The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Ok heres the story.

I have been having idle problems sinse I got the car months ago. Recently they have been getting better, as the idle has evened out and stoped pulsing.
However my turbo has been going out for some time, it has over 110k on it, burned oil reving out of gear, and was making a odd sound. So I found a low miliage good coniditon turbo and swaped it in this weekend. I also did an oil change and flushed the coolant system. Upto this point the car had been running ok, with only a slight hesitiation when I had boost spikes. Even the idle was getting better.

After swaping turbos this weekend I have been having bad idle issues, hesitation, lack of power, back firing, running extremly rich, smell of fuel, sound of a V8 under the hood. I also was hearing a tap-tap-tap in the rear rotor, which went away.

Now I was driving my car to take my bro to college and I heard a ping-ping, no idea why, wasent in boost, but ever since I have been loosing power. Today was absolutly horrible. No power, when I step on it, the whole car boggs down and only evens out when I hit boost.
Its odd- I can get upto speed, stay in boost at 5.5psi all the way to 100, it runs perfect, no hesitiaton, nothing.

Now the only thing I did today was adjust the timing. I noticed it was 2 degrees advanced, so I backed it to normal and called it good. This is when it got worse.
I am wondering if my timing is way off? I put a compression tester on it today and got 70-70-70 70-70-70 on a pretty nice tester. Ive used it when I got the car and had the same numbers- I have also used it 2-3 times on rotarys and I have gotten these same readings and they were strong runners that tested 100 on a good tester, so I need a better way to get it tested. I also did the by ear, and could hear great compression on all faces of both rotors. I thought I blew a seal earlier, but its just odd. I noticed my leading spark plugs were covered in 3/16th of carbon buildup it took a flat blade razor to remove! Its like it was still catching the exhaust stroke. The trailing dint have the same buildup, but they were still pretty bad. These plugs are less then 3k old.

My plan is to check the timing tommorow, re adjust it, pull and check the injectors, clean the TB plates, and see if I can get a good compression test done.
Any other ideas? I am at a loss, I have to have this car for college.

DerangedHermit

Vacuum leak?

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I just realized that I ran the car low on fuel the other day. I will pull the pump, replace the inline filter, and blow the lines out while I am at it.

As for it being a vacume leak, I will check, but I have replaced every vacume line, every gasket, injector seals, and RTV'd the TB joints.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

bump

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

My timing was WAY the hell off. Through a light on it and a good compression test showed a concensus of 100 -100 per rotor even. I still cant get the timing right. Im down from 20 degrees retarded to only 10. Car runs and drives fine, except I max out at 6.5k, but im hoping a tech is going to swing by and give me some advice.

So dont jump to conclusions. Despite the detination or the fact it showed all the signs of a dead motor..... Timing apparently can do all this.

More on the timing, I have a pulsing idle, so I through the light on it when it was pulsing, and I was getting 10 retarded, then 20 retarded with each pulse. I have pulled, replunged the CAS twice, and if I am even a hair off from how I have it now, its 20-30 degrees retarded.
Do I have a bad cas? What the heck could cause this, or am I within reasonable spec?

ilike2eatricers

I had to pull and restab my CAS about 20 times to where the thread for the retaining nut was in the center so I would have more room for adjustment if I needed to in the future. Maybe I dindt word that right but let me know if you need me to explain it again. Are you setting the timing on the first pulley mark (on the right)?

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I am following hitmans guide for setting timing. Ive used it before, and yes that makes since. I am using the yellow first mark on the pully.

ilike2eatricers

Was the engine rebuilt? I remember reading a thread about timing with a post by Hailers I believe about how something was installed backwards and never allowed for exact timing to be set. I'm just going by memory but do a search and I'm sure you'll find it. There is also a thread by Wayne88N/A about bad CAS's which I havent read.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Engine has the origonal 72k on it, never opened up, never touched except Turbos swaped and coolant line fixed. Ive read the bac cas thread.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I have had a timing problem before, where I was having problems getting into boost, bad fuel miliage- Well I am going to go re stab the cas a tooth advanced to see if that fixes my retard problem. Toss a light on there and check.

I had it all set yesterday, took it for a spirited drive around the backroads, held 5psi perfect and pulled 90% of its power. Well I start it 2 hours later, bad idle is back, boggs during normal (no boost) driving- and only runs good while in constant boost.

ilike2eatricers

Loose retaining nut? Sorry I had to ask. Are all the gears undamaged? It isnt possible for the timing to adjust itself really so your problem is strange.