Turbo Vert Options/Opinions
#77
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its very complicated when swapping series to series in either situation JDM or US almost none of the plugs are going to match up between the wiring harness, the chassis harness, the ECU and engine harness. Its best to stick with a plug and play swap same series, or change EVERYTHING over, so if you had a full donor car…you could make the whole thing easy if you insisted on going S4 to S5 by switching ALL the wiring over, which leaves you stuck using a US S5 engine. I admittedly did not do all the wiring myself…I was WAY over my head…the trouble shooting and wiring on my car cost over 1K by itself.
#78
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there were many points being made, the topic drifted from one subject to another, seems like one person is just keeping on about the same subject and cant get past it, so once again I will address that issue and say I just dont believe the 16lb difference. And I say that not because I am a keyboard engineer, but because I have owned and own both versions of the cars.
the part where someone noted the weights of a factory turbo vert and a factory turbo coupe being "For the S4 the difference is 60kg (132lb) and for the S5 it's 80kg (176lb)" is not having any attention being paid to it here. Those are mazda specs as well.
I have owned my fair share of coupes, and my fair share of convertibles, owning my convertible since 1994-1995, I think I have a feel for my car by now and a good feel for FCs of all varieties. I dont have anything in either car that would add or delete any weight, full interiors, AC, etc.
the part where someone noted the weights of a factory turbo vert and a factory turbo coupe being "For the S4 the difference is 60kg (132lb) and for the S5 it's 80kg (176lb)" is not having any attention being paid to it here. Those are mazda specs as well.
I have owned my fair share of coupes, and my fair share of convertibles, owning my convertible since 1994-1995, I think I have a feel for my car by now and a good feel for FCs of all varieties. I dont have anything in either car that would add or delete any weight, full interiors, AC, etc.
Whether or not you’re deleting 16 pounds from a vert or 100 or so, I don’t believe the car is a **** car and you do…well leave it at that. I have also owned both series and my vert feels lighter then my GTU’s, in fact I know it is, based on the giant pile of unnecessary **** it took two guys to pick up and move when I was done. All the things that you would consider a “**** car” once removed still remain in my car AC, PS, ETC…so im in the clear there ..oh thank god!!!!!
Anyway let’s put an end to this. If you feel I was disrespectful to you in any way then I apologize, even though I can’t find any post that could be even be misconstrued as such, I thought we were engaged in a constructive discussion between two people pasionate about the FC's. Sometimes people take my humor too serious (like the hypothetical race I won) that was a just a joke and I was driving your S5 TII (with 100 more ft. lbs of pavement pounding torque) in that imaginary race, did I forget to mention that?….LMAO…(another joke)
Either way I have respectfully agreed to disagree.
#79
FC guy
iTrader: (8)
have you ignored the multiple times I had said that if you remove the TOP AND TOP MOTORS FROM A STREET DRIVEN vert it becomes a **** car? I ALREADY said that I should have been more clear with my **** comment because it was directed at that weight saving method.
Obviously if you remove interior and even more then that its really **** car.
Thats it, nothing else. And im done.
Obviously if you remove interior and even more then that its really **** car.
Thats it, nothing else. And im done.
#80
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, this is what you said:
"Removing enough weight from a street driven vert to get it to coupe weight leaves you with a **** car."
The reason you said it was because you were under the impression that you would need to remove alot of the car (including the top and motors) to do so, only to find out its a mere 16 pounds. It would not require you to remove the top or motors to get a stock S4 vert to the weight of a stock S5 TII. Not only that but my post which you responded to clearly indicated that it depended on the application among other factors. Dude a pair (two) of 2" aluminum wheel spacers weight 10 pounds to put this in perspective.
Now I will admit that a stock street driver S4 vert would be a "**** car" but it would also be over 200 pounds lighter then its S5 TII counter part.
Again...is this third time I have said this?? I respectfully agree to disagree!
"Removing enough weight from a street driven vert to get it to coupe weight leaves you with a **** car."
The reason you said it was because you were under the impression that you would need to remove alot of the car (including the top and motors) to do so, only to find out its a mere 16 pounds. It would not require you to remove the top or motors to get a stock S4 vert to the weight of a stock S5 TII. Not only that but my post which you responded to clearly indicated that it depended on the application among other factors. Dude a pair (two) of 2" aluminum wheel spacers weight 10 pounds to put this in perspective.
Now I will admit that a stock street driver S4 vert would be a "**** car" but it would also be over 200 pounds lighter then its S5 TII counter part.
Again...is this third time I have said this?? I respectfully agree to disagree!
