Ugh...I'm in over my head
#26
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its too bad you're not near San antonio, I'd trade ya for my N/A.
I wouldnt call it a POS. she just needs some TLC. Sure the previous owner did a half assed job of the engine swap, but she's in your hands now! The fix to your not starting issue is in this forum somewhere (I would start with that negative terminal/wire). no one was born a mechanic, we were all forced into turning wrenches for ourselves when we bought second gens! I personally I think you own the coolest learning car ever, you got a hell of a deal, and think your car has a lot of potential. open a chiltons and give her hell! spending an entire months salary to bust knuckles under the hood only makes you love the car more.
I wouldnt call it a POS. she just needs some TLC. Sure the previous owner did a half assed job of the engine swap, but she's in your hands now! The fix to your not starting issue is in this forum somewhere (I would start with that negative terminal/wire). no one was born a mechanic, we were all forced into turning wrenches for ourselves when we bought second gens! I personally I think you own the coolest learning car ever, you got a hell of a deal, and think your car has a lot of potential. open a chiltons and give her hell! spending an entire months salary to bust knuckles under the hood only makes you love the car more.
#28
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Had to work today, pics up tomorrow. Then taking her to get her coolant changed, and possible alignment if it can be done.
Finally got her started apparently the new battery had died... I believe I was told by a mechanic I had the wrong alternator?
Anyway when she started up theres a whitish blue smoke coming from the exhaust and like I said it will turn dark gray under boost. Also when I got her started I heard this: "Beep---Beep-Beep--Beep-Beep" and repeated. I looked at the FAQ and saw that this could mean my steering wheel is on wrong, I just didn't know why there was a pause between the first and the final four.
Also the thermostat or the cable is bad. I've looked on ebay for a new cable but nothing. I am about to order a new speedo cable for it because that's missing too.
And to those that wanted me to bolt up the fuse box, it's impossible b/c theres a wire stretching towards the intercooler and it won't allow me to reach the screw, or anything to secure it.
Finally got her started apparently the new battery had died... I believe I was told by a mechanic I had the wrong alternator?
Anyway when she started up theres a whitish blue smoke coming from the exhaust and like I said it will turn dark gray under boost. Also when I got her started I heard this: "Beep---Beep-Beep--Beep-Beep" and repeated. I looked at the FAQ and saw that this could mean my steering wheel is on wrong, I just didn't know why there was a pause between the first and the final four.
Also the thermostat or the cable is bad. I've looked on ebay for a new cable but nothing. I am about to order a new speedo cable for it because that's missing too.
And to those that wanted me to bolt up the fuse box, it's impossible b/c theres a wire stretching towards the intercooler and it won't allow me to reach the screw, or anything to secure it.
#29
Where in Georgia are you at? I'm up north around Gainesville/ Forsyth. I'd be glad to help you out with it if you're local enough. I'm only 17, but I've done a good bit of work on my S4 n/a. And I've got a few buddies all around GA who are into rotaries. PM me if you want
#31
Had to work today, pics up tomorrow. Then taking her to get her coolant changed, and possible alignment if it can be done.
Finally got her started apparently the new battery had died... I believe I was told by a mechanic I had the wrong alternator?
Anyway when she started up theres a whitish blue smoke coming from the exhaust and like I said it will turn dark gray under boost. Also when I got her started I heard this: "Beep---Beep-Beep--Beep-Beep" and repeated. I looked at the FAQ and saw that this could mean my steering wheel is on wrong, I just didn't know why there was a pause between the first and the final four.
Also the thermostat or the cable is bad. I've looked on ebay for a new cable but nothing. I am about to order a new speedo cable for it because that's missing too.
And to those that wanted me to bolt up the fuse box, it's impossible b/c theres a wire stretching towards the intercooler and it won't allow me to reach the screw, or anything to secure it.
Finally got her started apparently the new battery had died... I believe I was told by a mechanic I had the wrong alternator?
Anyway when she started up theres a whitish blue smoke coming from the exhaust and like I said it will turn dark gray under boost. Also when I got her started I heard this: "Beep---Beep-Beep--Beep-Beep" and repeated. I looked at the FAQ and saw that this could mean my steering wheel is on wrong, I just didn't know why there was a pause between the first and the final four.
Also the thermostat or the cable is bad. I've looked on ebay for a new cable but nothing. I am about to order a new speedo cable for it because that's missing too.
And to those that wanted me to bolt up the fuse box, it's impossible b/c theres a wire stretching towards the intercooler and it won't allow me to reach the screw, or anything to secure it.
IF you have a place to change the coolant its as easy as pooring water in a glass. Do yourself a favor and learn how to do this.
Bolt up the fuse box by extending the wires. All you need are wire clamps and a small tool to crimp the wires. Go to your local cheap tool store and buy this stuff. Even if you have to buy a small bucket to drain your coolant or anything it will be cheaper in the long run. Go buy some jackstands/Tools and learn your vehicle.
