Gene

iTrader: (1)

Just got back from a great NASA event at Summit Point, my DE/street car ran flawlessly all weekend, but like any track car it needs some improvements. What have you guys got on your lists for the winter? My shortlist:

Replace whole rear suspension with the spare set I have (something is bent from a previous owner mishap and I have to set my independent camber adjusters totally opposite in order to get even camber on both sides. I also have AWR spherical bearings, toe links, etc, and a set of MMR delrin subframe and diff bushings.

For the front suspension I have a set of S4 control arms with the removable ball joints that I need to put on.

Need to put new bearings into the spare set of front hubs I have.

V-mount intercooler and 3rd gen UIM, re-tune for a couple more pounds of boost (currently 8)

Proper ducting for IC, radiator, oil cooler.

Brake ducts! I cook the hell out of my brakes at the track.

Transmission is shot, I have a spare that needs to get rebuilt and installed. Perhaps a new clutch while that's being done, it needs inspection.

Replace oozing turbo oil return line.

Replace all coolant hoses, they're in decent shape, but they are cheap and should be replaced out of general principle on a track car.

Rebuild brake calipers.

wvumtnbkr

Well,

I am going to step up my brake pads from the Hp+'s in the front and stock in the rear (going to black in the front and HP+'s in teh rear).

I am in the process of changing out all of my suspension bushings and putting in adjustable struts and spring perches.

Last, I am going to fix my water leak from the LIM. Hope to have this finished in the next month!

Rexpelagi

I'm actually looking to get into non-dragstrig track trips this coming season. I'm trying to get the car ready for autocross mostly and maybe a few trips to road courses.

I'm in the process of swapping over to a TII rear end, which now has MMR bushings on everything except the DTSS. I think I may try DTSS for a little bit and see what I think. I had to get the replacment spindles and *allegedly* they only have 40k on them.

I'm also putting MMR bushings in the front, as well as replacing the rotors and pads (going to HP+) on all 4 corners. I am planning to go to a better brake fluid instead of the generic autozone stuff.

To finish it off the performance stuff, I'm planning to go with Koni Yellows and a Ground Control setup on all corners. I'm looking at 525 lbs in the front and 375 lbs in the rear for rates.

I also need to clean up the engine bay because I have wires everywhere and it's ugly as hell.

BlkBullitt

Either selling the Bullitt or keeping it in storage.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

paint and tuned for boost

93rx74lyfe

iTrader: (1)

Paint and maby switching my BNR Stage 3 for a GT35R.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, get rid of the DTSS. You can't really "try" it though, you'll wreck the old bushings getting them out.

If you've never been to a road course before the HP+ will be ok, but as you improve they will become inadequate in a hurry. Motul 600 is my brake fluid of choice, it has a higher wet boiling temp than anything besides Castrol SRF (which costs $Texas) and a very high dry point.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

How much do you want for the BNR?

MazdaGirlFC

Hopefully a nice new paint job.

Also do rear suspension. Out of a list of hundreds of things to do of course.

Rexpelagi

The spindles I had to go to are the ones with the possibly good DTSS bushings, so I meant that I would probably leave them alone and see how they do. I snapped off my brake caliper bolts in the original spindles and then snapped hardened steel easy-outs in them, so I figured it wasn't worth my effort to keep them. It really was a bit of fiasco...

Thanks for the suggestion on the fluid.

http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml

^I was considering the first one on their list, based partially on price. Maybe I will have to consider running the type you mentioned.

I wanted a pad that would be ok for street use also, so that led me to the HP+, but I figured I might have the need for a better pad at some point.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

The ATE super blue and Type 200 are pretty popular as well. The motul has higher dry and wet boiling points, and doesn't cost THAT much more really in the scope of a yearly budget, because you're probably going to use 2 bottles at the beginning of the season to flush out, and a couple more at most doing bleeds before each event. I also like the fact that the motul comes in the 1/2 liter bottles. Once you open a bottle it goes bad after a time, probably faster than you'll consume an entire 1L.

Also Pegasus has a much better price on it:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...?Product=MT600

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

In no particular order:

-15x10s with 275/35 Hoosiers, probably gonna need a tire trailer too, which means I'll need a hitch

-Finally put hybrid turbo in with an RTek 1.8, gonna try to do AN- lines for at least the oil feed and return

-Longer wheel studs

-V mount? I've been saying this for a year or 2 now, but since the car is gonna be down I might actually have time to fit/design it

-Paint the red interior on my manual doors, pull sunroof motor and rear wiper. Hoping to lose 40 lbs total which would get me down to ~2600 with a half tank of gas.

-Ditch my 375/275 ERS for some 550/450 hypercoils.

If 1/2 of this gets done over the 5 weeks I have off this winter, I'll be a very happy man.

rotaryracer1

iTrader: (1)

i will be doing a FMIC with sheet aluminum ducting for airflow into radiator and intercooler. also converting car back to emissions compliant, adding the rats nest and acv along with bac valve and all others that was removed. porting wastegate and dividing the downpipe for individual flow for wategate hole and turbine hole