lol yes it works but lets face it its a pain in the ***.

 

That's the thing your idea is fine but the carbon building isses are still gonna plague your vehicle. It's not expensive to keep the engine carbon free. Since 1991, I've owned an 81 12A, 84 12A, still have my 91 vert and my 94 Fd. Over the yrs I learned how these things really start to have flooding issues. Granny driving was my number one problem on all my rotary's. I learned about the water steam cleaning method on this forum yrs ago and started going it on my fd religiously. Maintenance as follows:

2quarts of water per rotor every 6 months
new plugs once a year
new fuel filter once a year
I also no longer blip the throttle at 1st start and let it stay at 3k till the ecu idles down.
That's it.

I never treated my Fc that way but my fd never not once has ever flooded while doing this kind of maintenace. Keep in mind my engine had over 108,000 original miles before I over boosted it and blew. One time I actually tried to intensionally flood the engine in 30degree weather just to see if all my preventative maintenance was actually worth it. The fd sat up for 4 months without being started during winter. I went out started the car and let the AWS do it's thing. Then I shut it off. Waited 30seconds if fired right back up. Shut it off again let it sit and it fired right back up. I did this 4 times and it fired up everything single time without hesitation. A lot of other rotarys would have seriously flooded under these circumstances. Not mine! When the engine blew, the front rotor still had enough compression to allow me to start the engine and drive it 10 miles to my shop. Now that's results!


Last thing I don't know about the S4's but you guys may wanna consider actually allowing the AWS system to do it's thing at 1st start up. Now I know it's main purpose is to accelerate the warm-up of the converters but what I come to find out over all these years is that this system actually serves another unrealized benefit. You see the ecu always dumps in extra fuel during cold starts. If you blip the throttle to lower the idle, your actually not helping the cold engine because your now leaving all that extra fuel on the rotor face and seal groove areas to furthure carbonize later on. The initial higher rpm idle will allow the engine to FULLY burn that excessive fuel during a cold start. This leaves even less carbon deposits later on. The AWS only last between 15-25secs. Everyone wants to assume that that system is bad on the bearings. I can assure you it's not as my bearings on my engine were in perfect condition when I opened it up.


Now that's my experience so I hope is helps someone.

 

There are 2 other ways that I know.

1. Put a switch on the ignition switch to ecu wire, so the ecu will not open the injectors while cranking the engine. I did it on my TII.

2. Just Remove the starter solenoid wire, add a switch with continuous 12V in your car, and wire it to the starter solenoid.