#32
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dont know about the beeping (sorry) but it could just be the "fasten seat belt" reminder ?
smoking: hey my car did it too for a long time. its no big deal. your oil seals are probably old and worn. these baby's are designed to inject oil into the chamber and a little extra oil in the mix isnt going to hurt a thing. might even be better for it (more lube). one things for sure though, you wont have to pre-mix
coolant change... hey man, start your education here! its not hard and only takes about 15 minutes with basic hand tools! costs less than $20. buy two jugs of antifreeze (anything alluminum safe) and have an empty gallon jug for water. the filler cap (using the first picture you posted in this thread) is just to the right of those orange painted pulleys. the radiator drain plug is underneath the radiator and should be hard plastic. it will take a #3 phillips (or large phillips) screwdriver to get the drain plug off. and the coolant just pours out!
mix the new coolant in an empty gallon water jug: 2/3 antifreeze and 1/3 water (its not an exact science)
pour the coolant in the filler cap (not the clear plastic overflow tank) until you're full and you're all set to go! check the coolant level after a bit of driving and top off as necessary.
ps: not sure on the turbo's but on my N/A there is a relief screw that I remove to fill the coolant (it lets the air out). someone here knows for sure. and dont worry about running her right now, if she isnt overheating then the coolant is fine (IMHO)
smoking: hey my car did it too for a long time. its no big deal. your oil seals are probably old and worn. these baby's are designed to inject oil into the chamber and a little extra oil in the mix isnt going to hurt a thing. might even be better for it (more lube). one things for sure though, you wont have to pre-mix
coolant change... hey man, start your education here! its not hard and only takes about 15 minutes with basic hand tools! costs less than $20. buy two jugs of antifreeze (anything alluminum safe) and have an empty gallon jug for water. the filler cap (using the first picture you posted in this thread) is just to the right of those orange painted pulleys. the radiator drain plug is underneath the radiator and should be hard plastic. it will take a #3 phillips (or large phillips) screwdriver to get the drain plug off. and the coolant just pours out!
mix the new coolant in an empty gallon water jug: 2/3 antifreeze and 1/3 water (its not an exact science)
pour the coolant in the filler cap (not the clear plastic overflow tank) until you're full and you're all set to go! check the coolant level after a bit of driving and top off as necessary.
ps: not sure on the turbo's but on my N/A there is a relief screw that I remove to fill the coolant (it lets the air out). someone here knows for sure. and dont worry about running her right now, if she isnt overheating then the coolant is fine (IMHO)
#33
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is there really a wire that runs to the thermostat on turbo's? that doesnt sound right to me.
my N/A thermostat is a $5 item from the dealership (only use mazda thermostats or else...) and again only takes 2 seconds to install.
my N/A thermostat is a $5 item from the dealership (only use mazda thermostats or else...) and again only takes 2 seconds to install.
#34
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I mean I'm not sure if it's a wire or what but on my Gauge Cluster it doesn't work...
I'm headed to the store tomorrow for some jack stands, and a bucket, and a gallon of water to drain my coolant I suppose.
I'm headed to the store tomorrow for some jack stands, and a bucket, and a gallon of water to drain my coolant I suppose.
#35
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And yes, if you have to pay someone to empty and fill your coolant for you, you're better off just selling the car. Gotta start somewhere--and this looks like a good place.
#36
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Now this thermostat thing is bugging me. Knowing how hot your rotary is is important, or at least from what i've gathered.
How do I go about fixing this?
How do I go about fixing this?
#37
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On a side-note; how do you know there's no speedo cable? Have you looked? They are known to loosen over time and come undone from the transmission.
#38
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Yea I was told it wasn't there. And by "Thermostat thing" I was meaning problem, not calling a part a "thing". Anyway yes the temperature meter in my car (Hot, Cold) does not work. I am unsure of as to why.
Today when I get home I am going to physically get under the car, check and see if it has lsd, change the coolant (does the car have to be running for this?), take pictures of the odd device that makes my car run rich but when connected car has trouble holding idle, and I'm going to physically get under it and check out for myself if the speedo cable isn't there.
Today when I get home I am going to physically get under the car, check and see if it has lsd, change the coolant (does the car have to be running for this?), take pictures of the odd device that makes my car run rich but when connected car has trouble holding idle, and I'm going to physically get under it and check out for myself if the speedo cable isn't there.
#39
When your at the store purchase a haynes manual. IF you have extra money you can buy a FSM (factory service manual). You might be able to find one online. But I suggest just having the book to refrence to. This should be step one.
#40
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Hey, look I don't want to be a jerk, but your knowledge of cars is just way too limited to get this car going. There is just too many things to be fixed. You need to sell this thing to a rotary knowledgeable person. Just take your loss and move on. Find yourself a DD that you can learn general maintenance on, and still be able to drive it every day. It is going to take you a long time to get your RX running.
No offense, just some advice.
No offense, just some advice.
#42
I'd be interested . I saw that you said you were in Woodstock in that PM. I'm probably free this weekend, but from Forsyth to Woodstock's about an hours drive (~40 miles), and my license is restricted because my new tires taunted me. So I can't say I'll help you out because I might not be able to drive that far, but if I can find a way to, I'd be glad to give a fellow rotor-head a hand and try to convince you to keep it. I'll PM you my number and maybe you can give me a call tomorrow after 4 or something.
#45
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Wow, did they just whip out a paint brush and start the car to paint those pullies? With all the thought and hard work they put into this car I would say its a definate possibility....
#47
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