Turboing and NA?
#1
Turboing and NA?
Hi Guys and Gals,
Please no bashing im just learing!
Im new to the rotary vehicles but I bought a 87 FC with less than 90K miles however its been sitting for about 12 years. I bought the car to set it up for drift and scca events. Fully gutted caged etc. all that's the easy part. I was just wondering if you could point me in the direction I should take in building my engine to support a turbo seeing that mine is NA. I would like to bridge port my set up unless you think differently. I did do research and spoke with a few people and most are saying I could turbo the NA motor but max boost run 10 lbs. That sounded good to me but everyone seys 10 lbs on the engine would get boring quick and anything more would just cause a kaboom. I hope to get some constructive help here and if Im not seeing a post or stickey that is exactly the info im asking for feel free to point me in that direction.
Thanks,
Lownclean
Please no bashing im just learing!
Im new to the rotary vehicles but I bought a 87 FC with less than 90K miles however its been sitting for about 12 years. I bought the car to set it up for drift and scca events. Fully gutted caged etc. all that's the easy part. I was just wondering if you could point me in the direction I should take in building my engine to support a turbo seeing that mine is NA. I would like to bridge port my set up unless you think differently. I did do research and spoke with a few people and most are saying I could turbo the NA motor but max boost run 10 lbs. That sounded good to me but everyone seys 10 lbs on the engine would get boring quick and anything more would just cause a kaboom. I hope to get some constructive help here and if Im not seeing a post or stickey that is exactly the info im asking for feel free to point me in that direction.
Thanks,
Lownclean
#2
i suggest reading more, this can easily turn into a novel with everyone's personal opinions and bashing on you.
you can't run 10 psi on the stock fuel system with high comp rotors anyways, even if you switch everything over to the turbo fuel system parts.
you will also need a standalone and much larger turbo for a bridge port, so unless you have a fat wallet then that should be one of your last steps.
you can't run 10 psi on the stock fuel system with high comp rotors anyways, even if you switch everything over to the turbo fuel system parts.
you will also need a standalone and much larger turbo for a bridge port, so unless you have a fat wallet then that should be one of your last steps.
#4
Im going to be running a fuel cell,stand along and I have a Garrett GT3076R waiting for this project.
As for the archives I found this: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm
As for the archives I found this: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm
#7
Look into water/meth/alk injection.... Not many people seem to give a **** about that doing precarious forced induction setups. A turbo rotary is one of those "omg really?!" things as it is. Toss in higher cr and it's "you're mad".
Consider aux injection as a protective investment. You can still run pump gas and have cooler intake charge, egt's and bump some power without so much as touching the boost controller, timing or fuel trims but you can run more agressive timing and/or more boost with aux injection.
Good luck with your build and if it isn't fun, it's not worth your time. THink of the fun, **** all that other bullshit.
Consider aux injection as a protective investment. You can still run pump gas and have cooler intake charge, egt's and bump some power without so much as touching the boost controller, timing or fuel trims but you can run more agressive timing and/or more boost with aux injection.
Good luck with your build and if it isn't fun, it's not worth your time. THink of the fun, **** all that other bullshit.
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#11
because microtech is rather ancient, i won't be pushing people to buy and install them anymore regardless of how easy they are to install and tune. they need to get with today's technology and add more features as standard. all said and done it costs twice as much to buy a microtech and set it up to do the same features that the rest do for half the price.
#12
i know they really do suck. lol. thats what my tuner used and recommended to me 6yrs ago so i bought it. now that im going to be tuning it myself due to my tuner no longer being in buisness i needed some help and everyone that was a big wig with micro's has pretty much turned their heads against them. i'd much rather switch to a newer haltech or something a but up to times but money is tight these days so i have to make do with the lt for the time being.
#13
well tuning a high comp. n/a turbo'd engine isn't so different from the turbo engines, you just have to be a bit more careful with the timing and start with more conservative timing figures. tuning the fuel maps is identical to tuning the turbo engines. some people may argue but you should always tune conservatively unless you are a tuner anyways so the difference is negligable.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-12-10 at 12:57 PM.
#14
what would you say would be a good conservative amount of timing to pull per lb of boost right now im runing 11* at 14psi and going down a *per lb linearly
the setup i have is as follows
13b-re
9.4:1 rotors
large streetport
t67 with a e cover and a .81 turbine housing
lt10s
800/1600
3bar fp
3.5" exhaust
ls2 coils
fmic
hks cast manifold.
thanks for the help man!!
the setup i have is as follows
13b-re
9.4:1 rotors
large streetport
t67 with a e cover and a .81 turbine housing
lt10s
800/1600
3bar fp
3.5" exhaust
ls2 coils
fmic
hks cast manifold.
thanks for the help man!!
#15
i would probably pull it down a little more to be safe, to about 8* at 14psi after that 1* per psi, pull down the figures before that down 3* from the 7psi-14psi range.
with the .81 turbine it will be choked up a little so it's best to be a little more conservative and then tune it out on the dyno to where the EGTs are cool and you get your peak torque curve after advancing it from there.
usually motors pop in the peak torque range which is 5k-5.5k RPMs this is where your timing and AFRs really count the most.
i know that is a very conservative timing map but with a larger turbo on high compression rotors you have to take it easy on it until you can get a way to determine how much to advance it from there. i would also suggest AI if you haven't thought of it yet to help keep detonation under control with the high CR rotors if you're running pump fuel.
with the .81 turbine it will be choked up a little so it's best to be a little more conservative and then tune it out on the dyno to where the EGTs are cool and you get your peak torque curve after advancing it from there.
usually motors pop in the peak torque range which is 5k-5.5k RPMs this is where your timing and AFRs really count the most.
i know that is a very conservative timing map but with a larger turbo on high compression rotors you have to take it easy on it until you can get a way to determine how much to advance it from there. i would also suggest AI if you haven't thought of it yet to help keep detonation under control with the high CR rotors if you're running pump fuel.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-12-10 at 01:26 PM.
#16
thanks. the car is only going to see 14psi, so im not really concerned with much after that. as for the AI i have thought about it but for what i wanna do i feel that with a decent conservative map i should be alright. the car will mainly be used for weekends and auto-x. Im not going for a all out powerful car. it'll prob make around 350 an im perfectly fine with that.
#17
Thanks for the info and options thus far but I'm looking for info on what to do to my engine. What's should I rebuild the internals with? What port should I do? And what throttle body and I take could I run? I will be building my own turbo manifold and IC piping. Any help would help.
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