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Great, well I was stranded last night. I can't tow the thing until tomorrow...
I hopped in it after work and it just wouldn't start. I'm thinking its the main relay now but can't be sure until I get it to the garage. I can hear the relay click, however... but it could be other relays? I dunno. Noob question of the week: Where is the Main Relay?
I hopped in it after work and it just wouldn't start. I'm thinking its the main relay now but can't be sure until I get it to the garage. I can hear the relay click, however... but it could be other relays? I dunno. Noob question of the week: Where is the Main Relay?
#28
So it seems I don't have spark. My battery is getting too low to turn over the starter effectively so I will have to get that charged tomorrow, but I pulled a plug out and turned it over and could not see any spark while it was cranking. Checking the coils now...
#29
Ok, so if I did this right then I've got a bad leading coilpack....
Somebody check me because the picture of where to check for continuity in the FSM is really really bad. I checked resistance between the two pins at the connector for the coilpacks and the resistance was 1.6k ohms, FSM says it should be lower, under 1k....
Can somebody confirm that you are measuring resistance between the pins at the connector?
Somebody check me because the picture of where to check for continuity in the FSM is really really bad. I checked resistance between the two pins at the connector for the coilpacks and the resistance was 1.6k ohms, FSM says it should be lower, under 1k....
Can somebody confirm that you are measuring resistance between the pins at the connector?
#30
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The lack of spark "may" be a function of the low battery. Another thing, each fuse at the engine fuse box has a wire connected to it that is provided constant 24/7 voltage to it. You might want to test the voltage on each wire as you jostle or shake each fuse/fuse box and see if you can keep a constant flow of voltage on each wire. The wires to focus on would be the wires from the fuses which are necessary to actually run the car. In this case that would be the EGI INJ, EGI COMP and the Main fuse. EGI INJ fuse wire, which is Black/Green, runs to the Main Relay. The EGI COMP fuse runs to the Main Relay also and is White/Blue in color. The Main fuse has a Black wire connected to it and it drops downward below the fuse box to a connector which can be disconnected to check for constant voltage on this wire. Lastly, if you can get the car started you might want to jiggle the fuse box in addition to the relevant individual fuses and see if the car continues to run or not.
#31
Well it magically fixed itself.
I check all the connections off the main fuse block and everything that was supposed to have voltage had the proper voltage to it.
That black wire w/ the connector had proper voltage on it, and I couldn't find anything loose.
It's gotta be a loose connection somewhere, most likely at the engine fuse box, most likely pushed back in when I was back-probing to check for voltage but I couldn't find anything loose at all. I've got no real idea though. When I was checking for spark today with a charger / starter hooked up to the battery I could only get one spark, then nothing from leading or trailing plugs. After putting the plugs back in and hooking everything back up, I went to start it just for grins and it fired right up....
I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow just to be sure, but it is a very new rebuilt engine, broken in now for a few thousand miles and it shouldn't have any reason to flood if that is just what it was. I dunno.... maybe the primaries are dumping fuel and flooding it out randomly. Grrrrrrrr.
I check all the connections off the main fuse block and everything that was supposed to have voltage had the proper voltage to it.
That black wire w/ the connector had proper voltage on it, and I couldn't find anything loose.
It's gotta be a loose connection somewhere, most likely at the engine fuse box, most likely pushed back in when I was back-probing to check for voltage but I couldn't find anything loose at all. I've got no real idea though. When I was checking for spark today with a charger / starter hooked up to the battery I could only get one spark, then nothing from leading or trailing plugs. After putting the plugs back in and hooking everything back up, I went to start it just for grins and it fired right up....
I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow just to be sure, but it is a very new rebuilt engine, broken in now for a few thousand miles and it shouldn't have any reason to flood if that is just what it was. I dunno.... maybe the primaries are dumping fuel and flooding it out randomly. Grrrrrrrr.
#32
Found it!
Checked the connections to the Main relay again; pulled the connections apart after removing the melted plastic and this is what I found:
Cant believe I missed that...... must have burnt out when i was running the fan directly off the b/w wire to the 6-pin check connector. You live you learn, sooooo happy to have found this. Who's got another relay lying around?
Checked the connections to the Main relay again; pulled the connections apart after removing the melted plastic and this is what I found:
Cant believe I missed that...... must have burnt out when i was running the fan directly off the b/w wire to the 6-pin check connector. You live you learn, sooooo happy to have found this. Who's got another relay lying around?
#34
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EDIT: Also, what was the color of the wire that was damaged at the relay?
#38
Fuse was fine, voltage was at batt levels on the B/Y wire at the coils and the B/W wire at the check connector.
I'm stumped. I'm finally going to get it towed back to my garage tomorrow morning so I have some shade and more tools at hand. I'm suspicious of the coils and will try swapping another set on tomorrow, and I'm also wondering if the back of the fuse box where the "engine fuse" connects with the B/W wire isn't damaged and burnt out as well.
