J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Okay, progress day two! I know that some of you have some questions about the setup, and you are right, its not going to be a conventional setup. Once the project goes along, I think that everyone will see what it is we are doing.

Radiator cap area blocked off:



Relocating the oil cooler lines:



The area where the water goes out the rad:



Oil lines are done:



My Buddy Club wheels...



Hard piping for the coolant:



The wastegate being installed on the manifold:

turbo-polak

keep up the good work

keeping the t2 hood with RE vents?

LeeTheSlacker

it looks like your just doing a vmount, only turned around the other way.

iceblue

mig my ***

SCCAIT7

Damn... Just DAMN! Just bought a TII to go into my Vert... I guess I have a long way to go!
Cant wait to see how it turns out...

Rude Question... Cost???

Omixeo

iTrader: (1)

Eleventybillion dollars.

fcdrifter13

More time effort and money normal people would spend on a 20yr old car.

Looks real good man, i willl be keeping an eye on this thread.

Wankel7

You gonna duct the WG back into the DP?

James

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Well given the amount of materiel, plus a new intercooler, turbo, manifold, and wastegate, I would guess the project is well into the 3k range by now.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Pffft! Hell no! Open wastegate baybee!!!!

And thanks all for the E-FAN suggestions!!! Keep em coming!

RyoFC3S

iTrader: (1)

J-Rat, for my VMIC setup I used 2x Permacool 10'' Reversible Fans off of Summitracing.com. Together they flow ~2500cfm, and are thermostatically controlled. I think it was ~$200 for both fans, the thermostat, a relay and everything else. They work wonderfully.

Fans. 2.5'' thick. Fit just right.

Thermostat Kit

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you ever thought about a fierro gt fan? they have a shroud that covers almost the hole radiator and that thing, except the center where the motor is, can't be over 2" deap. Good work so far! I didn't know you where the type to keep the p/s I had to keep mine to, it sux parking and getting out of parking spots without it.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Ya know I don't want to get into a whole "thing" here, but "best" is relative. You can't beat TIG for lack of cleanup work, but it takes 10x as long to prep and make TIG welds the it does to MIG. And you'll spend 10x more in materials to do so when you factor in the cost of operating the machine. In addition, TIG is a poor choice unless you are in a controlled environment as wind and environmental factors effect TIG much more easily then MIG and you then end up with a TIG weld that's worse then MIG.

With practice, it's easy to make some very nice looking MIG welds if you are using gas. Flux core tends to splatter a lot more and leaves the flux residue.

The last V-mount that I had a (small) part in was on a 1st gen. I believe the fans were a set of junkyard fans from a VW of some kind. Perhaps a Scirocco? The car didn't have any cooling problems but truthfully was not really driven hard.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I like those! I wont need a thermostat kit though, I am going to have the Haltech trigger the relay. Thanks!

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

hells yeah, i have my haltech controlling my relay for the fan.

what temps do you have set in the haltech for on/off ?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

175F

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

My fans dont come on until about 198-202. 175 seems a bit low to me.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Here is the one I would use, but you might want to check TitanuimTT setup (since you are already fabricating and welding )

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=48642

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I don't want the efan to start cooling once the coolant has reached 190F; I had it start on couple of F before the stock thermostat opens.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Nice.

So what happened the trust IC?

The Griffin

Now that is a laid down radiator,I think you are going to have a hard time getting enough airflow through it to be useful.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Its for sale, I just havent gotten around to posting it up. Ya interested?!?

Well, #1 its a K2RD rad, so its got ALOT more useful area then the Koyo. #2, once the ducting is in place I think you will see that it will work. However, untill its on the road and working, I think its fruitless to speculate.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Depends on how much and how soon you want to get rid of it.
I wouldn't have cash for at least a month.

iceblue

TIG does cost much more to operate in electricity and rods. With post feed you eliminate most tendency’s to aerate or get a bad weld. Prep work is relative as well, touché on best weld anything is relative. One of the major factors in TIG is the ability to operate a much superior and cleaner 100% penetration where as it is harder to carry 100% penetration on a mig. As far as out doors I do not know anyone with 60A 220 on an extension cord.

Flux is messy but the weld is much hotter and can be substitute for gas to weld large thickness steal. A nice tight weld un aerated is near impossible without gas. Note for new welders do not flux thin metal on your car, you will clean up the splatter for ever and warp everything to hell.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

If it's ducted properly, it doesn't matter which way it is facing, whether it is laying down, or where it is located. You could place the radiator in the back of the car or had it lying down flat under the car if you ducted it properly. Not very practical but it can be done successfully.