rico05

Ok, here is the dilly yo. I got the car to hold idle for abour 30 minutes today. Nice and strong, but the revvs don't bounce it just shakes like crazy. I can revv it all the way to 9k w/o any hitch. But it shakes, and the exhaust is black. Runnin rich. It starts like it is flooded. I have to leave the fuel cut switch in "off" until I get the car to crank a bit, and run, then I turn it on, and it idles. The engine shakes REALLY bad, but it idles perfect. I can hear the THUMP of apex seals as I revv it, and there is no gap or skip. It just feels like it is runnin flooded. Any idea what to check? If it revvs fine, idles fine, and runs, can it be blown? Or are my primaries just goofed? Also, if I pass 4k RPM (after the secondaries kick in) the engine no longer shakes. I tried to reset the ECU, but no change. The a/f gauge I have reads normal, but it was a $50 gauge, so I really don't trust it. It just feels way rich....Tomorrow, compression test.

rico05

Any ideas? I don't wanna pull my manifold and send off my primaries if I don't have to.

RETed

Do the compression test first - we'll be wasting our time trying to troubleshoot this until we can verify the engine is still good.&nbsp I've chased cranking/starting/idling problems for SonicRat, and it turned out to be a bad engine.



-Ted

jimmyv13

At least you got it to idle, Rico. If the primaries and secondaries are the same like they are in S4 NA's( all 460 cc), pop off the manifold and swap the injectors. See what happens.......

rico05

I'll see if I can get Napa to loan me a compression tester. If not, I can't afford to buy one, so I will need to find one I can borrow. That happens tomorrow though.

Scracho

Thats exactly what my car does. I still have good compression and I've replaced some of the main stuff already. I'm going to try the Leading Coil or the Secondaries next.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Damnit rico, talk to me! What did you break!?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

ReTed: Hey, even with the engine fixed i still have those problems But, I guess, I have even less than I did before.

Rico: check your mounts if your engine is hopping around, and by god get on AIM!

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

I'm still guessing its your injecoters for the second time. CJ

banzaitoyota

BASICS!!!BASICS!!!!!BASICS!!!!!!
Don't go around randomly swapping parts in HOPE of finding the problem.
Do what RETED SEZ:
Compression Test first.
From now on my advice for all rotary owners is to buy a compression gage as their FIRST mod.

peacekeeper

What kind of compression guage should we buy? There are digi ones that put out different looking numbers and there are the ones that have the clock arm looking things that put out only whole numbers. Witch should I get?
Charles

rico05

Ok, ok tomorrow. I got WAY too drunk last night, and have had a killer hang over all day. Comp test tomorrow. I really do want my baby to be ok. I love her too much to let her go.

hypntyz7

Just get a regular autozone analog compression tester with a needle...it is $24.99. IF you cannot spare that you do not need to be driving an rx-7.

knight1976

Well i am going to Autozone to get one for myself but i hear that you are supposed to do some "modification" to the compression tester. If so someone hooka brotha up with the info.

dre_2ooo

OMG hypntyz7!

I have never really liked aftermarket wheels on cars.. but yours look GREAT on that car. Very tasteful

hypntyz7

Thanks man, Im rollin 18" gunmetal ace spades with yoko parada tires. I love them so far. I didnt want to go silver or chrome because that's all played, and I dont relaly lik eblack on black, so gunmetal was my choice, and though its not really flashy, it is eye catching and I believe to be good taste. Thanks.

You dont need to, really. There is a check valve in the side of them. I just hold it open while Im checking for even bounces which represent each apex seal. Then, once I am satisfied that Im getting 3 even repetitive bounces signifying 3 healthy apex seals, I let the valve out and observe the overall chamber's health, represented by a single number., such as 100psi. 90 psi and below is dying soon, 100-90 is average, 1-2 yr. left, and 110+ is very strong, like new. 125psi is a new engine IIRC.

When observing the valve open for bounces, expect to see bnounces to 30-40psi...you wont get an accurate number, but the numbers relative to each other are ccurate. For instance, if you get 2 bounces to 30psi and one to 5, you know that one side of the rotor is not making compression.Those 2 good sides are making more than 30psi, so that 30 psi number is not accurate in terms of value, but relative to the other face it tells you there is a problem.

knight1976

Thanks hypntyz i appreciate the hook up on info. You wouldnt happen to have changed out a windsheild on a rx7 would you? Or know where i can find some pretty detailed info on how to do it? Let me know I am supposed to help a buddy this weekend.

hypntyz7

LOL have fun with that windshield. I part out lots of rx7s and I have never been successful pulling an windshield off of one. They are put on HELLA tight with some thick *** super strong glue. Ive pulled windshields on other cars before without half the problems of an FC. Another thing is the glass is about half as thick as many other vahicles Ive worked with so they crack easy as well.