Luke_Tech

got a question? been researching this for the past 3 days and can't figure anything out. i put a engine in my car out of my old GTU and i got it to start, but it would hit 2500 rpm and then die messed with the tps, high idle screws, timing, etc. but i can't figure it out. no i can't even get it to start it just keeps flooding? any idea what to look for next?

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

I dunno....maybe a fried ECU?? That would be my guess...

One of the gurus might be able to answer your question better than me...

Luke_Tech

thats what i'm waitin to hear, i'm tryin to get my car done before this weekend for rotory revolution, but the way its lookin i don't think thats going to happen

MARTIN

THe most fundamental thing to do when an engine refuses to start, is to do a compression test...So try that and post the numbers. You might find your answer. Another thing I could immediately think of is the afm, or injectors... IF you have an 88 or newer you should have high imp. injectors...

Whizbang

there is a good chance you have a faulty injector around somehwheres. recheck your connections for sensors and vac lines. but first do compression check.

Luke_Tech

well i can get it to half *** fire, can someone tell me how exactly how to set the timing, tps, and idle air screw on a s5 with out it running to where it will be close. i got the tps set with my ohm meter so i think thats good just wondering really bout the other stuff. and i'm running a racing beat e-shaft pully and it has 4 marks on it? whats what?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Well.. Lets look at the other possibilities.

This SOUNDS like an AFM issue. You know where the fuel pump check connector is? Jumper that and then start the car. Post your results.

Rat

Luke_Tech

no man i don't recall that connector, sorry man

Luke_Tech

ok i got it all figured out now, it runns but won't idle, and trying to accelerate its very hesitate, i'm thinkin tps i measured the resistance and it 6300 ohm, bad tps? or is it something else

Whitewidebodyrx7

yo luke james was having the same problem the other day when he pulled his mani off to do emissions...he forgot to RTV one of his block off plates( i think it was the EGR plate) so it would fire up every once in a while and only idle above 3g derek resealed it and it worked out alright

Luke_Tech

i'll try that, thanks man. i'll keep progress posted

Luke_Tech

isn't the tps suppose to read between 4-6k ohm at WOT? mines reading 6300?

WAYNE88N/A

Is the meter calibrated?

What does it read at the ECU at idle on a hot engine? THAT'S the number you should be worried about...

Luke_Tech

thats not it man i went through all my block offs and made sure everything was sealed good and it still does it, any other idea's

Luke_Tech

did that and still the same??? anything else?

RX*TooNER

Can you keep the car running if you hold the throttle open?

WAYNE88N/A

I'd be checking out evrything down at the ECU by now to see if all of the inputs are in the ballpark (including TPS). But that's just me.

I'd be rechecking everything again for that vac leak too

How well is the CAS eyeballed?

Luke_Tech

well, i set it at 1k ohm when the motor was cold.

i'll check this out in the morning, i'm gonna go pick up a tps from a friend just so i have it just in case

WAYNE88N/A

If the fast-idle cam was not in the "hot" position, the TPS probably isn't set right. In other words, when the engine's cold, the TPS plunger is further in than it would be if the engine's hot, which is going to skew the voltage or resistance numbers.

I don't have exact figures because I've never checked it cold, but I would guess that you'd get around 1.5k to 2k ohms on a cold engine. You could always try tweaking it somewhere around that to see if it helps. Just remember where you started, so you can tweak it back if needed...

Luke_Tech

all i know is i have 3 screw on the TB that can be adjusted (keep in mind i have the S5 TB, it has the dual TPS sensor):
*1 on the front side of the motor (which i have been using to adjust the TPS)
*1 on top (which i think is the fast idle, correct me if i'm wrong)
*1 on the back side of the TB( what does this one do?

WAYNE88N/A

Hmm, an S5 guru is going to have to chime in, then. Off the cuff, I'd say tweak on the one that makes the TPS resistances change

Luke_Tech

Help Me Please!!!

theflatlander

iTrader: (3)

might want to check the coolant thermal sensor in the water pump housing iof it's not connectoed or bad it'll cause massive hesitation/ no idle etc.

Luke_Tech

What If I Don't Even Have The Radiator Or Anything In It Yet? Will That Cause It To Do The Same?

Luke_Tech

Bump