Turbo II power output
#1
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SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Turbo II power output
I've searched but didnt find exactly what I was looking for. Basically I've had an na and a turbo2 but the turbo 2 was already modded and had an aftermarket turbo. Couple of questions. Can the stock fuel system handle just basic mods intake, full exhaust, intercooler, boost controller and like 11-12psi? From what I've read most people limit the boost on the stock turbo to 12psi. What type of Dyno numbers are typical for the mods I mentioned above and like 11-12psi? How much extra power is picked up with a streetport?
#2
#5
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SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,698
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From: Jacksonville, FL
It's a stock turbo a previous car I had already had an aftermarket turbo and fuel system. That was kind of the point of the thread I don't know about the capabilities of the stock turbo and fuel system
#6
So it's two separate cars. Gotcha.
The guide posted above is fairly accurate. My own personal experience says the 10+ psi range is where the stock fuel system can no longer keep up. It's mostly the fuel pump's fault, as it does not flow well at high pressures. But the primary injectors also start maxing out before the 3800 RPM transition. The large boost spike you'll see in the 3-4K RPM range will be the reason. This can lead to a lean spot that is really in the worst possible location: peak torque. On my car, I have the secondaries set to come on at ~3200 RPM instead.
But as far as the turbo itself, 12psi is pretty much the consensus on what the limit is before you're not really making any more power. Besides, any boost above ~10 psi will only be in the 3-4K RPM range anyhow. It won't hold it to redline.
The guide posted above is fairly accurate. My own personal experience says the 10+ psi range is where the stock fuel system can no longer keep up. It's mostly the fuel pump's fault, as it does not flow well at high pressures. But the primary injectors also start maxing out before the 3800 RPM transition. The large boost spike you'll see in the 3-4K RPM range will be the reason. This can lead to a lean spot that is really in the worst possible location: peak torque. On my car, I have the secondaries set to come on at ~3200 RPM instead.
But as far as the turbo itself, 12psi is pretty much the consensus on what the limit is before you're not really making any more power. Besides, any boost above ~10 psi will only be in the 3-4K RPM range anyhow. It won't hold it to redline.
#7
Thread Starter
SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
So it's two separate cars. Gotcha.
The guide posted above is fairly accurate. My own personal experience says the 10+ psi range is where the stock fuel system can no longer keep up. It's mostly the fuel pump's fault, as it does not flow well at high pressures. But the primary injectors also start maxing out before the 3800 RPM transition. The large boost spike you'll see in the 3-4K RPM range will be the reason. This can lead to a lean spot that is really in the worst possible location: peak torque. On my car, I have the secondaries set to come on at ~3200 RPM instead.
But as far as the turbo itself, 12psi is pretty much the consensus on what the limit is before you're not really making any more power. Besides, any boost above ~10 psi will only be in the 3-4K RPM range anyhow. It won't hold it to redline.
The guide posted above is fairly accurate. My own personal experience says the 10+ psi range is where the stock fuel system can no longer keep up. It's mostly the fuel pump's fault, as it does not flow well at high pressures. But the primary injectors also start maxing out before the 3800 RPM transition. The large boost spike you'll see in the 3-4K RPM range will be the reason. This can lead to a lean spot that is really in the worst possible location: peak torque. On my car, I have the secondaries set to come on at ~3200 RPM instead.
But as far as the turbo itself, 12psi is pretty much the consensus on what the limit is before you're not really making any more power. Besides, any boost above ~10 psi will only be in the 3-4K RPM range anyhow. It won't hold it to redline.
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#8
You can just get the ECU chipped by pocketlogger. The Rtek 1.7 is $150 and is set to run 720cc secondaries. The transition point is also moved to 3500 RPM to help with the lean spot. Lots of other good stuff like removal of the fuel cut code too.
#9
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SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Jacksonville, FL
I'll have to read up on the rtek that's not a bad price at all. So all I would need is secondary 720's and a walboro and I'd be able to handle 12psi on the stocker right?
#10
That's the general formula for a cheap, but safe build. Although I'd suggest an FD fuel pump over a walbro. It won't overrun the stock FPR and lead to a rich idle like the walbro.
#11
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SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Is the fd pump similar to stock? You don't have to mod anything to hook it up do you?
#13
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SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Jacksonville, FL
#14
I believe 3rd gens run 800 injectors. So 300hp is a good estimate for what the pump can handle. Oh and they are a lot cheaper to get than a walboro
#15
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SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Jacksonville, FL
#16
Brand new ones can be had for around $200 at auto parts stores. Just make sure it's Denso brand. But you can get them in the 3rd gen classifieds for about $20 used. And the 300whp estimate is what I've found too. Some of the 3rd gen guys have gone higher than that even, but it seems to run out of steam if you're pushing over 1 bar of boost (14.7psi). The fuel pressure goes up, and the flow rate drops. Similar to what happens to the stock TII pump above stock boost levels.
#17
Thread Starter
SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,698
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Brand new ones can be had for around $200 at auto parts stores. Just make sure it's Denso brand. But you can get them in the 3rd gen classifieds for about $20 used. And the 300whp estimate is what I've found too. Some of the 3rd gen guys have gone higher than that even, but it seems to run out of steam if you're pushing over 1 bar of boost (14.7psi). The fuel pressure goes up, and the flow rate drops. Similar to what happens to the stock TII pump above stock boost levels.
#18
Also I got my pump for $30 shipped in the classified section.
#19
Thread Starter
SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,698
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From: Jacksonville, FL
I run a 550/720 injector combo, the Rtek 1.7 requires the 720cc secondaries. I don't know exactly how much boost it was at for 215hp, but I normally spike to 9-10 PSI. Rotary Performance won't let you drive it on the dyno.
Also I got my pump for $30 shipped in the classified section.
Also I got my pump for $30 shipped in the classified section.
#20
I love the Rtek! IMO its the best deal on the market for mildly modified Rx7's. check it out pocketlogger. I am pretty rich, getting in the 10.x and even 10.0 on the afr. I'm most likely in the 9's but the gauge only reads 10's.
I run a manual boost controler and a spring loaded relief valve to control spike.
I run a manual boost controler and a spring loaded relief valve to control spike.
#21
Thread Starter
SUPRAMAN
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
I love the Rtek! IMO its the best deal on the market for mildly modified Rx7's. check it out pocketlogger. I am pretty rich, getting in the 10.x and even 10.0 on the afr. I'm most likely in the 9's but the gauge only reads 10's.
I run a manual boost controler and a spring loaded relief valve to control spike.
I run a manual boost controler and a spring loaded relief valve to control spike.
#22
You can make your own MBC too. http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm. Simple, but very effective.
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