#82
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Back on topic, I think you really should find a donor car..compare the price of the TII engine, trans,driveshaft, LSD, axles, among other interior parts/color you may be intersted in using to the cost of a middle of the road TII donor car, and this is exspecially true since you are infact rebuilding the engine, so it could have bad seals etc..and you take the whole car for a steel. I wish I would have just bought a donor car. I have seen people buy whole RX-7's on here for less then I paid for my new demister and defroster dash vents or my S5 window switch. I read that you didnt want the hastle of selling off the left over stuff from your swap.. I didnt either...I ended up trading the entire drivetrain for a mint VERT black interior minus the dash, seats and some other misc peices, not much stuff really. Anyway some of your statements make it seems like your cost conscious while others seem like you are willing to throw some serious coin into this car...which is it? In my opinion buy the donor car, tear them both down, sell what your not keeping from both to pay for your mods then put 1 perfect car back together. I paid over $3500.00 for my JDM full drivetrain, yes it had under 30,000 miles verified. Im betting you can find a S5 TII with a blown engine (who cares your rebuilding it either way!) for less.
#83
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I meant to say:
[QUOTE=88RXVERT;9138344]
Now I will admit that a stock street driver S4 vert WITHOUT THE TOP would be a "**** car" but it would also be over 200 pounds lighter then its S5 TII counter part. So in almost every other application the vert being the clear choice.[QUOTE]
[QUOTE=88RXVERT;9138344]
Now I will admit that a stock street driver S4 vert WITHOUT THE TOP would be a "**** car" but it would also be over 200 pounds lighter then its S5 TII counter part. So in almost every other application the vert being the clear choice.[QUOTE]
#88
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOW ROB...I have to admit..that is one of the cleanest and nicest engine bays I have ever laid eyes upon! I have pretty clean stock looking bay. Here is a pic…there have been some minor changes since the pic was taken... like a newer intercooler and more polishing, its still a work in progress. I have to give props where props are due!
#89
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OP..this is the kind of deal your looking for an entire TII donor car for $400.00-$1000.00 maybe this guy would sell it to you for a finders fee!!!!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/found-t2-front-end-damage-need-opinions-833797/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/found-t2-front-end-damage-need-opinions-833797/
#91
Back on topic, I think you really should find a donor car..compare the price of the TII engine, trans,driveshaft, LSD, axles, among other interior parts/color.....
OP..this is the kind of deal your looking for an entire TII donor car for $400.00-$1000.00 maybe this guy would sell it to you for a finders fee!!!!
OP..this is the kind of deal your looking for an entire TII donor car for $400.00-$1000.00 maybe this guy would sell it to you for a finders fee!!!!
As far as budget, yes I do have it, but I am also the type of person that likes to get the best bang for the buck instead of throwing it around blindly. Thats why I am so hesitant about some things at times
Thanks for that link, I PM'ed the guy. At the moment I am going to be moving in the next month so this would be something I am really looking forward to doing once I get that done if all goes well.
Rob xx 7, 88rxvert, rotary13b1: thanks for those pictures, you guys have very clean swaps.
Robxx7: did you end up powdercoating the UIM, throttle body and other engine components or was it painted some other method? I like what you did....
#92
I have another question also, I haven't looked into it much but did any of you guys end up running a piggy back such as an Rtek, SAFC, or a full blown EMS such as mega squirt with your swap?
I might have to post this elsewhere, but just wondering if you guys had any experience with any of these when you did your swap.
As it sits, I am familiar with the MS system personally, but from what I read the Rtek is a piggy back for the stock PCM. I can't find an official website for the Rtek, on top of that where to buy it. Anyone know where I can find it?
I might have to post this elsewhere, but just wondering if you guys had any experience with any of these when you did your swap.
As it sits, I am familiar with the MS system personally, but from what I read the Rtek is a piggy back for the stock PCM. I can't find an official website for the Rtek, on top of that where to buy it. Anyone know where I can find it?
#93
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
I have another question also, I haven't looked into it much but did any of you guys end up running a piggy back such as an Rtek, SAFC, or a full blown EMS such as mega squirt with your swap?
I might have to post this elsewhere, but just wondering if you guys had any experience with any of these when you did your swap.
As it sits, I am familiar with the MS system personally, but from what I read the Rtek is a piggy back for the stock PCM. I can't find an official website for the Rtek, on top of that where to buy it. Anyone know where I can find it?
I might have to post this elsewhere, but just wondering if you guys had any experience with any of these when you did your swap.
As it sits, I am familiar with the MS system personally, but from what I read the Rtek is a piggy back for the stock PCM. I can't find an official website for the Rtek, on top of that where to buy it. Anyone know where I can find it?
And since this turned into a TII vert picture thread :
#94
Also, did you guys end up adding any wire mesh or "filter" to the hood scoop in order to prevent debris from smashing your intercooler?
#95
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
Thanks for that link. Now that you guys showed your swap pictures, I was wondering how you guys were able to get the fins on the stock intercooler so straight, in particular RotaryRocket88's intercooler. The JDM engines I have looked at had them really bent and smashed? Did they come like this when you bought them or did you find a good condition one?
