The timing is supposed to retard under boost.
Maybe an aftermarket computer would help you out in this situation. If the turbo wasn't gettting enouph to oil to the point that it is glowing that it would have roasted already. It is possible to have a injector that does not atomize the fuel correctly and have a leaner running rotor. It is very easy to take your injectors for granted that they are flowing correctly, but if they aren't, than you'll be seeing some interesting effect to the internals of the engine when it finnaly is leaned out enouph. It in your fuel delivery or the timing.

 

LMAO! OK buddy...try to know what you are talking about BEFORE posting next time.

-Joe

 

Well at 1k rpm it is at 5-6degrees so it's pretty damn close to stock timing.

I put the stock oil inlet line on and it smoked to kingdom come due to too much pressure.
So I have pretty mcuh rulde them out.

Like I said above my fuel rail is seeing 45psi at idle/driving. The fuel rail is Jspec and I have no idea of it's working condition previous to me installing it. I'm guessing the Walbro is over powering the FPR.

It should be down close to 28psi.

I need some pro's to chime in on what I can do.
If needed I can go to a junk yard today and pull an NA rail setup then go get a rising rate FPR.

I just want some one to confirm this is the problem.

 

This would also help explain why the car jumps/bogs when the secondaries kick on and make it hard to rev higher.

It starts to really dump some fuel in at that point.

 

now on a Aspec S5 fuel rail.

Is the FPD on the primary or secondary?

Also since this is a weird Jspec....
Would the car even run if I put the fuel lines on backwards??

 

Update.
I drove it a little bit.
The car stumbles a lot through 2nd/3rd gear(load and probably too much fuel)

In first it seems to be ok.

The car is running 45psi constant right now and I have even taken the FPR line and blown/sucked through it to create variable rates and it doesn't change more than a .2psi.

So I am looking at getting a S4 secondary rail and a AEM rising rate regulator.

I won't go to parrallel fuel rail right now but maybe later on.

Can some one confirm if a NA fuel rail will work on a TII? I will be using it plus the banjo bolt but the rest goes to the new FPR.

 

well for those who want to know.

A S4 NA rail does not bolt up to a S5 TII LIM.

I just wasted 30 minutes ripping a NA apart to find this out

 

WTF!!??????

OK I just got a secondary fuel rail put in with a different FPR.

The pressure gauage still shows 45psi! WTF?

I'm desperate here guys.
This is my daily driver and I've been borrowing cars for the last 8 months!!!

 

Damn Digi, you got another book going here, lol...

Go to radio shack, and get you a variable resistor (like the lighting dimmers we have in our homes), and install that sucker temporarily inline on your power wire going to your fuel pump (at the strut tower connector would be a good spot). Now, start her up, and see if tweaking the pump inlet voltage down reduces your fuel pressure back to "normal" levels. If so, you need a better FPR, one that won't be overpowered by the Walbro. As long as you don't go crazy with the car, you can leave the resistor as is for now, to get back & forth to work, until you can find a good FPR for your setup...If you have a cabin fuel pressure gauge, or an A/F ratio gauge, keep an eye on 'em with the resistor on there...

 

I still have my NA fuel pump.

I'm almost tempted to put it back in as a test variable.

One thought.

My fuel pressure guage is located ohn the inlet line before the FPR. Woul d this cause me to see diofferent pressures than actual rail rates?

I really don't want to go buy a 200 dollar FPR right now.

 

My fuel pressure guage is located on the inlet line before the FPR. Would this cause me to see different pressures than actual rail rates?

 

OK new update.

I restabbed timing and some how got exactly dead on or damn near close to it.

The car started to smoke a LOT.

It almost sounded like the rear rotor wasn't firing again(helicopter sound) but it rev'd and drove fine with no hesitation.

It NEVER did this before. It didn't really smell like oil either(turbo possibility if it did)

I drove it aroud the nieghborhood to give it the 10 minute low load test and came back.
The turbo wasn't glowing. It even idled at 800 rpm.

But the smoking came back a little.

I got my Rtek today as well so I installed that after the test run.
I'll give it a test run tomorrow to hopefully see how it does during the day(night now so hard to see things)

 

Might Be Restricted Exuast ,maybe Clogged Catty Converter

 

Nope.
I have Racingbeat downpipe,presilencer,and Corksport single.

I have a VERY high flow exhaust.

 

I KNEW the timing was jacked!!!

 

If you have a somewhat "American" setup with the FPR at the end of the rail runs, that should be a good spot for your pressure gauge...Are you doing anything funky with the flow directions? Did you try to remove the vac reference from the FPR to see if that changed the pressures any?

 

Well it looks like my fuel setup is A-spec(weird Jspec to begin with).

I didn't have a ride to work today so I drive it 32 miles so far.

Hasn't caught fire or glowed yet so It's not too bad.

At idle the car starts to smoke a lot. It continuously builds up smoke too. I rev it a bit and it goes away.

I've removed the FPR reference and stuff and it did nothing.
Switch to remove the FOR solenoiud and go right from the LIM. Nothing.

Hmm. Maybe I'll check the LIM source. Maybe it's clogged or something.

 

Rebuilds do smoke alot. I think you should see if it's still smoking at say 500 miles on the rebuild, and so-forth.

I'm running almost the exact same setup (except i've got a stock s4 t2 motor). I'm curious as to how you made your restrictor line... I have a feeling i'll need to make something similar.

 

I'm at about 410 miles so far. Another day and I'll be at 500 miles.

I pulled the plugs and they had about 2mm of thick black crap on them.
Me and my bud are thinking the OMP is bad since the turbo is rebuilt and the carbon seal shouldn't have ruptured or I would be getting lots of smoke out the back of the turbo first.

I am going to disconnect the OMP rod from the TB and run some premix to see if it stops smoking this weekend. If it doesn't fix the prob then I am competely stumped.

I made my restrictor line by replacing the little wierd angled connector on the top of the engine.
I kept the long run over the block.
I got some adapter to mate to the threads on the over the block pipe.
Then used 3an stainless line to a restrictor (aka a 3an to like 5/116th adapter or something)
This then goes to a cnc machined adapter plate which bolts onto the turbo like stock.

 

BTW: I heard someone say you couldn't remove the restrictor pill out of our turbo? (I heard that was the problem you were having awhile ago, I was also having a similar problem from a specific rebuilder that will remain nameless at this time until I can try out the re-re-built turbo in my car).

 

My rebuilder removed it from mine.

he told me that you can't reinstall them.
He pretty much had to destroy it to remove it.

This let the high stock psi flood in and made the car smoke like no other. It never went through the front seal though. Only our the nonsealed back and into the exhaust.