Tech_Greek

Alright, so when I installed the supercharger, I began slipping and slidding going into second gear at WOT.

Now that I pretty much straight piped the exhaust and have the (CRAP!) pace setter header on I have a problem - every time I punch it in first gear at no matter what RPM or mph (ie to pull out in traffic) I keep spinning until I let off.

The tires are crap, so I was wondering, what tires are the best, I've been a big Yokohama fan for a long time but wanted to wait till I got new rims.

Also is there any thing to do just in case new tires don't solve the problem? Like reinforcing parts of the engine and diff to make sure they dont flex or anything like that.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

There you go! In my SE I had alot of traction issues when I had crappy tires. Then I figured out how to drive !


But anyhow,

Some good/wider tires will be fine. Since I doubt you're making so much power that the car can't keep it under control (like most V8 guys). I'de also look into wider rims (FD rims can be found cheap, 16x8, a spacer is needed).

If that somehow doesn't fix it, I suggest a new suspension in the back at least.

Black91n/a

This post really belongs in the suspension/wheels/tires/brakes section.

Bigger and better tires should help you a lot. I don't really know about anything else, but I wouldn't say there's any danger to any particular component from wheelspin.

Tech_Greek

Yes, but a lot of this stuff is pertaining to the second gen as in I have DTSS still, etc.

I planned on getting new springs Friday (tein).

I want to get bigger rims, but they are close to $300/peice

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

hahaha.........hmmm have you ever tried turning your wheels by hand while the vehicle is stopped? its kinda hard if you couldn't guess. Now imagine that same amount of force being applied to the teeth in the diff, the ball bearings in your CV joints (half shafts) the unjoints in your drive shaft, the flywheel, friction plate and pressure plate respectively.

and thats NOT hard on them???????????

I will grant you this....you are correct in saying there is no danger to a PARTICULAR component..............there is however dange to EVERY component in the driveline


anyways - toyo proxes are a nice sticky rubber.....and as mentioned wider rims will help

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

wheel spin is easier on the drivetrain components that the tires grabbing. *shrug*

get some Azenis, fill up the wheel well(i believe you can stuff 275's in the rear depending on the hieght of the tire) and make sure your LSD(if you have one) is not slipping, tires make a world of difference.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I run Yokohama ES-100s. Love them!

ilike2eatricers

I had those and thought they were good untill I moved onto toyo T1S and thought those were good until I tracked them and realized the sidewalls were too soft. Next step probably some BFG KDs.

snub disphenoid

If you're on stock wheels, you can run 205/60/15, which with better compound tires like Yokohama AVS ES-100s ($78 apiece) or BFG G-Force Sports ($61 apiece) should take care of traction issues. Also, if you want to keep stock wheels and absolutely eliminate traction problems, get some drag radials, either 205 or 225s.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

The rear subframe mounting point for the diff is junk reinforce that, I'm going to see if mine lasts this year if is doesn't I'm getting the welder out.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean is junk? How so? This is something I need to know since I am at the part in my rebuild where I replace/rebuild everything in the rear and front suspension.

Thanks

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Meaning the mount breaks off. Lots of people have done it.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

yeah I would say thats junk... I mean **** where were you keeping that thing at the bottom of the ocean to get that kinda rust on it. Here I thought my car was bad with a couple rust spots that need fixing and a whole the size of my hand in the floor by the drivers seat... I don't have even close to that kinda rust on my parts I pulled out yesturday... I can only imagine what your car underneath looks like...

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Man one word.......... CANADA 374000 km's

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

haha ohh god.... yeah ive broken the bracket off the subframe one two seperate frames, ended up welding one BEEFY bracket on there, sold the car thouhg, but havnt heard any problems from him! and i know he abuses it

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

what causes it to break, is it just because of the torque/power/running it hard? or weakness in the metal or sombos of everything? Because this is not a problem I want in the future not with the work I am doing on it now.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Likely wheel hop. Caused my sloppy bushings.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

am ordering new ones very soon and as well as every other bushing in the car, which is wither an energy suspension bushing or whatever the Atkins guy can hook me up with... he told me that the differential ones he sells are hardened race bushings, but a couple of them will be OEM from mazda. I said whatever, as long as they are new and not going to create a problem.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Well if you look closely in my pic you can see I welded the diff mount.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

well i have mitsubishi evo 8 wheels on my 87 fc and they are great with falken azenis 245-45-17 i needed a spacer all the way around due to the wheel wanting to rub on my springs but traction was great and im selling them for 450 in your interested or any one interested 450 plus shipping to whereever im in tennessee

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Actually, stock on 16 inch wheels is 205/55/16, and you can run 225/50/16s with no problem. As for tires, for regular street driving I highly recommend Toyo T1-S's. They have great grip and are amazing in the wet. I don't know about the weak sidewalls because I've never raced with them, but I've never had a problem with on some pretty serious back-road driving.
Also, I bet the diff breaking has something to do with the rust. The previous owner raced it a lot with R-compound tires and never had a problem with the diff mounts.

Black91n/a

There are some options for cheap wheels. The 17x8 Mustang GT wheels fit perfectly, are about as big as you can possibly go in the front and are relatively cheap and not hard to find used. For tires you can use a 225/45/17 and it' fits perfectly. You can probably run 245's in the back with these wheels too. For tires, be sure to get good ones, but that doesn't mean they have to be expensive. The Kumho MX is an excellent tire and it's pretty cheap compared to a lot of others.

I wouldn't bother with the springs, unless you really want to lower it. To help prevent wheel hop, which is very bad for the driveline and suspension, get better (stiffer) bushings and new shocks. Replacing the old worn out shocks with newer, stiffer ones will help keep the wheel hop down, reducing driveline stress.

SureShot

Don't overlook tire pressure.
The rears are negative cambered, so if tire pressure is on the high side, the footprint is reduced & most of the contact force is on the inside edge of the tread.
Drop the pressure about 5 lbs & see if you get more forward bite.

It sounds like you "got torque"

Tech_Greek

Tires are at 30 PSI cold.

I went racing last night with an S2000, the runs that I got any decent launchs on I won but the launchs that I spun them to freaking high rpms I did horrible and he had me by a car length up to 100 MPH the whole time.

I was battling some other issues with my FPR and belt as well that night.

I got a LOT of wheel hop last night on launch...

SureShot

Try 26 PSI, launch easier, nail 2nd earlier (maybe under 5K), and let that Camden do the grunt pull.

Ain't it great what cool air does for boost!