Use a Kevlar belt for the alt belt?
11-02-04, 05:37 PM
#1
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Use a Kevlar belt for the alt belt?
I was in a local hardware/farm supply store this week that will measure your drive belt(s) and match it as closely as they can. They offer two replacement types - good 'ol regular rubber and Kevlar.
It was explained to me that:
a) the rubber belt is unremarkable, and not intended for higher-revving engines. It's intended for things like lawnmowners.
b) the Kevlar belt will handle higher-revving engines, but it will not stretch. When it fails, it'll just break and that's the end of that.
The prospect of using an alt belt that will just up and snap without warning doesn't sound very good, but otoh if I can get a long life out of it (like 2 years,) I won't especially mind one day having to do a roadside belt change when it does go.
I've searched the forum, and Googled a bit and haven't found any comments at all on this other than:
from a boating newsgroup.
Penny for your thoughts?
It was explained to me that:
a) the rubber belt is unremarkable, and not intended for higher-revving engines. It's intended for things like lawnmowners.
b) the Kevlar belt will handle higher-revving engines, but it will not stretch. When it fails, it'll just break and that's the end of that.
The prospect of using an alt belt that will just up and snap without warning doesn't sound very good, but otoh if I can get a long life out of it (like 2 years,) I won't especially mind one day having to do a roadside belt change when it does go.
I've searched the forum, and Googled a bit and haven't found any comments at all on this other than:
They make one w/
Kevlar, but beware there is a minimum pulley size (something like 3 1/4
inch) because they wear out FAST if you go below that. Found out about the
minimum size after 2 belts wore out.
Kevlar, but beware there is a minimum pulley size (something like 3 1/4
inch) because they wear out FAST if you go below that. Found out about the
minimum size after 2 belts wore out.
Penny for your thoughts?
11-02-04, 06:46 PM
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Gates from dealership: about $10, but my car likes to eat them. 
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/gates-belts-share-your-pain-53674/
Goodyear and other AEM: $7- $10. I've heard bad things about the Gatorback in particular.
Importing a Bando: last time I did that the bill came out to $60. For one belt.
The regular rubber one from the store: $5
The Kevlar: $9
It's not the money. It's the reliability/lifespan. So I'm asking questions.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/gates-belts-share-your-pain-53674/
Goodyear and other AEM: $7- $10. I've heard bad things about the Gatorback in particular.
Importing a Bando: last time I did that the bill came out to $60. For one belt.
The regular rubber one from the store: $5
The Kevlar: $9
It's not the money. It's the reliability/lifespan. So I'm asking questions.
11-02-04, 06:49 PM
#6
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
I say look at the experiance that these boaters have had with it. If you like the risk (possibility of breakage as opposed to rubber, better or worse) as compared to stock, then go for whatever you gut instinct is.
NOW WHERE'S MY DAMN PENNIE!!!!!
NOW WHERE'S MY DAMN PENNIE!!!!!
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11-02-04, 09:21 PM
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Kevlar baby They are all the rage for newer cars like the Evo (GReddy kevlar timing belts). Longevity is the only advantage - how much longer is debatable.
They are all the rage for newer cars like the Evo (GReddy kevlar timing belts). Longevity is the only advantage - how much longer is debatable.
11-02-04, 09:25 PM
#9
...94% correct.
ANyone ever use a chain? Or a timing belt? I want to do that now...
I would say go with the Kevlar one...buy a kevlar one and a rubber on to toss in the bin for an emergency belt. Let us know how they work/fit/last.
I would say go with the Kevlar one...buy a kevlar one and a rubber on to toss in the bin for an emergency belt. Let us know how they work/fit/last.
11-02-04, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jon88se
Kevlar baby They are all the rage for newer cars like the Evo (GReddy kevlar timing belts). Longevity is the only advantage - how much longer is debatable.
They are all the rage for newer cars like the Evo (GReddy kevlar timing belts). Longevity is the only advantage - how much longer is debatable.
11-02-04, 11:04 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Kenteth
piston engine suxor when the timing belt breaks
FWIW, my friends and I all run Gatorbacks on our GTP/Regal GSs for our superchargers (5-10 of us). No problems in somewhere around a collective 100K miles. These are high stress situations; imperfect pulley alignments and turning roots superchargers to 15-18K RPM.
11-03-04, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
ANyone ever use a chain? Or a timing belt? I want to do that now...
I would say go with the Kevlar one...buy a kevlar one and a rubber on to toss in the bin for an emergency belt. Let us know how they work/fit/last.
I would say go with the Kevlar one...buy a kevlar one and a rubber on to toss in the bin for an emergency belt. Let us know how they work/fit/last.
11-06-04, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Falcoms
I say look at the experiance that these boaters have had with it.
I figure I'll give it a go. Look for my next post here, from a roadside at midnight in a snowstorm.
NOW WHERE'S MY DAMN PENNIE!!!!!
Pennie? In the oven.
Penny? It's become your fine and is in the Bad Spelling Jar (beside bigmack000's college fund.)
11-06-04, 10:30 AM
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I quickly skimmed the other, and I had not seen this mentioned.
If you are breaking belts constantly, then there is some other problem. I spent years building go-karts and such, so I know what kills belts. By far, over tensioning is the worst. You should have a half inch of deflection at the longest part of the belt. It should not take extreme effort to get this deflection (1 finger should be enough). Your pulleys need to be clean and free of rust and paint. Also important is alignment. If you are more then a few MM off, friction will build heat up VERY quickly and you'll snap the belt. If the spacer on the alternator is installed wrong, you can get misalignment (though this takes effort).
If you are breaking belts constantly, then there is some other problem. I spent years building go-karts and such, so I know what kills belts.
By far, over tensioning is the worst. You should have a half inch of deflection at the longest part of the belt. It should not take extreme effort to get this deflection (1 finger should be enough). Your pulleys need to be clean and free of rust and paint. Also important is alignment. If you are more then a few MM off, friction will build heat up VERY quickly and you'll snap the belt. If the spacer on the alternator is installed wrong, you can get misalignment (though this takes effort).
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