Also, did you guys end up adding any wire mesh or "filter" to the hood scoop in order to prevent debris from smashing your intercooler?
Also, did you guys end up adding any wire mesh or "filter" to the hood scoop in order to prevent debris from smashing your intercooler?
#96
FC guy
iTrader: (8)
the swaps on this page look like alot of time and care was taken, refereshing to see such attention being paid to not only the swap but the entire vehicle.
My parts are combo painted and coated, I knew I wanted similiar color wheels ( BBS RS-GTs ), and I wanted something different then all polished. Im still up in the air over the IC pipes but I have left them polished for now. One thing that does not jump out at you is the belt set up, ribbed belts using cosmo and FD pulleys along with a FD alternator and compressor- which ended up being alot of work to get it to line up and sit on the TII manual steering AC bracket, just getting the custom AC lines finished up tomoroww so I can put the car back together.
Im running a Wolf, currently upgrading to a V500 and taking the older unit out. I knew I wanted to have the capability to run any set up and have the tuning capability to do so. I eventually want a 400-450hp car and still may do a 13-BRE swap later on in life.
My parts are combo painted and coated, I knew I wanted similiar color wheels ( BBS RS-GTs ), and I wanted something different then all polished. Im still up in the air over the IC pipes but I have left them polished for now. One thing that does not jump out at you is the belt set up, ribbed belts using cosmo and FD pulleys along with a FD alternator and compressor- which ended up being alot of work to get it to line up and sit on the TII manual steering AC bracket, just getting the custom AC lines finished up tomoroww so I can put the car back together.
Im running a Wolf, currently upgrading to a V500 and taking the older unit out. I knew I wanted to have the capability to run any set up and have the tuning capability to do so. I eventually want a 400-450hp car and still may do a 13-BRE swap later on in life.
#97
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for that link. Now that you guys showed your swap pictures, I was wondering how you guys were able to get the fins on the stock intercooler so straight, in particular RotaryRocket88's intercooler. The JDM engines I have looked at had them really bent and smashed? Did they come like this when you bought them or did you find a good condition one?
Also, did you guys end up adding any wire mesh or "filter" to the hood scoop in order to prevent debris from smashing your intercooler?
Also, did you guys end up adding any wire mesh or "filter" to the hood scoop in order to prevent debris from smashing your intercooler?
#98
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Most of the used intercoolers you'll find (especially on j-spec engines) get beat to hell being transported around. The one I'm using was in OK shape (it's a US-spec intercooler. I threw away the trashed J-spec), but I spent a good couple hours bending all the fins back straight, cleaning, polishing & painting it. I've never had a problem with rocks getting into the scoop either; only bugs, leaves, etc...
EDIT: Never mind...I see it in the pic!
Last edited by 88RXVERT; 04-19-09 at 10:05 AM. Reason: looked at the damn picture harder...lol
#99
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
I have a few up for sale in the Parts for sale section, one is almost mint, I would say its comparible to the one in RR88's pic or better. I bought almost 30 intercoolers and I only found 2 that were in really good shape, one is a JSPEC and is on my car the other is US spec and its for sale right now.
I also find the text on the J-spec intercoolers annoying. "Rotary Turbo with Intercooler." Oh, good, glad you threw in that intercooler at the last minute, Mazda. It's like a bad translation that should have read "Intercooled Rotary Turbo." Just one of those things, I guess, haha.
And yes, I capped the ASV and AWS nipples on the back of the intercooler. I'll probably get them welded up at some point.
#100
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Better?! No way, there are exactly 0 bent fins on mine . I went to town with some tiny needle nose pliers and a flat blade screwdriver. And after respraying in black, it all looks new again.
I also find the text on the J-spec intercoolers annoying. "Rotary Turbo with Intercooler." Oh, good, glad you threw in that intercooler at the last minute, Mazda. It's like a bad translation that should have read "Intercooled Rotary Turbo." Just one of those things, I guess, haha.
And yes, I capped the ASV and AWS nipples on the back of the intercooler. I'll probably get them welded up at some point.
I also find the text on the J-spec intercoolers annoying. "Rotary Turbo with Intercooler." Oh, good, glad you threw in that intercooler at the last minute, Mazda. It's like a bad translation that should have read "Intercooled Rotary Turbo." Just one of those things, I guess, haha.
And yes, I capped the ASV and AWS nipples on the back of the intercooler. I'll probably get them welded up at some point.
I planned on doing just what you did, until I found a very nice JSPEC which I restored, coupled with the fact that the 91 Turbo FC3S was not called a TII, just
"Turbo" I know thats picky and ****..but
BTW, I fried the motor in my dremil polishing mine...