I'm stumped. I'm finally going to get it towed back to my garage tomorrow morning so I have some shade and more tools at hand. I'm suspicious of the coils and will try swapping another set on tomorrow, and I'm also wondering if the back of the fuse box where the "engine fuse" connects with the B/W wire isn't damaged and burnt out as well.
#40
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iTrader: (1)
If you were to question the Main Relay then you could just jumper the B/G to B/Y and W/L to B/W at the relay connector and bypass the relay altogether although the voltage at the coils and diagnostic connector as shown indicates it to be working effectively. The Engine fuse powers the alternator and Circuit Opening Relay as well so see if the B/W wire at the back of the alternator has voltage w/key to on and plug removed, and w/key to on at the Circuit Opening Relay located in the top row center pin position of the 6 wire connector. The alternator B/W wire does not need voltage to start and run per se, but the Circuit Opening Relay B/W wire does.
#41
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iTrader: (1)
If you were to question the Main Relay then you could just jumper the B/G to B/Y and W/L to B/W at the relay connector and bypass the relay altogether although the voltage at the coils and diagnostic connector as shown indicates it to be working effectively. The Engine fuse powers the alternator and Circuit Opening Relay as well so see if the B/W wire at the back of the alternator has voltage w/key to on and plug removed, and w/key to on at the Circuit Opening Relay located in the top row center pin position of the 6 wire connector. The alternator B/W wire does not need voltage to start and run per se, but the Circuit Opening Relay B/W wire does.
If the Boost Semsor were turned over to take a reading from the plug w/key to on and the Brown/White wire had about 5 volts to it, that would indicate that the ECU was being powered up and also sending out the proper Vref voltage to the appropriate sensors.
#42
Problems with the values at the ECU:
Key to "on"
"3J" should be at 12V, its below 2V
3J is a W/L wire, according to the wiring diagram it's coming from the EGI fuse on the main fuse block, correct? Fuse is good though.... I'm just guessing here.
EDIT: jsut saw the rest of your post above satch, ill check there as well real quick...
Key to "on"
"3J" should be at 12V, its below 2V
3J is a W/L wire, according to the wiring diagram it's coming from the EGI fuse on the main fuse block, correct? Fuse is good though.... I'm just guessing here.
EDIT: jsut saw the rest of your post above satch, ill check there as well real quick...
#44
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Problems with the values at the ECU:
Key to "on"
"3J" should be at 12V, its below 2V
3J is a W/L wire, according to the wiring diagram it's coming from the EGI fuse on the main fuse block, correct? Fuse is good though.... I'm just guessing here.
EDIT: jsut saw the rest of your post above satch, ill check there as well real quick...
Key to "on"
"3J" should be at 12V, its below 2V
3J is a W/L wire, according to the wiring diagram it's coming from the EGI fuse on the main fuse block, correct? Fuse is good though.... I'm just guessing here.
EDIT: jsut saw the rest of your post above satch, ill check there as well real quick...
Also, does the car turn over?
#45
The starter turns the motor over all day long, it just won't catch and start up. I need to refresh my wiring diagram skills, I thought the W/L wire from the EGI fuse was the same wire that goes to 3J....
Monday I'll check the ignition switch and the coils just from a hunch. I removed the factory security computer today to no avail either...
Monday I'll check the ignition switch and the coils just from a hunch. I removed the factory security computer today to no avail either...
#46
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iTrader: (1)
The 30 amp EGI COMP fuse has a short lengthed wire, White/Blue, that runs from the engine fuse box to the Main Relay and that is it. The W/L wire that runs from the Meter fuse to pin 3J is a separate and different wire powered by a different fuse having differing repsonsibilities.
#47
I see... I remember you mentioning that earlier now that it is re-iterated. I have a feeling I will have a much more intimate knowledge of the wiring in this thing once I get it fixed. Tomorrow I get some real time to throw at it. Thanks for the help so far satch.
#48
Fixed it...again. For the last time I hope, after finding out that burnt out connector anyway. The car flooded very badly and it wasn't until I again physically removed and checked the trailing plugs for spark did I notice it trying to fire up and a strong spray of fuel ejecting from the plug holes.
Test driving and everything seems a lot better. Idle is better, it doesn't cut out randomly while I'm driving, everything is acting like the coils, ECU and fuel pump are finally getting the power they have been missing from a badly connected main relay.
Thanks for the help again, satch, everybody.
Test driving and everything seems a lot better. Idle is better, it doesn't cut out randomly while I'm driving, everything is acting like the coils, ECU and fuel pump are finally getting the power they have been missing from a badly connected main relay.
Thanks for the help again, satch, everybody.
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